Technical Extra cooling at the pull of a cable ?

LOL^

 

Add me to that list that has kicked on the heater to help cool the engine on long pulls, slow traffic or just when I thought the needle was too far to the right for comfort. I think that in the little box with wheels I drove to work for a few years before it got wrecked last fall the heater core may have been as big as the radiator it's self.

 

You guys with heaters are killin' me.

 

You don't mention what kind of fan you are using but I can tell you this.
If you are using a good electric fan your radiator is likely inadequate for your engine.
If you are using a mechanical fan same problem or...
Assuming a Model A radiator using a Model A shell or Deuce shell with other fan setup, try making up some shields to guide the air though the core. Use cardboard and duct tape for experimentation.
On an A shell block the air around the inside edges of the shell entry to the core all the way around.
For a Deuce shell or other shells block all areas around the radiator core to the shell.
Airflow through the core is super important even on an open engine car. Air always takes the easiest around or through things.
This has improved cooling on every car I've used it on.

 

That picture was taken on a 80 degree day.....

 

Extra cooling at the pull of a cable ?
This is very common many years ago, In India they used a Punkah walla for cooling

You can see this in action in the background of this short video clip

 

you got that right! leaves on the trees, sun out, looks like a nice day to me.

 

Save the money, buy a good BEER cooler, and you'll be fine!

 

Been there and done that lol


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Hahahahahaha now that's funny


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I agree with Petejoe & indyips, fix the problem don't try to work around it u'll be happier in the end, hotrod harry


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I think your idea is a good one in principal, but the proportions are way off. I don't think one quart of water will be enough to move the needle.

Try this:
Remove the radiator cap on your daily driver car. Start the engine and get it hot.

Pour a quart of water into the radiator. Now look at the temperature (either on the dash or with a thermometer). It will not have moved even one degree. Pour more water into the radiator. Keep track of how much water it took to move the needle. That's exactly how big of a reservoir you'll need.

The engine is too big of a heater for one quart to make much of a difference.

What can I compare it to?

It's like climbing into a jacuzzi with the heater turned up to 200 degrees. Even an entire gallon of cool water isn't going to be enough to let you climb in without being burnt. You would have to pour many many gallons into it to move the needle on the thermometer at all. And you'd still have to overcome the heater, which is always working against you.

Your radiator and fan need to be too big for your engine to overheat. Then the thermostat will limit the amount of water going through it. When your engine needs more cool water, the thermostat acts just like the valve you are talking about installing, only on a bigger scale. When the engine gets hot, the thermostat opens up a little to let the cool water in the radiator into the engine. The difference between your copper pipe reservoir and the radiator is that the radiator has huge amounts of air flowing through it to remove the heat. It takes away the engine's heat faster than it can produce it. That makes it a limitless source of cool water for your engine.

Many gallons per minute flow through your radiator. Your copper pipe reservoir is not capable of many gallons per minute. That's why I said I thought your idea was good in principal but out of proportion to the water needed. So long as your radiator is a limitless supply of cool water, you don't need to install a tiny tank with a valve or even a large tank. Adding a small amount of cool water will not have any effect. You need to look at removing the heat from the water that's already in there, not adding a small amount of cool water to it. That's why folks are telling you to get a bigger radiator or an axillary radiator.

If I were in your shoes, I'd try the simple experiment of pouring a quart of water into my daily driver car's radiator before building something.

Good luck with your hot rod build!



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.....................and you want to be a Roadster Boy.

 

The water mist into the radiator "does" work.
The water cooled Warbirds (WWII aircraft) proved that over and over again.

But then again, a better radiator might be a better way to go.

Mike

 

Guys I agree with the radiator thing an generally your statement is true. If the auto has a limited frontal area an engine requiring more cooling an oil small cooler can reduce engine temp by 15*. If your engine is running at 210 what a difference.
Just saying.

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Some science to go along with everyone's feelings.
10 feet of 1/2 inch copper tube will hold .407 of a quart. Add some rubber hose and now you are up to MAYBE 1/2 quart. Now add the under car heat that pretty much every car has of well over 100 degrees, maybe 150 or so?
Adding that "shot" of 1/2 quart of 150 degree coolant to your several gallons of 200 degree coolant will do nothing. But, we will be entertained......

 

Ok, it might cost a little more over a lot of time. Spray the radiator with N2O. Those "street racers" that ran 6 seconds but had to drive 25 miles? They did it to keep all that HP cool. Maybe CO2 as well. Be far enough away you don't shock the system and crack the radiator. Considering the number of times you might need it it could be a quick release gig and only for travel. Just a thought.

 

Pissing in the Mississippi won't flood New Orleans.

