Just curious what someone that has done it before thinks. I need all new gl*** in my 49 dodge pickup, and it is all flat safety gl***. This gl*** is not that costly to replace, think e-bay list it for $260 + shipping, then figure out how much gets broke. Maybe it would be cheaper to just go to a local gl*** shop. That is my plan so far, just go to local shop. But I have a 51 plymouth suburban that need to part out, and has some pretty decent gl***. Would anyone that has done this before, suggest I take the good flat safety gl*** from the suburban, and try to cut it myself to fit the 49 pickup? I have read and watched youtube articles on cutting this gl***, just wonder what the success rate is for others that have tried it. Would you do it again?
You would be much better off with all new laminated gl*** ( safety gl***) from your local gl*** guy. Now with that said what do you have to loose by trying to cut what you have? I mean if you mess it up you are no worse off than before you started, and you might just learn something.
shop around for a shop that has done this type of work before, with positive results - I learned the hard way about shops saying that they know how to cut automotive gl*** - using correct measurements/patterns
Ordered my gl*** (40 Ford Coupe) from Autogl***ics. Well packaged and fit like it was made for it......no problems.
If you are shipping from a supplier, Chances are that they have shipped gl*** before and will know how to package it correctly. Breakages are their responsiblity ? I think it Depends on the type/treatment of gl*** as to whether it is able to be cut.
I cut my own fir a 51 dodge. Just bought the rough sizes. It was a fun learning experience but it was difficult , i am lucky to have belt sanders. It was 30 bucks a side for w/s. Probably only saved 30 orc40 dollars doing it myself.
I've only had one chopped car a 35 Chevy Standard on which the gl*** wasn't an issue as it was pretty straight forward 2" chop. One thing I've always thought about was that after doing all the work on an intricate chop what would you do if you couldn't get the gl*** right or couldn't get the gl*** at all. Could be a lot of wasted metal work. Gary
I appreciate all your answers. I think what I walk away with. I will try to save what flat gl*** I can from the parts car, but not get carried away with hours of time trying to save it. If it comes out easy, fine I will set it aside. Then when am bored, I can try cutting some and see how it goes. Would be the satisfaction of learning something new while re-using something you have.
Flat gl*** is easy job for any experienced cutter. You can make templates and fit them. Take those to the gl*** shop and in a few days you'll have your windows. You can drag the car to a shop that does the old work and they will do it exactly the same way. It's pretty straight forward and hasn't changed much throughout the years. If you want tempered gl*** it's the same until they send it out for tempering. There's conflicting opinion on using safety gl*** or tempered for side windows. Pretty much everyone agrees that regular plate gl*** is a bad idea. Curved gl*** is another animal all together. Not sure exactly how they pull that off. I do know some shops can though. I see a lot with lexan front and rear with no sides. All of the hidden details on a chop are where the majority of the work is. With Some chops it's as simple as not rolling the windows up as far on flat gl*** with straight posts The top of the pane still goes to the new top but the bottom stays deeper in the door.
I was a union glazier many years ago and it is easy if you know what you are doing as with anything. If you decide to do it your self be prepared to break some. I have not cut any in years , I go to local shop to get mine. It can get expensive if you mess up a couple times. And not only Is plate gl*** a bad idea its Very dangerous and illegal. Good luck.
There is a good gl*** guy in Kennewick, Brian Jensen. He makes medical Isotopes now but was a gl*** guy for 20 years. 509 845 3078. He has cut some for me and has done a great job every time. Tell him Jeff in Pasco sent you.
laminated gl*** is mandatory or required for all Windshields today. That is the one place you can not use tempered gl***. If the added expense of tempered ( and it can be an expensive addition) doesn't bother you then you can use it everywhere else Other than the windshield. Both "Tempered" and "Laminated" are safety gl***, they just work in different ways. The reason Laminated is required for windshields is the fact that once it breaks you can still see through it to some extent, and unless it is a really bad break like a girder going through it something, it stays in place. Tempered when it breaks, breaks into thousands of little bity pieces, I am sure most everyone has seen this. Tempered can still cut you, but those little tiny pieces are less prone to cut your throat or get deep enough to sever an artery or something like that.
Just remember that you CAN NOT cut tempered gl***. I've had to clean up a couple of messes at the hardware store I used to work in from someone bringing in a piece of gl*** they had at home and wanted cut down. Didn't know it was tempered until it shattered. Worst one was a piece that weighed about 20 pounds that the boss did on the work bench. He walked away, left it for me to sweep up. Thanks.
And, believe it or not, there is a "maximum size" that the broken pieces can be. The QC people had to sample break a piece every so often, and do***ent this (From when I worked in a gl*** plant) (cannot "cut" Gl*** that is already tempered)
Years ago, I would cut laminated gl*** almost everyday. I did gl*** for UPS trucks, Case tractors, construction equipment, semi trucks, hot rods, storefront doors...etc. Tips on cutting laminated is have a good self oiling cutter. You want a clean cut, little oil helps for a smooth score. When you cut, should be continuous motion. No stopping or repositioning, so plan your cut before cutting. On cutting laminated, you cut one side and run (break) from the edge at the beginning of the cut. Use both hands and use a little pressure to get the gl*** to run. Keep the pressure on until the run goes al the way to the other edge. Now flip the gl*** over and cut as close to exactly over the cut on the other side. This is where experience takes over, cutting or tracing over the first cut precisely makes a clean break and no chips from an uneven break will fly out. Your mission is having chip free gl***. Chips at edge will weaken gl*** and eventually break. After breaking both sides, conservatively pour denatured alcohol on one side of the gl*** and light it on fire. The alcohol and heat will soften the laminated core. Slightly bend gl*** downward and cut off softened core with a razor blade. Have fun if you want to give it a go and don't set your place on fire.
I would add that if you are in a radius you be very careful when bending the gl*** that is the cut piece as it will chip the edge of the gl*** where it was cut. A pair of wide bill pliers helps with this as you can pull the cut off piece out away from the good piece when it is still pliable from the heat.
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