It has arrived and now the learning curve. Are there any dimension or diagrams out there so I don't totally screw this up? Thx Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Quite a few HAMB threads but no much with measurements, this is another board thread with a few photos to show positioning of brackets etc. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gambino-kustoms-tail-dragger-kits-get-a-new-look.802357/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...t-to-finish-with-pics-vidios-up-dates.394429/
Thx for the info. Keep it coming ha. I was planning on bringing in the "parallel" bars about 1.5" in from the frame hopefully that will have plenty of clearance. How should I plan for the pinion angle if I don't have the trans, I'm planning on having the car ride pretty level. With a level frame should I set it at zero? Thx again Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Frame level to the ground. Pinion 3º up, at ride height. The bars are adjustable, set them in the middle of the thread travel.
Set the car at ride height (Level) with rear end in and on tyres, measure distance to floor from frame at opposite locations, centre of axle to floor and wheelbase. Hopefully the frame is square and rear end is mounted correctly. Sit the frame on stable stands to replicate ride height and remove rear end. Set replacement rear end centering it in and square to frame so it replicate where it sits at ride height. Set the pinion at 3 degrees up and tack weld brackets to housing and frame to keep it where it needs to be before you even think about locating the arms and brackets. Measure and double check lengths and diagonals to ensure everything is where it should be. When you mount the engine / transmission later set it 3 degrees down at rear as per Gimpy. Looking at photos above I would use an 1/8" reinforcing plate where the upper and lower brackets attach to frame to spread the load over a larger footprint, less likelihood of a stress crack developing where brackets join top hat frame. I would also gusset the forward end of the lower bracket both horizontally and vertically but that's me. The centre of the notch should be above the centre of the housing tubes. Cut once, measure twice to ensure each side is identical, that way it maintains correct geometry when driving. Remember at ride height that the lower arm pivot points on frame need to be higher that the mounting points on rear end.
More questions: - I get level left/right but how do you level it front to back or do you just go for ride height/rake? -on the C-Notch I have a 1/4" gap do I leave it on the bottom of the top hat or raise it to stay inline with the top of the notch? -does anyone have some center line measurements of the rear end? I measured from the back to CL at 37 1/4", 131 3/4 to the front of the frame and 77 5/8" to the K-member. This is where I measured from Thx again Also, how precise do I need to be on CL to the 1/16? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In case you wanna see updates Gambino taildragger on a '53 Chevy https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Gambino-taildragger-on-a-'53-Chevy.1059773/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's true, you do learn something every day! Today I've learned / seen a different way to move the rear axle rearwards in order to center the wheels in the wells. Looks pretty funky, but functional. Looks to me while you have good access to it all you might as well convert what you have to a more conventional method with the U bolts around the axle, rather than how it appears, around something where the axle used to be. You'll need to fab or buy new axle pads. Mightn't necessarily be better / safer but it'll have less huh or hhhmmm to it. Chris
Im sure by now youve probably already got your answer, but where you questioned about having a 1/4” gap, you lay your c notches where you have them placed on the picture and trim the 1/4” off the top cover.
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