Yea, I get it. But here's what some of our brothers said about Taurus fans....... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-taurus-cooling-fan-wow.486504/
And here's what the Mustang guys found: http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/989215-3-8-taurus-mk8-fan-amps.html There's a CFM graph.
I will trust the judgement of the makers of a quarter-million-dollar supercar, over that over those who made a crappy mass-market grocery-getter, known for poor quality fit, finish, appearance and performance, 20-odd years ago. I am not ever going to build a car around a junkyard electric fan that cannot easily be replaced. Electric fans are a wear item, an as such should be a easily obtained commodity. There is a time and a place for junkyard parts, and this ain't it.
Do and trust what and who you like. I tend to pay attention to real world results. Shit, man, a fan isn't really this guys problem.. It's probably a timing issue... among a few other related issues. By the way, the cup holders in those $250,000 cars, are made of plastic and ain't worth a damn. Just kidding. They don't come with 'em.
Sorry Gimpy, the Toyota Camry dual electric fans in my 63 Chevy has been doing the job for over ten years for a cost of $25. Gary
I would at least confirm the actual temperature it's reaching first. There is a chance there may not even be a problem.
The way it gurgles inside the radiator and hoses makes me believe its running hot, as the gauge indicates.
Is it boiling over or pushing coolant out of the over flow? What pressure cap are you running? Are you sure you have bled all the air out of the system? "Gurgling" doesn't necessarily mean its overheating. Pushing coolant out usually does though.
If it runs long enough, temp. will sneak up there, not especially fast, it will then push coolant out, and into the overflow container. Radiator is a four row Superior, T/stat is 180*, cap is a 7 lb., pusher fan is a T/stat controlled 12". I have run the engine today (parked), with radiator cap off, got temp. to "normal range", saw water circulate inside radiator neck, then shut engine off. That was several hours ago, have not put cap back on yet. Perhaps the system did have air in it, don't know, but it should have burped by now, I would think.
Easy enough to check if it's fan related, use, or borrow a house fan/shop fan whatever and blow it through the grille. See if that solves or helps the problem. I have an HVAC shop around the corner and I got some used squirrel cage fans from them, make great shop fans.
AS Tfeverfred mentioned few times, get or at least check out the Ford Taurus fans. Good stuff and cheap
7 psi cap is too low for a modern radiator. You should put at least 12psi cap on it or higher. It will increase the boiling temp about 3* for each 1 psi higher the cap is. Some times it can be hard to get all the air out of them too. but it sounds like if it is getting hot it's not terribly bad. A bigger or better flowing fan certainly won't hurt but I'd try to get it set up for a puller rather than a pusher if you can.
They've already mentioned the possibility of bad timing or advances (which would be the first thing I'd check), and I'm wondering about that pump. If it's a high flow, is it collapsing the lower rad hose at speed? Is there a supporting spring wire in that hose? If it's not a new pump with the rebuild, what shape is the impeller in? Could just be worn out and not moving enough coolant. Any chance someone got the wrong pump and it's spinning backwards?
lots of good info but lets go to the basics first, with that radiator a 12in is to small a 15 or 16in would serve you better but size is only one part of the equation, 1. cfm of the fan 2. amp draw and 3. is your electrical system able to support the draw it looks like you have an alternator and ever a low amp alt should be fine but double check out put anyway. 40 amp and up would be fine. defiantly set it ''fan'' up with a relay you can find them at summit.jegs.fleabay. ect ect. or if you are electrically inclined you can make your own set up, or use the one in place now if its set up with a relay. Russco said a higher pressure cap is needed but is the heater core original or is one in use at all? if there is a core in play a 12psi would be fine but any higher might be an issue. like mentioned before timing might be an issue also i run my 235 at 5 degrees advanced and my stock engine responds very well. this all may sound like allot to do but you can handle it just go 1 step at a time and you will solve it. jeff
Look at the avatar closely. There is currently 3/4" of one inch of free space between water pump pulley and radiator. Even if I did move radiator forward, I don't believe the would be enough to fit the puller. The 4 row Superior radiator is more than needed, too thick. Changing to a 12 lb cap can be done. Temp. will continue to climb and climb, not fast, but will peg the factory gauge, if driven long enough. I would consider a standard thickness radiator, with the factory 4 bladed fan. Engine was run yesterday, with cap off, am hoping air is out, but have not worked with car today.
