Well it figure the way my luck runs I would come across this mess. I was removing the Rube Goldberg ins***ute of technology graduate's handy work(aka) former owner. He decided 2" angle iron was a useful way out mounting a radiator temporarily to get the 6 cylinder Chevy motor to run, not the end of the world I get out the 4"cut off wheel and proceed to remove the piece of handy work and this is what I found. Rot is some what expected on all old cars but the gauge of the (sheet metal) is ridiculous. Many here have far more experience on these old clunkers than I do but the front crossmember on my 56 Nomad is pretty hefty compared to this. So my question is has anyone come across anything like this and what suggestions do you have to repair it. Please constructive mechanical or metal working ideas only. I will strip the frame down this week after I get the motor and transmission removed and roll it into my shop to give the entire frame a good once over. Your technical input is always appreciated.
I would be more worried about the insides of the crossmember where you can't see. Rust attacks from the inside out. Had a doctor looking to buy an old corvette and brought it to a shop I worked at in Phoenix. We put up the lift and they had patched a rust hole in the frame with fibergl***. By the time we got to the end of the rust he had a nice body and drivetrain. Complete new frame was needed to repair the car after he paid 30K for the car. This was in the 70's.
Exactly, this isn't my first rodeo but it is my first Plymouth of this vintage. I was contemplating making an entire new piece from a heavier gage metal, cutting out the old section blasting the inside or use a chemical solution etc. etc etc etc. but perhaps I'd be better off using the S10 frame my friend said he would sell me for $150 and starting with a more modern suspension. It neither a restoration or a show car so putting an S10 frame under it doesn't bother me. I found a fellow HAMB member who has one but logistically its a nightmare
I think you would be much better off repairing the crossmember. A frame swap will have it's own set of nightmares.
I have a 49 with rot in the same place only one of my lower control arms is hanging in mid air,front clip is off and when I get time I'll put another complete cross member in this one place, I've had the extra one for some time and its cherry
No s-10! Very common on this vintage, I just sold a 48 special deluxe same deal, had a 46 cad., 48 Chev. Last year same deal...
Well if you happen to hear of a cross member keep me in mind Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Knew a guy who tried to use a S-10 frame, eventually he gave up on that! My '48 has a subframe from a 70s Cutl***. solves your problem.
...s-10 is waaaay too narrow...it will look goofy. If the front is the only 'bad' area then you might want to look at the 1st Gen Dakota for a front clip. .
Yeah they "wiil" make a one off piece for a 48 for the low low price of $3000. Ah on a $400 car I don't think so. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That frame started life out as 11G sheet steel (probably the same gauge metal your Nomad has for frame thickness). The part that is rusted out is the lowest point on the crossmember, and the location any water that got trapped inside the crossmember ended up. It only took 70 years to get this bad... Get under there with a pointed chipping hammer and hit it, if it dents easily, or the hammer blows through, it needed replacing. Find out how far the repair will have to go to get to good steel. Expect to patch nearly the entire bottom between the lower control arm mounting points (be sure that area is still good on both sides). Also expect to replace about the bottom inch on the front and rear vertical walls. If you intend on installing a V8, you may want to go ahead and add a notch in the rear vertical wall for lower pulley clearance. A 1st gen Dakota (1987-1990) fits well (meets up with the Plymouth frame at about the firewall and has about the correct wheel track) and has 5 lug brakes with a 4 1/2" bolt pattern. The 1991 through 1996 Dakota frames fit just as well, but come with 6 bolt wheels. They can be converted to 5 bolt by using the older 5 bolt rotors. The 97-2001 frames will also fit pretty well, they also come with 6 bolt wheels, but it is very complex to change them to the 5 bolt rotors. If your buying a Dakota, you will also want to look the frame over pretty well, these trucks are not exactly new anymore either. Whatever frame clip you might do will require fabrication of a radiator support, and a master cylinder upgrade to accommodate the new dist brakes, and some steering column modification. I would also expect to have to rebuild the steering and brakes on the clip (unless its new). Of course, this has all been covered before, you can find lots of info doing a search right here on the HAMB. Gene
Use the s10 clip, and rear end if the cross member is beyond fixing, and it's not too narrow , minimal wheel offset will fix it if it bugs you, probably 1/3 the cost to r/b the GM clip , you still have to r/b all the stock stuff after you fix the rot... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Koolkemp that's what I was thinking and also got the same advice from a fellow HAMB member in person Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you have clearance issues around the steering box, you could use an s10, g body or Camaro manual box, a lot smaller and you don't have to deal with the pump and hoses either...if the s10 rear is too narrow a 4x4 rear is a few inches wider, using the whole frame is a huge job ( ask me lol) clipping it and a rear end swap could be a roller after a couple of weekends. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got a 50 crossmember....free ..you pay freight.....looks similar...sure it's going to patch up yours...
Thanks, anyway that you. can give me an idea what the freight would be Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I really appreciate it, but before we go crazy let me take a few more pictures of mine and or I can check on the P15 board and compare specs. I agree it sure does look like mine. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can fix this! Get some sheet metal, a piece of 1 inch plywood, bolts, poster board, drill, grinder,and a welder. Peck around and confirm where it's solid. Use the poster as a pattern for your patch or patches. Cut the plywood to match the poster pattern minus the lip. Cut the sheet metal to match the poster pattern...allow for the lip. Mark your edge and allow for the lip. Match the metal to the wood. You should have some overlap of metal. This will be the lip or edge of the crossmember. Drill some holes and bolt the patch to the plywood. With a big ball peen hammer bend the metal over to create that lip. You can apply limited heat and still keep the wood form intact. A vise is good to use to hold it. You can simply lap the patches on top and weld through the bolt holes and around the edges or you could cut out the old and flush weld the edges. Lapped on top of the old member should last another 67 years. Hopefully I was clear. There is many ways to do this. Maybe I planted an idea of how to fix this. P.S. If you cannot weld you can go ahead and make up the patches for someone who can. You can clean these up with a Grinder and a file. Painted the repair would be almost invisible.
Your a smart man, not being a smart A** but I have a brake, shrinker/stretcher bead roller, beverly shear and other ***orted gadgets. ..lol moy first concern is how bad is the rust on the inside, that will determine my next step. Thanks again, oh yeah several welders too, I was thinking of taking the one from the 50 and taking it apart Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks. I know that sounded backwoods and black smithy but you never know how folks are equipped. I build and study Kentucky Longrifles where lots of things are hand made. It takes time but you would be surprised what you can make. Another area on that car I would inspect closely is the rear area of the frame rails. Pay close attention to where the spring hangers and Shackles mount. Sometimes they show rust there.
Thanks yes I've been told to look there as well, that area looks ok but I would eventually box the rear rails. Kentucky rifles, wow very interesting I have a couple of old guns I'm trying to sell and I thought 1865 was old. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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