Technical ***March 2017 Banger Meet - The Luck of the 4 Banger***

John, sorry if I am stating the obvious, they are saying that they removed the impulse because it would break or damage the drive or just wear it out prematurely? I was/am planning on "spinning it up" but most likely won't remove the impulse as I am only using it on this motor for one weekend.

 

I do think that view is "Traditional"

 

Yes, that was the thought. The dist/oil pump drive is pretty delicate. IMHO, it is fine for distributor, no load/torque requirement.
I sometimes wonder if it is also a reason to limit the oil pressure on a pressure fed motor. The "washing out" of babbit is hard to believe unless the oil is not filtered properly.
If the Top section breaks, you will know immediately, if the Bottom section breaks you will know eventually.

BTW, in my little world of Model A's, I am happy just to have it run decently once in a weekend. The second run is always a little on the edgy side of making a full p***.

J

 

mags are to much h***le unless you just got to have one

 

Funny I think the same thing about electronics.

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that's why we BOTH have cars ............

 

And I have your Mag!

What distributor are you using with the fs?
One of Bubba's?


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yes I knew that when you said the purple paint was the problem . fs from fs , self advance . love it

 

Hi guys.
I picked up an A banger recently - good long motor, no lip in the bores, hopefully it will be a re-ringer and off I go.

Problem is I don't have a flywheel.

A friend of mine told me that a pre-40 V8 flywheel can be modified to suit.

As I have to run a 9" V8 clutch setup, I could see this a way of killing two birds with the one stone.

Trouble is - I cannot find any information regarding this setup.

Does this swap exist in the real world? If so, can anyone direct me to a website that details the process?

Thanks in advance.

 

"A" flywheels should not be hard to find

 

Mark,
I know it is probably hard to find an A flywheel in Australia, but it might be easier then the V-8 conversion.

Just Plain Bill here on the HAMB did a tech how to on the conversion once. You might want to search his posts to find it.

If you run out of options, I have a flywheels you can have, but it might be a little expensive to ship.

.

 

I like points. Stock A set up in one car and Mallory in the other. No Mag to fiddle with or electronics to burn out. The stock car is going to get a B dizzy one day though

 

Well, I ran a Wico on the street on an A engine. It was my daily driver. I didn't find out until years later when I tore it down that the cam bearings were chrome plated. I never had a problem with the mag. I still have that mag. It still has a hot spark. I bought it from a guy for $30 in1958. I have that same cam but now it is a fresh J Brierley SU1R regrind. It is going into a street engine for the RPU. Running the Wico on the street was no biggee in those 55 MPH speed limit days. Now, though, I'm using B distributors with lighter springs. Street and strip! See you at the Antique Nationals I hope !!
55MPH was just under 2500 RPM's Ithink

 

Thanks Dan, I do have a drop-off point in Stanton for shipping to Australia, but I hope that that won't be necessary.

 

Went to Fredericia swap meet this morning, and bought (a**** other things) an A head, which did not have any markings on it, but with combustion chambers similar to those on my B head. Is this a so called Police head, or are those not with a B casted into the upper surface?
Left to right: B, new, original A.


Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr

 

Sure looks like a police head. Remember to use the correct head gasket for it, if you use it
I've not seen one without a B mark but that doesn't mean anything.

 

Didn't get the motor fired up today lots of little stuff to ****on up before attempting. No spark from the mag and ran out of time to really get into it as my plan to have a remote starter switch didn't pan out and using the stock foot starter was a pain. So next weekend I will have a 32 distributor on stand by in case I can't trouble shoot the mag. Had spark when spinning it by hand off the motor and the points are good so I'm thinking the condenser.



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The cylinder head on my A has similar combustion chamber shape. No markings whatsoever. I did somehow miss that the bottom end is a Diamond block with a May of '36 cast date. Don't know how I missed that. Finding the diamond info made me think that in addition to the other diamond block differences, perhaps later replacement heads were of this design. Nothing to back it up, just thinking out loud.

 

My buddy, now gone, and I used to run "police" heads, and grind the letter designation off the top carefully, and I would take as much off the gasket surface as I thought I dared on my planer Never give your speed secrets away mentality,
We found the "holy grail" however in the Winfield "crow'sfoot" , also cut to raise the compression.