Yes, timing has been checked this week, it is 6* BTDC. Being a late model 1961 / 235, it has the Patricks short pump. Spoke to Patrick several months ago. Without question, he supplied another water pump. Lower hose can be purchased with or without support spring, this one has the spring inside. Watching water level and water flow in radiator, with cap off, water is moving.
Jeff, When I bought this car from the estate of my late friend, a 3 ring notebook, filled with receipts, came with the car. I do not have any info on the fan, but would look at the receipt, then find the fan online, for fan details. I'll do that, but just looking at the fan, it doesn't seem to have much power. Also checked that the fan was "pushing' into the radiator, instead of blowing back, to the grille. Working in correct direction. The heater core is there, in place and functioning. In addition, the core is new, not a clean and flush unit. I have that receipt, as well. I have receipt for alternator, will look at specs for alt., as well. Replied to timing, on a previous post. 6*BTDC.
Yes, if idling or driving, temp continues to climb, at a steady, but not fast rate. Pusher fan is t/stat controlled. It comes on, but not helpful. To review, below is my first post. "I have a '51 Chevy with a modified '61 235, see avatar pic. Radiator is a Superior 4 row. Electric fan is a TWELVE INCH pusher, thermostatically controlled. I have not done ANY of the above work myself, the car belonged to my buddy, until his passing. I am now the caretaker, need some fan info. Water temp. increases, as you would expect, BUT the fan does not seem to be able to hold the water temp. at a steady level / temp. .......... temp continues to rise, if driving at lower speeds, or when at idle. Is the twelve inch fan too small for this radiator ? Is the thermostatically controlled fan a good idea, or should I have a constantly running fan? IF there was a standard radiator mounted, I could have room for the stock fan, but that is not the case now, with the 4 row Superior radiator. Engine does have the Patricks short water pump. Any help is appreciated." Thanks.
I have not read all of the previous suggestions, but my 2c. Verify the water temp with another gauge. Just to be sure you have an overheating problem Determine what temp the fan cuts on. Perhaps a lower cut in temp would help. Where is the fan control thermostat located? This should be in the intake where the water will be hottest. Could you put a shroud in front of the radiator? The fan as it is now, will block air flow. If a fan is installed in a shroud, then all of the air entering the opening will go through the radiator. It is reverse of a water pump mounted fan, but I think the idea has merit. I also believe that a fan mounted on the radiator will not cool as well as one mounted away from the radiator surface.
Remember the overheating Rule of Thumb. Runs hot at highway speed, not enough radiator. Runs hot at slow speed, not enough fan. Relying on just a pusher fan will not cut it. Gary
An update, of sorts. Getting back to the high water temps, I drove the car 25 / 35 mph, until the factory gauge reached the 3/4 mark, stopped, opened the hood to see the small 12" fan working away. Drove back home, then, with the engine running, I placed a high speed, vertically mounted floor fan in front of the grille / radiator. The temp gauge moved back to midway point on the factory gauge. I'll look to get a larger fan, still has to be a pusher though, no room for a puller.
Did you ever get this squared away? I bought one of the adapter plates for my '58 235 I'm putting in my '51 but, I'd really like to use a '58 water pump since it's made for it
See if you can get the CFM rating on the 12" fan, I feel it is too small to work alone. Maybe a single 16" or two 12" fans would cool it better.
Gimpyshotrods answered a question that's been nagging me for quite some time. "Run the biggest one you can fit in there. even if you attach it to the sheet metal past the radiator, and the blades go a little past the edge of the core." Yes, I found this using the SEARCH engine and the Thread is old as hell. Thanks, Gimpyshotrods. Now I can order a 16" Spal and not worry that the blades go past the core. You guys can't piss and moan, "Use the search engine." HAhAHa
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