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Hot Rods Brake Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Wes Rager, Apr 6, 2017.

  1. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    I am trying to identify the system design for these brakes. I have sent pictures to many experts and no one can identify the system design. At times the pedal becomes extremely hard, no assist. I expect its a faulty pressure accumulator (black sphere). Has anyone seen this type of system before? Thanks!
     

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    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. graveyardsledder
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 294

    graveyardsledder
    Member

    That's a GM master cylinder, it appears with the pressure accumulator it's a hydro-boost system. Looks to be a big mess. With a bunch of different unions. That's kinda scary.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    rjones35 likes this.
  3. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    It is scary! I get what you're saying but it does Not have power steering so how can it be a hydro boost system?
     
  4. graveyardsledder
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 294

    graveyardsledder
    Member

    Those hydraulic hoses, what are they for then. That is some weird stuff for right there


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  5. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    They go to the M/C and prop valve. See pic. The black sphere is the accumulator. I have only ever seen these on high end cars like Mercedes and Maserati (and the occasional Buick).
     

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  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Electric power brake booster.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    The reservoir is in the trunk (top pic). The actual M/C is under the floor so the hoses run from the reservoir to the M/C. I just don't know what the silver can (cylinder) is under the reservoir.
     
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The reservoir can be anywhere, as long as it is bled, and has no leaks.

    The silver can is the electro-hydraulic pump that provides boost pressure.
     
  9. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Wow, thanks gimpyshotrods!!!!! You win! I don't immediately see any electrical wiring, but maybe I am just not seeing it. That "silver can" I referred to might be the electric motor. I need to crawl up in there and look. You have helped a ton! I have read that these accumulators are notorious for going bad. I'm glad I bought a spare!
     
  10. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Thanks again gimpy!!! Have you used or installed this system in the past? What else should I know about it?
     
  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
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    There should be an electrical connector on it somewhere. Feel around.
     
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You are going to hate to hear this. No, I have not installed them.

    I have removed two systems that had failed, at the pump. The owners balked at the cost of the repair. At the time, a replacement pump was almost $1000.00.
     
  13. fordrodsteven
    Joined: Apr 1, 2017
    Posts: 98

    fordrodsteven
    Member

    I have a 1988 Buick Reatta and your system, though not exactly the same, reminds me of the Reatta ABS system. If you go to reattaowner.com forum you will find a troubleshooting procedure that might help you out. There are also very knowledgeable people at the Buick Reatta AACA forum. I can mention a few other Buick sites but it all becomes redundant. I suggest you check it out and you might glean some information that you can use to help solve your problem.
     
  14. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Well, actually that does help, if not scary. It is par for the course with this car...nothing is as it seems. At least I know what I'm in for. Thanks again. Wish you were closer. I'd have you replace it too. I already backed into someone when it failed. Ouch!
     

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  15. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Will do, Thanks!
     
  16. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Wow. Just did my research and what a hot mess! What options do I have? Hydro boost is a no go....no P/S. Why not just manual brakes? My Nova had them and never an issue.
     
  17. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,517

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I'd pull that system out of there quicker than you can say Rube Goldberg !
    Brakes should be simple and redundant with as few fail points as possible. Manual...got to be better than what you have now and parking lot safe too.
     
    rjones35 and graveyardsledder like this.
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No issues whatsoever with manual brakes. As long as the pedal ratio is good, and the master cylinder bore is appropriate for the calipers and/or wheel cylinders, it's all good.

    Do you know what specific brakes are on all 4-corners?
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  19. It does not surprise me that you've removed two systems. I'm not a fan.
     
  20. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Thank you all! Great help from everyone.
     
  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
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    If you can fenagle the space, HAMBer @55willys sells remote boosters that run off of engine vacuum, provided that you have enough engine vacuum. They don't have a specific home-location, as long as the are plumbed and bled properly, and, of course, have no leaks.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/remote-mounted-hydro-vac-units.1002886/

    Not sure you have the space. That thing is pretty busy under there. It could go in the trunk, I suppose.
     
  22. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [​IMG]
    1) overall length 13"
    2) length of center 4.80"
    3) length of end 4.09"
    4) diameter of body 5.50"
    5) centerline to side of plumbing 4.13"

    Or:
    [​IMG]
    1) overall length 15.11"
    2) body length 9.84"
    3) end length 5.27"
    4) body diameter 7"
    5) centerline to side of plumbing 4.48"
     
  23. I'd be thinking manual brake conversion.
     
  24. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IF that does not require cutting up a finished car, to fix the pedal ratio.
     
  25. Yes. Looking back to post 15, he will be mixing up some paint to fix some damage anyways.
     
  26. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    I had to pull the tank to install the in-tank pump for EFI so I had it repaired and repainted a few weeks ago. But I do have a lot of paint left over.
     
  27. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

  28. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,012

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you whip up a little diagram of the brake pedal, showing how it is configured, including these dimensions:

    Pedal pad center to pivot center.
    Pushrod pin (on pedal arm) to pivot center.

    ...we can figure out the ratio, and what changes would need to be made, in the least intrusive way possible.
     
  29. Wes Rager
    Joined: May 4, 2016
    Posts: 36

    Wes Rager
    Member

    Thanks for your help! I will get the dimensions in the next few days.
     

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