I think you need to think about it a little more. Short answer: The break-in process mates the 2 rubbing surfaces via a controlled wear process, by providing a protective film between them while the asperities on the surfaces are polished, and a tribo film of anti-wear additives chemically forms on the surfaces to provide a self sacrificing layer. Long answer: If you look at the surfaces of the cam lobes and of the lifter faces under high enough magnification you will see that the surfaces are not smooth but filled with peaks (asperities) and valleys. The anti-wear additives in the oil (ZDDP) will react under temperature to form a gl*** like film that fills in the valleys and is thicker than the height of the asperities. At the same time the peaks of the asperities are folded over or removed, bringing down the average surface roughness (polishing). The unique surfaces of each cam lobe and lifter mate together. Longer answer (skip if you have a short attention span): A certain amount of friction/wear has to occur to generate sufficient heat at the surface to activate the chemicals so they plate out on the surfaces. So some contact has to occur. But if too much contact between the surfaces occurs before the asperities are polished, and before the tribo film develops, then metal transfer between the two surfaces occurs via micro-welding of the asperities in what is known as "adhesive wear". Adhesion's form and the process of failure begins (once it's started, it's just a matter of time, usually not long". That's why the initial wear process has to be controlled. The purpose of the ***embly lube is to provide a protective film to limit the amount of contact and friction during this process, until oil from the oil pan can be pumped up through the oil system and replace the ***embly lube at the point of contact. The purpose of break-in oil is to provide a quick acting anti-wear additive that quickly forms a tribo film at the surfaces. Break-in oil depletes rather quickly, it is not intended for extended service life, just long enough to get a film developed between the rubbing surfaces in the engine during the initial start up. And it contains dispersants, unique additives that are there to disperse wear particles or other contaminants left over from the ***embly process throughout the oil so they can be removed by the oil filter. The reason for running the engine at a medium speed during the initial start is to: 1. get the oil pumped up out of the oil pan and out to the tight clearances as quickly as possible, and 2. to enhance the conditions for hydrodynamic lubrication regime at the point of the cam lobe/lifter face, and also at the point of the piston rings/cylinder interface. ~20 minutes seems to be sufficient time for the break-in described above to occur. https://www.google.com/search?q=hyd...hUni1QKHVYQCwQQsAQIhwE&biw=1920&bih=950&dpr=1
Ok, maybe my answer wasn't as technical, but I think that's basically what I was trying to get across. I fully understand the heat helps, similar to heat tempering steal....I can't explain the reaction that takes place, but realize it does and realize that oil is better for that than water to cool it and make it better. The part I don't want to even argue is the break in oils vs conventional with additive. Mainly because I honestly don't care to research it myself any more than I already have. I do however know several very trust worthy sources that tell me one half dozen the other on a build such as mine. That said, I have to buy oil and since I don't care to learn the complete physics of it all, I'll error on side of caution and thus the reason I'm buying the break in oil for the second time. I'll also likely buy oil such as Lucas hot rod oil going forward because I don't want to chance it and the cost isn't really any more if i order it online vs buy oil from O'Reilly or somewhere. So far, I feel good and actually the machinist made me feel even better, though I am still apprehensive. One question is there any benefit to running longer or shall I just plan to shut her down at 20. Let her cool and drain oil, check and refill?
If you kept the lifters in a way that you can be sure they go back against the same lobe, and there's no visble wear on lobes or lifter faces, you should be OK. If you didn't keep the liftersin a way to be SURE they're back on the same lobe, I would be a bit concerned if the valve spring tension is above stock.I have a piece of 2X4 with holes drilled part way thru with spade drill and the front marked as such that I put lifters in as I remove them.
OK, so now you understand what is going on in that initial run better, or at least the process is clarified better in your mind. You've had questions about what you should use and how you should go forward. My advice would be to start over as if you were firing it up for the first time. Go ahead with the break-in oil, I explained why it's useful above, though I worked for 15 years in the heavy equipment repair business, with factory training from ***mins and International and Komatsu and others. I rebuilt many heavy duty diesel engines myself, and our shop put out many others over the years, we never used any break-in oil, and premature failures due to poor lubrication of new engines was never a problem. But I'm not trying to change your mind, just putting it out there that in the commercial world of heavy duty engine building, engines where the camshaft itself cost more than your entire engine, and the downtime costs are into the thousands of dollars per day, nobody uses special break-in oil. But in your case, considering what the engine has gone through already, I think it's a good idea to give that engine every chance at success, so I wouldn't hesitate to use it. And since you've figured out how to prelube the engine, make sure you do that too before you fire it up. And then give it the full 20 minute break in run. Good luck.
Haven't taken the lifters out since the rebuild, at that point they were basically still new, but when I pulled them, they did go back in same spot. So no worries there. I got a chance to run the priming tool with the gauge hooked up and the pressure is finally back within spec for a 'stock' motor with the melling 55 (NOT HV) pump. I was 25-30psi, pretty quickly and I ran it for about 2min. I pre-primed the pump before installation. I didn't rotate the engine as I'm trying not to rotate more than needed and I figure at this point the engine is already primed.
had that happen on a motor build with a melling oil pump around 1994ish .when the pickup was tack welded on the pump , it messed up the (regulator byp*** ? ) ..inside the oil pump put a new pump on no problems after that
With the new pump and fresh filter and break in oil, I was able to run her for the twenty minutes tonight. Seemed to do well, timing was a bit off, but got that dialed in I believe. Started spitting water from over flow hose two-three times but a few quick squirts with well water seemed to fix that. I'll drain oil tomorrow after cool, unless I should leave for 50 miles or so, and go from there. Appreciative of all the help!
Leave the break in oil in, will do no harm. I leave mine in for 500.00 miles but sometimes change the filter at 100 miles and cut it apart to check for particles.
Look at the Top Fuel guys......they put an engine together with new parts, throw the oil in it and fire it off, then go run it flat out! No break in at all! I've never been to careful on running a new engine. I always seem to put it together out of time, have to turn it over a lot before it hits, then play with the timing. After it's running smoothly, I test drive, if OK, it's ready to go. Usually put at least a few hundred miles on it before I change the oil. I do use a lot of ***embly lube putting one together, and run good oil and filters. Haven't lost one yet....
Haha Top fuel guys need it to hold together for 4 seconds. That's Only 950 Rotations of the engine under load for the burnout and run plus they have a nearly unlimited budget to do it with I've seen engines built while rolling it around on a dirt floor at night with a flashlight and they run like all hell is breaking loose for a long time. On the other hand, seen then ***embled in a million dollar clean room that would rival an operating room and they blow up on the dyno.
I recently had the same thing happen on a 327 engine that had been setting for a while it was in a running car. It had sat for about 25 years. Found out the byp*** in the oil pump was stuck replaced pump no more problems. Thanks Scott
It sounds like the pump is sticking to me I had the same problem with a 350 I had rebuild but didn't use for like 10 yrs but before I ran it I pulled it apart just to make sure it was ok but the oil pump even though it looked fine and the pressure regulator moved just fine once the oil started pumping through it would stick open just enough to blow the filter O- ring out and push the oil everywhere in fact my little brother just has this happen to him in a 355 he built only he lost the motor before he realized he had no oil pressure the motor locked up so I wouldn't take any chances, I'd start with the adapter to make sure theres nothing wrong with it then once u kno it's ok moved to the oil pump, u are correct about the rings and oiling I doubt very much that's ur problem, good luck jmo Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app HotRod Harry
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