Photoshop of 52 chevy 3100 on Xcab S10

Here are before & afters of what I'm planning to do with my 52 any suggestions (constructive ones)? Up until last week I was planning to use a 4WD S10 Shortbed frame I've got lying around, but a local HAMBer (thanks Leon) told me where there was an Xcab 122" 2wd S10 frame that his son had already put V8 mounts in. So now instead of bobtailing it I'm going the other extreme. I want to make a new bed with higher sides anyhow so I might as well lenghten it too. My spare rear fenders need new tips so I might as well extend them to meet the stock running boards. I think it balances out the lower fronts nicely. I've even looked at kicking the pipes out through them. Mechanically she'll get a 283, 4wd S10 axle (@ 4" wider to fit between the wheelwells better), 69 caddy tilt/tele column, 88 Camaro 5 spokes ...just for you Porkand****** & Orange54... and either a three or four speed standard. Why? Partly sentimental reasons but mostly 'cause that's what I got on hand and I'd rather spend money on gas than parts.

 

Look in the Tech-o-Matic. There is a tech post that tells you how to do this step by step.

 

Looks like a no-brainer of an idea! Luv the look of those wheels. Guy at local Rod-Shop did almost the exact project and it turned out killer.
JT

 

I went to college with a guy in Maine who had a truck exactly like the one in the top picture.

 

http://www.ad-engineering.com/

Have you checked these guys out?

Good luck!
Tom

 

Didn't happen to be Bob Riley in Cape Porpoise? He had an old blue 53 3/4ton with a sunvisor and a harvest gold 47 out in front of his lobster stand. The 47 was in a calendar featuring rusting old cl***ic iron. I've got a mousepad around here somewhere with that photo on it. I spent a couple summers working on an urchin diving boat up there during college. Nicest folks up that way, but their winters make mine look pleasant (southern MA)

 

I contacted them when I was planning to use a 4wd S10 ch***is instead of a 2wd. Seemed knowledgeable and responsive and their kit looks sweet, but with the bed changes I'm planning and the 122" frame the back half would require a lot of re-engineering. In a recent E-mail they indicated that some parts may be available separately so I'm keeping them in mind.

 

If you don't want to jump through all the hoops of lengthening your truck, the S-series frames can be drilled apart at the welds and telescoped together to shorten them.

-Dave

 

It will be kind of a h***le making the new bed, but once I Photoshopped it on the 122" wheelbase it just clicked with me. My existing bed is in decent enough shape, but even if I re-finish the wood (it's been outside) and try to m***age the remaining dings out of it that won't correct the basic design flaw (IMHO) that the sides are too low in relation to the hood and beltline. I'd rather use it to make a matching trailer. I've got spare fenders and a pristine steel floor off a full size 80's fleetside to start from. A trip to the local sheetmetal fab shop to have some sides cut/rolled to size, some stake pockets from Chevy Duty, and she'll be ready for a tailgate/tonneau combo.
Unfortunately, that will likely be the easy part of this build. The junkyard where the frame was at crushed it 2 days before I got there. I haven't been able to find another that's not rusted all to hell. Worse yet, I loaned my buddy my "weekend wheels" a sweet little no-rust 88 S-10 blazer to get to his new job. No good deed goes unpunished ... the engine caught fire and burned the whole nose. To make up for it he gave me a 4 door blazer which of couse needed a little work. A p/s pump, alt bracket, radiator, ****** line, front fenders, and set of brakes/calipers/pistons later it's almost ready to try to p*** inspection with. Luckily all the parts are out of the s**** pile, except the brakes (he ponied up for those). As soon as the rattle-can and brush $20 paint job is done I'll be back at square one and can get back to my original project....

 

Here's my 50 on a S10 standard cab long bed frame. By the way its looking for a new home. V-8 auto , column shift power steering and brakes

 

hoboy, what kind of column shifter on your '50? Like an old 3-on-the-tree setup converted to shift the auto, or a modern-type column?

 

Hoboy, how'd ya get the Sanford & Son logo off the doors without ruining the patina?

 

I am also building a '50 Chevy pu on an S-10 frame I used the long bed frame works good.If you are going to use the S-10 rear end the 4x4 is a little wider and it should have gears compared to the 2wd.Good luck you might also want to check out the tech article on the HAMB.

 

hoboy, how much? Neat lookin truck.

 

Dad's truck is on an extended cab S-10 frame, but it is gonna be a flatbed. I think the extra length makes his look right. The 20's also help the proportions....15" wheels might not look as right.

 

Hey guys, thanks for the ideas and encouragement. I've got a 4X4 blazer axle all ready to go in it, since my buddy burned my "winter-beater" up. It's not as necessary for my build since I'm making a new, longer, bed. I can set my bedsides where I want them and won't need the extra couple inches trackwidth. Nothing as radical as your photo Flipper. I'm not much one for 20s and 22s being a cheap ******* an' all, but under the big front fenders....I'm easliy distracted by shiny cool stuff! Anyone have any opinions on where I should kick out the exhaust? If you look on the original photoshop pic I posted there's space to punch it out through the extended front lips of the rear fenders. Or maybe behind the fenders or out the back. Any ideas on bumper/tailight combos? I've got a pair of 79 firechicken lights and might try flipping them upside down.

 

I used the 85 S10 donor. I am a cheap *******. It functions great and keeps the floor open for piling in friends.

 

Ancient Chinese Secret.......... they had a Ford F1

 

I'm asking $7500/best. I hate to sell but too many bills/projects. I want to do more with my Cad

 

"won't correct the basic design flaw (IMHO) that the sides are too low in relation to the hood and beltline"

You may create another flaw by increasing the gap between the fender and box sides. While sectioning isn't a viable option for everyone, you could do what the mini-truckers call a "body drop" or whats properly referred to as "channeling". Lower the body down to the boards and get the beltline closer to the box. I plan to do both to my 54.

 

Here's a photoshop courtesy of mojo of my project.

 

I don't know how rare they are, my brother had a 50 chev 1 ton pick up with a 10 ft. bed

 

Excellent ideas and photos guys! Keepin' my old mind working during a long weekend of 12hr shifts. Seeing those two 54 grilles has got me motivated to finish smoothing out and using the one I 've got instead of the 52 five-bar that's on it now. I had thought of channeling the cab, but the floor is already re-done. If I did channel though and cut back the running boards I'd definitely look at sectioning and raising the tail sections of the front fenders to match the rears. Just looking at the original vs. the photoshopped version I like the extra gap between the fenders and bed rail. Okay, here's the new plan... Swap to the 54 nose, lift the cab only 2" off the S10 rails instead of 3 1/2 or 4, let the ****** come up through the floor a bit more and tunnel if needed (I want a standard floor shift anyhow), section the rear tips of the front fenders up so that they line up with the rear ones, and shorten up the running boards. I'll have to try a little photoshop work when I get home. Any other suggestions?