I'm doing a 4 link on a '53 Chevy. How do I level the frame front to back to do the Fab work? There is not a good flat ref point. Or do I just set the rake that I want? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's pretty slick ! Where did you get that , are there others? I see the logo but have not seen those drawings
Thanks that was my last weekend project before I dirty it up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You don't necessarily have to level a frame or car to do a rear suspension.It just helps so you can get the brackets , , etc. mounted so they look right, and function properly. Also, it greatly helps, when doing a complete 2x3 frame, like some of our "g***er" friends are planning. Helps even more if have a sturdy ,flat frame jig available. If I was starting with a complete car, I might mock up the height I would like to see, first. You can replace the front springs with a threaded rod deal, and set the front where you like it first. Then roll the rear end and tires under there ,and set the back height too. It's a bit late in your case. You'll have to wing it. A good thing is that you have the rear of the trans where it belongs, still. You can set your opposing U-joint angles as you install the rear suspension. Keep us posted.
If you are worried about the frame having a twist in it, you can use two long broom sticks and lay one across on the front and one on the back and then sight them to see if they line up. Also measure closely from the center of the front cross member to each rear brake drum to be sure they measure the same.
Jack stands.... Front center and rear. use shims as needed to level it front to rear and side to side. Makes measuring things a lot easier when the frame is level to start with. Make sure the floor below the car is level.... Or mark on the floor the distance from frame to floor for reference. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That plan is really nice but it's also really straight. Where the level is is about the straightest part of the frame (Do y'all agree?????) I'm ready to start working and stop talking and I think I've measured enough. Speak now or forever hold your pease. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Side to side is more important than front to back. Front and rear both level and no twist. The rake isn't so important for leveling, you could build it flat propped up against a tree. I'd actually probably set it at ride height with the actual tires to be used being level and solid struts in place of the shocks. You could tape equal size blocks to each end of the level and dodge obstacles, like the drive shaft.
Awful big C-section for the frame notch. Why do you need so much? I ***ume you'll weld it in before cutting. I'd get those springs out of there, and support the rear frame horns to the floor, and X ed. You don't want any surprises when you go to set the body back on there.
Like the old saying goes.... Measure twice, cut once. You should be checking and rechecking measurements with each step. Keeps things nice, straight and square. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
On a frame modification of scratch build I spent most time measuring. Getting metal from point A to point B is pretty quick. Establishing where Point B should be or creating point B takes a bit.
Gambino taildragger on a '53 Chevy https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Gambino-taildragger-on-a-'53-Chevy.1059773/ In case you wanna see updates Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Okay, I can figure out the tail dragger part, but who's Gambino? I thought we were talking about a 4 link racing suspension here. This is more like a diagonal four trailing arm deal . Yes? Again, that Terminology thing...
Yes it a "4 link taildragger airbag set up" make by Gambino Kustoms Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Gambino is Alex Gambino of Gambino Kustoms. HAMB Alliance vendor and his notch kit is very well known in the custom '49-'54 Chevy crowd. As for the four link, I guess technically it should be called a triangulated four bar rear suspension. But when someone says Gambino tail dragger, most folks here would tend to know that means a notch kit and triangulated four bar from Gambino Kustoms. Hope that helps clarify and doesn't come across too cranky
No, not at all, bud. Sounds familiar with Alex in front. I just didn't know what he did, specifically. So, this is instead of the traditional lowering blocks, I guess. Then you let all the air out at the cruise nights, and listen to the comments from the uninitiated , right? ;-)
Pretty much. A Gambino notch out back and a mustang ii "ultra low" front crossmember from Fatman Fabrications all on airbags will allow a car like this to "lay frame" (frame touching the ground when aired out) but will still allow the car to be driven when aired up. Definitely not as traditional as a static drop with lowering blocks, but fairly common setup anymore.
Thanks. Really hadn't dealt with air ride, since original 1958 GM cars. I did see some mini-trucks hoppin' and boppin' around about 20 years ago :-(
Just a thought here for ya. Before ya start. When I was working on my A frame I leveled it while on jack stands. And then used turnbuckles mounted to the bottom of the frame and into the concrete floor to hold it in place. That kept the frame from moving on the stands as I was clamping and working on it. And stepping over it.
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