Herb

 

Does anyone have a recommendation as to model / size etc of an SU side draft carb that could be paired up and used on a B' engine? What should I look for out there..... Thanks

 

HS6 Is the SU off old Austin Healy 6

But what a fiddle with so many springs and needles to choose from. I would use a red spring and ATF in the pot. If you don't have a tool to center the jet FORGET IT

Take the pot off and look down into the jet's center. If you blow into it from above the fuel should bounce up and down without coming out over the stage.

You'll also have more luck with a "Gross-jet" than the standard needle and seat

You should lift the pot a little with something that doesn't block airflow. The pot needs to raise freely and drop. DON'T BEND THE NEEDLE!

Once correct the idle speed will rise up a second and then drop back

Sorry I'm rambling but it's all from memory...... since I can just, almost, see what I'm writing.

Friday we start the treatments on my right eye. I will be months before we know if any of this has worked

If you want to run a pair of SUs I'd get a set from a 4 cylinder Healy or better yet a Prewar Bentley 3ltr There are bronze ones out there that look very vintage and they might have close needles.

Be ready to find a way to heat them. They might ice on you.

Like I said you will have a lot of fiddling to do.

 

Bluto, I have a pair of SU's that came from a slant sided head, I can't remember the number but they have an 1 3/4' throat. Do you remember what the angle is? Jag comes to mind.
Thanks
Bill

 

Don't want to argue with buddy Bluto, But I have found SU's rather easy to tune. Might be that if you are trying to get that last half pound on the dyno scale, you might need all those needles with their myriad taper combinations, but I have managed quite well , thank you, with sanding needles down, when indicated. Even have made a few. Figure out what the diameter that you want is at a number of different needle lengths, and turn up a stepped needle, with the steps .001 over the diameter that you want. Then take a VERY fine flat file, and blend all the steps into a taper. Saves fiddling with a box full of jets, (I never have the right one) that make a beautiful array on the ground when you spill the ******s.

Good luck with your eye, Jimski.

 

Bill,
Hold the float bowl vertical and you can see the angle of the carb. The float chamber is always vertical.

No Argument Herb
Were you sanding set of needles for a pair. Or just one for a Milwaukee********?
They are forgiving. Not all people here have a lifetime's experience as a machinist like you have. And I don't recall any baseline data for a Model A. It is pretty easy to get things to start and run. Somewhere around here
Most of the set-ups I worked on needed only to idle and run more or less wide open. Steps weren't the issue it was the guy trying to beat you that was the problem.

I'd be real happy if it was one eye...... but it's both. I am hoping all this Dr stuff works but it will be months before we know the results

 

OH YEAH! I have two and a half gallons in my Stearman oil tank and another 5 or so quarts in the sump and engine. But with a 2150 r.p.m. red line, it doesn't stir TOO much air (but, I'm sure it gets some) into the tank. From there it's gravity to the pumps. On my race car engine, despite prolonged time at 4000 to 5000 r.p.m. it seems like through vent and plenty of surface in the baffles and reservoir; it doesn't give me problems. (that's me in the back hole...Re: Shot on the ramp... I must've dropped my chewing gum)

 

It might be a 14.9 head cut to fit bigger pistons. Are there any plugged steam holes?

 

14.9 AF head to the left, B to the right.

 

So someone called me band this was on the other end of the line. He was wanting to know more about bangers. A good start. He has the carbs off to take a trip thru them as one had a float that isn't shutting off. More to come.

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Nice little Sport Coupe

 

Total dumb *** question, but I am stumped. Got to be something obvious. Trying to get the original motor in the car running (not the one being built). Car was running and driving 2 years ago, but was owned by someone else in between. Ran like **** when I went to get it. OK, got spark to the plugs. Can not get a single cough even with starting fluid. With it being an up draft not sure it is getting to the cylinders. I know the fuel pump is dried up. I am questioning the timing...its a B motor. If I look at it from the p***enger side the rotor should be between 4 and 5 o'clock with the number one cylinder at TDC right? Going to do a compression test next, but can't imagine all the valves are stuck open..... Or is it just that I can't get it to pop on starting fluid because it's an up draft?