Anti Theft fuel pump cut off, battery kill switch

Thanks for a link to the fuel valve, I think I'll likely get that outdid so I can wire it in while I'm redoing my fuel lines and tank.

As for having a trigger that needs to be activated, such as turning on the hi-beams, to activate the S terminal of the starter, am I correct in this wiring of the relay....

85 would be the ground
30/51 would be to battery fused
87 would be to the S terminal
86 would be the trigger or in this case from the dimmer switch.

Is that correct? I suppose it could be anything....left or right turn signal, wipers, the list could go on.

I've even thought monetary ****on strategically placed, could be in conjunction with the above even.

In my opinion things like a shutoff in a trunk, etc are great when parking for long periods of time, but I'm looking for ideas that are easy to implement when running to the store, etc. Especially if my wife decides to drive it, which she swears she gets to do.... I just know she won't go through to much trouble, so it needs to be something she has to do, like crank and hold down a monetary ****on. If I'm not mistaken if wired to headlights and you don't actively turn the hi-beams off after start, the circuit would essentially be left open the next time.

 

No, that will make it crank without turning key switch just by turning on your trigger. Just run the "start" wire through the relay, in at #30, out at #87 then on to starter solenoid or starter relay.

 

For the hot wire to your stereo memory.......FUSE IT! That wire has to run a long ways, and will start a fire if it's not fused, and gets grounded out somehow.

No-start security.....six dash-mounted toggles, labelled "security combination". Nothing else.......have three of them wired into the circuit of your choice. The thief will be there all day trying to get the right combo of off/on.

Roger

 

Yes hard to drive but not impossible all they need is a good pair of vise grips, lock them on and ur in business my uncle use to steer his 64 Chevy this way one time when his steering wheel popped f going down the highway lol just a thought lol


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Most car thieves can steal anything if they want it bad enough a wheel boot works good one on front and one on back plus the cut off switches to the ele and fuel usually will make them look but move on they're usually looking to steal something easy to take they don't like it when they half to do a lot of work my buddy use to remove his wheels when he was leaving it like for winter it was g. going on vacation he'd lock them up in his house but unfortunately if they want it or need it bad enough they will fallow u waiting for the right moment to drive off with ur ride I wish there was some way of hurting those who steal for a living without killing them just enough for them to say "fu#k this" lol and move on lol


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There are many good ways of slowing someone down from stealing your car and many of the idea's mentioned will slow down someone hell bent on stealing you car.

GPS devices have come way down in price and many are very small and will fit in your pocket!!!

These devices are installed in laptops, cell phones and just about anything else you can think of.
I would have one or more kill switches along with the removable steering wheel and even one or two different types of GPS devices hidden within the car.
Here in Florida just in the car club I used to belong to we had many guys who left there home for 1 hour to come to find their complete race trailer with their drag car inside stolen from behind their home.

It's up everyone how you spend your money but to spend 50 grand building a car and then getting cheap when it comes to protecting you car is crazy to me!!

Just my opinion. Jimbo

 

So, instead of running 30 to 12v constant, run it to the Run wire at ignition switch. The rest the same?
aka...
85 Ground
86 Trigger
87 S wire on starter
30 Run/start wire

Thanks

 

Yes, start on ignition switch to 30, 87 to S on starter (through a neutral safety switch also if automatic).

 

@24riverview - am I correct this relay setup will not stop a thief from push-starting a manual trans car?

 

I don't see how a byp*** on the S terminal at starter would stop a push-start, but if you were to do something similar with the distributor, it should.

 

I spoke with a 'tech' at US Solid regarding their electric solenoid valves and here is what I learned, so curious about some feedback.

If I go with a Normally Closed Valve they are not rated to be run for more than 8hrs straight, seems to be the standard. The issue is the coils are more prone to failure if left energized that long. IF that coil burns out, it will default to the state the valve is designed to be in, which in the above case is normally closed. The issue that comes to mind is that if driving around town/highway/etc and that valve fails, you're stranded on side of road or in traffic....not good. With a Normally Open Valve, it would fail in the open position, hence no issues if failure while driving.

If my understanding of the reason for normally closed is to keep the valve from draining a battery or something, then does it really matter IF you were to wire the solenoid into, let's say the Run Circuit, maybe incorporate a relay to do so. With this, if I'm correct you'd do two things....1) the valve would only require engery to close it, so less wear/tear on the valve as you would only de-energize it long enough to kill it, which would be when car is turned off anyway and no power would be supplied at that time. Only way it would be left energized for any length of time is IF you left it in closed position and car in Run, which obviously wouldn't be for long on purpose as you wouldn't be going anywhere due to lack of closed valve and no fuel flow. 2) wouldn't matter if there is power or not when you flip the switch off, because if you turn it off even with the car off (No Power to energize it) it would just flip closed as soon as you start the car/put it into the Run position. I suppose it could be wired to accessory, start, etc...maybe one of those would be better anyway....thoughts? My logic is that if you flipped it closed, again even with car off and no power to activate it, as soon as you turn key into one of the above positions, it should give it enough flash of power to energize and either close or open the switch.

Does my rambling logic make sense?

Then the next part is the 3/8" valve is out for a while do to a flaw that had US Solids pull it to fix the issue. It was Normally Closed anyway. The other thing that worries me is that I believe the 3/8" valve only flows 40some gallons per hour, my pump is capable of 60's and doubt I'd ever hit those numbers, but.... They do 1/2" valves that will work, but I'd have to reduce down to 3/8", so bit of extra cost for valve and fittings, but minimal. The 1/2" valve flows 4.8 gallons per minute which equates to 288 gallons per hour, so it's definitely overkill!

Only issue I see is it is Nitrile Rubber gasket and I read somewhere you want Viton Gasket, which I think the 3/8" has. Thought the person I spoke with said it was Viton, but Amazon lists as Nitrile, i'll look that up.

Thoughts here??

 

A link to the valve in question.
https://www.amazon.com/Br***-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Normally/dp/B00DQ2BSUA/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493239937&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=us+solid+1/2+normally+open+solenoid+valve#feature-bullets-btf

I googled Nitrile and Viton. Though Viton is actually better(recommended) with Gasoline, Nitrile is just a step below and gas has a minor to moderate effect on it. The thing that does look promising is that Nitrile is better at lower temps. It seems that Viton is prone to failer, due to hardness at -15*C, which is 5*F. I live in Kansas and 5*F is common in winter months!