what can be done with the pin holes, i was thinking about soldering them up, or using a sealer inside...
Ive used a product called "Poxy Weld" that should work; it's a two-part mix and ends up curing really hard to a good clean surface. I got mine at local Menards store.
do you think that would work as goog as soldering? the holes are on the top of the tank only that i can see...
If there is a certain area with pinholes, you should also think about filling the tank with water, cutting out the offending area, and patching in a new piece. It may also get you a glimso of what the rest of the inside looks like. It's easier to do it right once, then try to chase the same problem later.
My pinholes were all clustered together in one small part of the tank. After having the radiator shop boil it out I patched with JB Weld and 4oz fiberglass cloth. 3 years and holding up fine.
...I'd give it a try, but probly wouldnt hurt to seal the inside also in case there's holes you don't see; Por-15 would be my choice.
You gotta believe if there are pinholes that there are more areas that just haven't popped through yet. Whatever you do to the holes, I'd follow with a sealer for those spots that are near pinholes but just haven't popped yet. JH
I weld patches in my tanks if they need it. The sealer is a must though to prevent scale and flakes of crap from causing fuel problems later. Always a good idea. Pat.
I tried the tank sealers (similar to por15) but could not get the inside clean enough to get good adhesion. I thought about using a radiator shop to solder the tank, but they only offered 99% g'tee all holes would be filled up. In the end i used 'tank renu' which is an epoxy coating. (google search 'Tank renu') They grit blast tank to remove all rust and rot, then cut a hole in the top and fully coat the inside, bake in an oven untill cured, then coat the exterior and rebake. This gives a limited lifetime g'tee. More importantly, it gives Peace Of Mind. Cant afford to mess around where leaking fuel is concerned. Keep Kruisin.......
I scrub the outside bare to get all the holes to show, soldered with hot iron, generous thick big area pressure up with airbrush pump and check with spray on thick dishsoap and water mix. After all leaks fixed, rinsed with acetone, cuts varnish good, then coat inside with pour in stuff and spray on bedliner coating outside
thanks i think i will try the solder way, the tank has been striped and cleaned inside and out. other than the holes it looks new, anty tips on soldering, i have all the irons, and have done sheet metal drain pans, in the past...
To be honest I had no irons at the time, I do now. Then I had a broke off spring piece I ground clean, 6" long. Snagged it at the fat end with vise grips. Solder box, grabbed a can of flux and brushed the entire area. when I used a patch fluxed that surface too. heated the spring piece, put the torch in the vise. also grabbed some needle nose and heated the patch and boiled it clean. then laid it in place. Hotiron on the placed patch, solder it. The solder transfers the heat more than the iron, so more than one re-heat is done until the iron and solder transfer heat to the needed areas to make the bond. backhoe tank was heavy, patch was about 14 Ga, worked like a charm. That way you know you got somethin, not a bondo job. Not to say epoxy don't work, but it's not what I do. And it don't leak, then do the inside coat thing. Just my opinion, and I was told I was wrong agian just today
i have been told so many things to do, if all fails i will get a new tank, but i want to try the solder first...
you haven't said what car this tank is out of , but checking your profile you have a `46 ford coupe . if it's for that...do yourself a favor and buy a new poly tank from Tanks. about $200 it bolts right in , doesn't need paint , will never rust ,will never leak , has a top fuel pickup tube , hole for fuel sender , and a check vent and you don't have to worry blowing yourself up soldering your old tank
http://well i went with the red kote insted of soldering, it went well,i followed the directions,but didnot save what was left to reuse again,i didnt think their would be that much left over, it coated great,should i recoat again to be safe or is one coat enough, out of a i quart can i got about a 1/4 of a can left...
Just another opinion/product: http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm I've used this stuff before and it's fantastic. It supposedly works better if the tank is rusty.
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