Hello everyone, I'm in need of some help. I have a 53 4 door. Engine just been rebuilt the 235 engine, and i am running my wiring for ignition. I'm trying to wire the byp*** wire on the schematics. That goes from starter solenoid "R" to coil "+" byp***ing the ballast resistor. I have uploaded the picture of my starter solenoid. The yellow is battery post. In green is my crank start wire. What I have circled in red is the symbol "R" on the solenoid. Then I have no more post to run this wire from. The third post on solenoid seems like a ground strap that bolts to starter, then two bolts that keep the solenoid together.
Just get a big ring terminal and attach the ballast resistor byp*** wire to the big big post that has the lead to the motor.
I suggest you do not do this....it will pretty much short the coil hot side to ground....and there usually are no fuses in the ignition wiring
I ran my 3100 like that for a few years, until it got a V8. It did catch on fire a few times, but not from that.
Forget the 6 volt if that is what your doing. You will be much more well served by converting to 12 volt. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's likely a 12v conversion, using the original 6v starter (since you also have to change the flywheel to converter to a 12v starter). But we don't have a lot to go on here....
Why did you post the S terminal with ign circled ? Maybe the 2 ring terminals mean something. Like one is from the ignition switch's S terminal and the other can be used to accurate a relay to get you your by p***. Click here > http://www.electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/electromechanical-relay.gif
The car I have converted to 12V or so I began. All the light bulbs have been set to 12v, running single wire gm alternator, did install a voltage reducer for my fuel gauge. My starter is still 6v from reading found out its ok to keep it 6v as long I don't crank it over long period of times. I had starter rebuilt by local shop I do believe they kept it 6v. My distributor, and the points are still the original. Reading 12v conversion articles did not list as a concern to do swap out. I have circled the solenoid to label it, and my ignition coil is 12v. My local speed shop didn't have an internally resisted coil, so reason I bought this guy. For now, on ignition switch "run" I have wire going to ballast resistor, then resistor has wire going to "+" of the coil. The ignition switch "start" I have it running to "s" on the starter solenoid. I am concerned for not having a "R" on my coil. I have uploaded picture of a wiring setup found when searching for ballast resistor wiring.
"For now, on ignition switch "run" I have wire going to ballast resistor, then resistor has wire going to "+" of the coil. The ignition switch "start" I have it running to "s" on the coil. I am concerned for not having a "R" on my coil. I have uploaded picture of a wiring setup found when searching for ballast resistor wiring." That should work just fine. Basically start directly to coil for full 12 volt to start, run goes through the ballast resistor to cut down the voltage to the coil when the engine is running to take the load off of the points.
No coil has an R on it. Only the starter solenoid, R will go to + on the coil IF you use an external resistor coil. You are making a big deal out of a simple problem. Either buy a coil that doesn't require a ballast resistor, or a starter solenoid that has the R terminal. Either way, for 25 bucks you are done. Then you can start on the real and future problem. That wiring! Wire nuts? Some future problems built in right there.
thanks!!!!! Sorry for the wiring I just have **** connectors holding it together, I have finished it with properly cutting to length and soldering all the wires.
You don't need the wire from the starter R terminal, to the coil + terminal, really.... It is there to make sure the coil gets enough voltage under severe conditions, such as cold weather starting, when we generally don't drive old cars. So don't worry about it, just make the wiring you already have look pretty, and drive the car and have fun.
It would appear that you are from another country by the way you word things. If this is true please I am not trying to make fun but just trying to understand you better. You wrote on your last post "R" on my coil". Did you mean starter instead ? Here's another option that can be done to achieve your original request. If you can locate a 1955-1956 ignition switch to use those have a resistor by p***. It's marked as #2 Ign. Just wire it to the + terminal of the coil.
Please forgive my lack of knowledge concerning 12 volt wiring systems. I am in the process of re-wiring my 1958 Chevy Delray. I am only using the stock fuel gauge and oil pressure light that came with the car. The wiring out of the fuse box to the gauge has a constant 12 volts. I know this has to be reduced to about 8 volts to the fuel gauge so that it can further reduce the voltage through its own resistor. I bought a 1.5 ohm 10 watt resistor to put inline which should drop the 12 volt to about 8 volts. When I hook my meter up to the end of the resistor with 12 volts coming in I still have 12 coming out. What am I missing? How can I drop the voltage down so it doesn’t peg my fuel gauge? 12 volts going to my gas tank is probably not good . I tried a stock ballast resistor also, same thing. I hooked the wire from the fuse box directly to the input side of the gauge and jumped it to my oil pressure light. The oil pressure sending unit provides the ground for the light. The only other connection is the opposite side of the fuel gauge through its own resistor, which should be around 3 volts going back to the fuel sending unit. Hope this makes sense.
Have you tested your fuel tank sending unit? (this is where to find the resistance your looking for and not at the + power source to the gauge).
The easiest way is just add a ford style solenoid which will give you a buy p*** terminal If you scroll down there is a wiring schematic http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0312-chevrolet-no-start-fix/#/
Old post I found, just thought I would add a little info. Most after market starters like the mini I have do not have an R post on the starter. Powermaster makes a 10A/250v diode wire that attaches to the starter motor lead (the nut just to the right of the battery connection in the pic.) You can make one yourself just make sure you have the diode arranged so no current can p*** back through to the starter (one way 12 volts to the coil) . This is recommended if you are running points with a resistance wire/ballast and want a byp*** wire for a full 12v to the coil during start up.
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