Projects Steering joint question

I built mine for $24 with scrap 2" pipe from a muffler shop and a couple of flanges from an old set of headers. Bought 8 ea. 3' pieces @ $2 a piece, then had him bend a 45 degree angle in each for $1 each. Welded them up and later bought some motorcycle baffles to quiet em down. No more steering clearance issues.


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Brigrat- thanks haha,

Thanks guys for the pics. I just don't want to weld anything in the column. I'll have to see what I can do in that. It's also chrome I'd rather not mess it up

The column in my coupe I heavily modified,but to me that seamed a little easier as it wasn't a tilt unit

 

The tilt part has nothing to do with it..............................
There is no welding if it's a double D up to where you are cutting the outside tube.............................

 

Don't over think this.
You want to think it, but not over think it. There's at least a dozen good ideas here and they are no good or too difficult.

Cutting the column won't be hard.
On the end of the column there is an inner bearing/ that's all. Find what's holding the bearing in. This one is a FR column with 2 prick punches holding the bearing. Yours might have something different like a set screw, snap ring, tack weld alien technology.

Cut the outer tube, reinstall the bearing, cut the shaft. Took longer to type this than to do it

 

I'd believe that he and I are thinking on the same line. If you do it right you shouldn't even have to disassemble the column. the bottom bearing should slip out after taking loose what ever holds it in place and you could see how far up the double D part of the shaft goes. A tubing cutter with some tape around the tube to keep from marking the chrome and the tube is shorter, the bearing goes back in and the shaft gets cut to the appropriate length. Only rub with the plan is if the double D section doesn't go up that far.

I'm going to assume (an hope) you are running fenders when using the MII front end so that knocks over the frame headers out for the most part and lakes headers are too frigging belly button. Personally I don't see anything offensive about the headers in the photo if they fit and work. You already threw the totally traditional hot rod thing out when you put the MII on it so header style doesn't really matter anyhow.

 

I kinda agree with the column shortening but before doing anything irreversible I'd be trying to mock it up in such a way that I'd be sure of the outcome. The motor looks to be very far forward, over the crossmember somewhat more than on other cars, such that the header dump is closer to the rack input shaft. Looking at the first pic it looks likely that you'll never be able to make that rack work with those headers without reworking something. Aren't there headers that dump out a few inches rearward of the center, and on a rearward slant too? Not sure of the applications though.
Chris

 

Brigrat- I got ya,yeah should be easy

31vivky- thank you for taking the time for the pictures,I understand perfectly now. I was thinking I'd have to weld the tube cause it has a bearing retainer but if I can get it out then I should be fine. That's the kind of info I like to see on here. Props to you sir

Mr48chev- what are you talking about?? I stated it's on a studebaker pickup. Why in the hell would it not have fenders and a hood? Haha I'm so confused on why you are thinking that! Also it doesn't limit the over the frame idea,that was my original plan. Just turns out my tires will rub.i was going to cut out the inner wells if needed for pipes

Happydaze-the problem is those types of headers will hit the shaft. The shaft is very close to where the block hugger pipe would be,those headers you speak off have all 4 tubes at that point. I've looked t about every header I can find and nothing will fit except a hugger header which I do not want to use.its on a 383 stroker,something about block huggers just look like (no h.p) to me.also,my engine really isn't over the crossmember.only the front cylinder is. any farther back it would have the firewall cut,and my clutch pedal would not be in the right spot.


I'll pull the column,look at cutting it and adding another joint and heim. We have bad weather coming and I work in a carport so it will have to wait for a bit

 

Ahh Studebaker, here is my old Stude, But it don't look like the Camaro headers will work for you..

 

The column pictured in my post #29 is as ordered to length from Ididit, though I'm pretty sure your not gonna want to buy another column.
In the scheme of things, modifying your existing column is about as simple of a job you likely will encounter in car building.

 

Poh- post up some more pics of that thing! I can't get my radiator to fit either. I suppose my engine is just a tad farther forward but doesn't look like it's much.

Your engine perhaps is in higher?

 

DDDdenny- like I said I've heavily modded 2 49 ford columns,just never messed with one of these. These may actually be way easier.

That's the route I'm probably going to take. I think I can fit some headers if I get the shaft over a bit and coming in to the rack more from the top rather than the closer straight shot it's at now. I was under the assumption to keep the steering as straight as possibly but I've seen some pretty corkscrewed setups so I think I can get this done. Just waiting on weather and getting my coupe back up and running

 

looking at this shot if you got a drivers side Sanderson header for a 49 - 52 Chevy with stock suspension you would have more room. they are a rear dump, and really close to the block, the collector would be right by the oil filter.

 

49- I think it would hit the column if I don't shorten it. It's pretty close to the rear port

 

I think the back tube will hit.

 

This is your answer. Without shortening the column the joint angles will be too severe.

 

Maybe, but I'm gonna say lower.. I built the frame at 34" wide I believe..it's been several years, and it has passed a few hands now, but here are what i have left..It was a 54, On a chassis I built out of 2x4 front and rear tubing tied together with 2x6 under the cab, had MII front, four link rear, air all four corners. Time of build it had a 363 SBC, with a 700r, at time of sale it had a 383 with a muncie 4spd

 

Ooops I mis-read, yeah, I'm gonna say you are forward as well, I used the existing radiator mount, mounted inside of it.

 

I think the OP has "fear of the unknown syndrome", I have a 9" Ford rear center section to rebuild and have been procrastinating that part of the build.
When I order any aftermarket steering column I get the longest one made in the style I want just so I can custom fit it for my needs. Good luck with whatever you do, the Study trucks are great trucks, I've built 4 of them over the years ...............................

 

More joints,no,should always be less,planning ahead,starts before parts are together. That all too late now. As a extra idea,steeringbox may not need to be at the angle it is,they will often work fine if pitmen arm is heated an bent a little/giving a better line an less joints with better clear

 

... I'm always scared to chop a top...just until I do it.. hahaha

 

So guys guess what? It's rainI guess but I went out and checked something.i set the column first off too low, so there's some of my shortening issue,second it's mounted too far left in the truck... I think I was test fitting a bigger steering wheel at the time of something. The column can actually move over about 2 inches towards the frame.. I feel sorta dumb for not noticing it. It will still need another joint in there,and headers will still be tight but I think some may squeeze by if I move the column over a bit.

 

Dana- may want to re read the post. Not even sure where you are getting pitman arm and steering box from. My truck has neither of those

 

Poh- that's what my setup is, 383,Muncie,4 bar with coil over. My truck has a similar stance. Can't find any pics with the front on and this is when it was still sheltered but couldn't get around it good enough to work on it

 

Kinda had to do the same thing, shortened an "he-already-bought-it-so have to use it" aftermarket column to get behind the rear port, added a support bearing wing the shaft out around the manifold and over the motor mount. Amazing, how losing 2-3/4" out of the column, changed the whole deal.

 

This statement doesn't jive with your photos, did you mean to say the column is to far to the right ???

 

Was only trying too,get an idea across,that you can point the steering shaft coming out of your rack,or box if thats what some one is using,lets you line up better with out adding U-joints. Less joints the better !

 

Well, I see all my pics didn't post, but you can look at my profile


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Just for reference on column location, my 41 chevy, you can see my column looks long as well but a lot depends on engine placement.

 

Drawn in top view.
There's no reason you could not or should not doing this.

Opinions is different, it's got more parts but it might be less trouble

 

Swade- you know what I mean..

Dana- yeah I hear ya

31vivky-that's actually the design I was kinda thinking about,trying to keep it up and over to the frame