Hey there everyone! I am a newbie from Chicago il. I picked myself up a pretty nice 1950 plymouth special deluxe. I am having an issue with getting her to turn over. The engine doesn't seem to be seized...rebuilt the starter and generator and did most of the tune up except for wires...got the wrong oneside from parts store. All in all I need some help! Thanks! Guyfromchi
Hey hey! Okay so the car started to turn (2-3 times) and stopped followed by the starter silanoid clicking. That's as far as I got to get it going I replaced almost every component to the ignition system except wires and voltage regulator. It is a positive ground. I got a new battery to begin with.
Make sure you have good battery cables. The cheesy skinny red ones that Pep boys sell won't work well with a 6 volt system. You need big, heavy duty cables. Also, be sure you have a good engine to ch***is ground
Make sure your connections at the battery are good and clean, and the same for the ground to the engine.
If it went over compression 2 or 3 times, it probably came up against a stuck valve. Do NOT try forcing it!Take the valve cover off the side and pry all the valves open with a bar. Only if they all move can you go ahead and try turning it over without breaking the cam or doing other damage.
Valves rarely stick in the closed position. If the engine cranked over 2 or three times, all of the lifters went through their cycle
Jim, did you get the problem solved. I had the same issue on my 52 Olds which was grounded to the block. I grounded the battery to the frame and frame to the block. Along with 1/0 ground cable and problem solved!
Wow thanks for all the advice guys! Sorry for the delay but I've been in the garage! I did finally get it started! After replacing everything in the ignition system, new fuel pump and gas tank, fuel sender and a red top battery. I am now having an issue with keeping her running... Ithere runs at idle really well and then sputters out and dies. Also I am having trouble restarting it when she is all warmed up.
Jim, time to tear that carb apart and rebuild it. Use a good in line gas filter. I bet the carb is full of junk and deposits.
Here is what I have planned for mine, just remove line from carb and install the filter here, then move original line to the other side of filter. I have no real idea how well these filters clean, is more for aesthetics on my part, but they probably do ok. I also plan to install a cheapy easy to get to filter in line right in front of the fuel pump.
I installed a pertronix electronic ignition and matching coil and my hot start issues went away, idled much smoother and never ran better. was the best modification i ever did to the old flat six, actually made the car reliable again. I could stop at a store for a coke and know it will start back up instead of making me wait 30 minutes.
I have not got mine on the road yet, but getting a quick refresher from other points ignition systems. I just do not trust the quality of available replacement parts. I am considering the slant six electronic ignition distributor replacement. But think thee current issue of the poster is fuel.
Sometimes a new fuel tank comes from the factory with **** in it. Did you check inside before installing it?
Yes I did. It was clean. I have done everything but the carburetor so far to get her going. I was figuring that was my next project.
If you do rebuild the carb, set the float 1 or 2 32nds lower that the factory spec. Typical hard start hot is from percolation of fuel out of the float chamber causing a flooded condition. When trying to start hot, slowly push the pedal to the floor and hold it WO while cranking. The lower level mediates boilover without adversely effecting running down the road. also there should be a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump. a phenolic spacer under the carb will help hot hard start also.
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