 

.............................I don't need to tell you how my luck would work if I tried that scenario.

 

So what is the thought on this whole thing? Adding another 1/2 qt of "cooler" water will cool the system down? or adding a heater core (another radiator) to the system to cool it down? If we juat add another 1/2 qt to the system where will the 1/2 qt that is in the system go? Out the overflow? OR are we just making the system larger to hold another 1/2qt? If we are just adding another 1/2 qt to the system, I think this is where the OP is going, if that will work (I don't think so) what happens at the next stop light or toll both?

I don't think my car gets hotter as I come to a stop, but I can see it getting hotter just sitting in a line of traffic for a while. just takes some time.

 

Just adding 1/2 quart, or a full quart, or a gallon of cooler water will not help the situation of an overheating engine. Sorry, it's not. The only way the OP's idea could help is if the flow of coolant through the copper pipes acted as a radiator and transfered some additional heat to the atmosphere as it flowed through. Which is doubtful. And which means, he'd be better off mounting some kind of oil cooler or heater core down there instead, which would be far more efficient at shedding heat. Better yet, increase the size of the radiator surface area, and/or increase the speed of the coolant circulation.

 

Have we nailed down the issue yet. No shroud, radiator too small or clogged, fan size or position on the radiator, pump flow, ETC.

 

It's pretty common knowledge that flipping on the heater will reduce coolant temps because it's more air passing over an aux radiator/heater core. The down side is that it is going to hard boil your nuts.

I often ran into this during parade duty in a black car, 3/4 of the along the route the heater had to come on. It sucked SOOOO BAD!!! Top down, baked by the sun, then turn on the heater. There was no issue with the cooling system that needed correction, and having an extra capacity aux radiator/heater core at the rear of the car would have made life a lot easier.

 

I had a '46 Military WC-26. Looked like a Suburban, a mean one.
There was a 1953, 270 Hemi with the RED RAM tranny.
The radiator space was for a 226 flat head 6.
I ran hose and pipe from the heater hose ports on the motor to a 20 gallon tank in the bed of the truck.
This truck couldn't be overloaded so I didn't consider the additional weight.
Worked like a champ.
Get a bigger radiator. If not available in a book, look up a competent radiator guy.

 

I wonder if that will work with Bourbon?

 

My son took that picture and Willy is correct. In all fairness he was following a Good Humor truck with its back door open.

 

I used to run a old bulldozer. And on hot summer days working those dozers hard. Wide open throttle in second gear the temp used to rise and there was always the possibility of overheating. One Guy had a TD 15 international. He carried a 100 pound LP bottle strapped to the cab. Long hose with a valve. He would crack that valve and the fan carried that LP through the radiator and it blew out the front. Reverse fan. eventually one day it caught fire. We carried a five gallon bucket of water and would let the trickle over the radiator. The cure I liked best was pulling over in the shade and drinking a cold beer or two while that dozer idled and cooled down. Ive used the same pour water over the radiator tactic on different vehicles with marginal cooling in the past. My 66 GMC would get hot pulling hard on a hot day. The installation of a 61 chevy Viking honey comb radiator cured that problem. I still carry 5 gallons of water with me.

 

Even better ... install an AC and cool the radiator hoses ... #genius

Alternately use a swamp cooler instead packed with dry ice.

 

A cooling system is just that.... with emphasis on the word "SYSTEM". It's the radiator, the pump, the fan, the thermostat, the shroud, etc. Air always moves from high pressure to low pressure. The fan is actually only an assistant to that rule. Modern cars have electric fans that usually only operate to create a pressure differential when standing or creeping in bumper to bumper traffic. They also have full body work with inner fenders, splash shields and well functioning, sealed shrouds. This makes them very efficient going down the road with the fan at rest and standing still with the fan pulling like Jack The Bear. But what happens a lot with rods is hoods and body work are removed and the shrouds around the fans may be compromised or eliminated. Missing body work tends to equalize the pressure of the air front and back of the radiator and a fan with shroud that is not sealed and leaks, or is missing, doesn't pull 100% of the CFM through the radiator core.

Obviously not every rod needs to change whatever set up it has, but there are some that do. Personally the first place I would look is the fan/shroud combo to see if something could to be done to up the efficiency when the fan has to work hardest.

 

It seems than most missed your post. You aren't having a problem with the car when it's moving, the problem is when it is working hard at 65 then has to stop without slowing. You just want a little shot to help the engine cool to idle temperature sooner. It's certainly worth a try. The cooler water should go directly into the engine. Copper transfers heat better than aluminum. The water will be 100 degrees cooler and might do what you need. It doesn't cost much to try. You could use some hydronic baseboard elements.