Technical 1962 Ford Galaxie 500 Hellbound Glory

Hello everyone I have a bunch of questions but I will get one problem at a time solved with help from all the brilliant builders on this great page.

my brakes failed when I last had her on road and at 2miles an hour I slide in to a guard rail whole driver side re construction. So no rust all still oem steel parts she's back and painted flat black with gun metal metallic roof.

Now I upgraded to an alternator with a external reg new reg. And wiring up three toggles and push button from new blade style fuse boxes . I have ran 8 gauge power wire to fuse box in newly created center console with integrated aftermarket stereo and 6.5 mid range speakers. Now I am only going to get rid of yellow wire with new 8 gauge wire and tap all the old wires from fuse box but having trouble hooking toggles and push button as new ignition don't have original any more. I included a horrible drawing but im ironworker not an artist. That is how i think it would work.

Sorry for Winded post just excited to tell anyone about her. This is my first build ever and I'm close to driving her . Also she will be tore down again after summer cause I have learned so much and she will be rebuilt even better just want to enjoy her this year been 2years thanks

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

 

I'm going to shoot straight with you. Wire that car up right with a correct keyed switch, it's not a B17 or even a race car. Get the 1962 Galaxie shop manual (it's really a good one and worth the money) , find the right parts and wire that car up right.

 

Neat old cars. My first car at 16 was a 62.

 

I would forego this ass-backwards wiring schematic you have and do the job right. I know Fords are dumb with the fuse in the back of the head light switch, but new Rebel harnesses are less than $200 delivered. Bullet connectors, shrink wrap, etc., can all be had at Harbor Freight on the cheap. It's time consuming, but not prohibitively expensive to wire the car the right way, especially since the factory Ford manual is only going to get you so far with the different charging system and aftermarket stuff you want to add. Wiring is not something I take lightly, especially since it's one of the main reason cars burn, and possibly take the house/garage with them.

That's a neat car though, you've obviously got a lot of work in it. Do it right the first time.

 

I have a complete wiring harness coming but I am not able to keep original wires when it's done. With electric fans electric fuel pump , air ride suspension and aftermarket amps. Yes I know wiring is important I want nothing wired incorrectly or with out fuses and it will be neat and tidy but still would like a little help I realize my artwork of a wiring print is bloody terrible but the point is there I have the wiring for this car but my wires under dash where hacked . I have all insulated flexible wire and connectors and crimper and solder, shrink wrap, isolators and all switches and fuses panels cause the bus bar hooked to my headlight switch is not enough

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

 

I have a 62 xl 2 dr ht.I used a REBEL 12 CIRCUIT IN MY CAR.They are good harnesses.I also put one in my 56 Vicky.

 

It's a given that the condition of the car's wiring is a disaster after 55 years. I think you are over thinking it or maybe even under thinking it.
I was a Fire Captain and we had to maintain and sometimes design wiring for emergency vehicles. All of them were different. Here's what most of them had in common...
Each vehicle had the factory harmess to run the vehicle. Each vehicle used an auxiliary harness to run all the emergency lights, scene lights, radio chargers and a host of other stuff. Of course,power was supplied by the vehicle to this extra stuff through the use of relays, bus bars, fuse boxes and switches.
So...
I suggest you reapair the car's wiring and then add on your auxillies. I think you are trying to incorporate all of these systems together. I know it may sound more complicated, doing the car then adding a circuit or circuits for the auxiliaries, but it's really simpler.

 

Which is why I said to abandon a "factory" harness and go the aftermarket route with a Rebel/Painless/American Autowire/etc., harness, which will have circuits and fuses for aftermarket stuff like an electric fuel pump, air conditioning, etc., already built in. You're straying so far from factory it doesn't make sense to even try to utilize a factory harness or anything resembling it. Just rip everything out and start totally from scratch. You can still use your stock headlight and ignition switch, you just won't need to run the whole rest of the car through it.

 

I was really hoping to go build my own custom wiring harness I have to fuse panels one for always live and one switched which I feed with an 6 Guage power wire from my new starter solenoid. I have a in-line fuse for my alternator and the line that feeds the actual fuse panel. I was going to relay my first toggle and my start button. I m just hoping someone could say if my little drawing if they can read it makes sense. Currently when I try to turn over it goes to kick then stops like I tripped something . Possible ground?

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk