So - never had a truck without a complete wheel hub assembly. Doing a dakota 2wd spindle replace. The bearings (front and rear ) are tapered roller bearings. Kinda look like this. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taper...dia/File:Tapered-roller-bearing_din720_ex.png But - I believe the rotor already has the tapered race machined into inside of rotor. means the outer cover/race of the bearing (same as pic) gets thrown away. At least that's what it looks like. 1) Sound right ? 2) Where would you find this info out generally ? Would a service manual show this or not ? 3) Do you have to use a heat tolerant grease ? I just have some grease for doing balljoints ....... specific grease ? Thanks.
Doesn't sound right. Usually tapered bearings come as a set, with the race. Might be something new to cut cost, but it doesn't make sense that if you have a bearing failure you have to change the entire rotor. Service manual or other maintenance book should cover it. Any auto supply will have wheel bearing grease.
The outer race is pressed into the rotor/hub. It can be knocked out with a long punch. This setup has been around a lot longer than the throw away hub assemblies they use now. Use lube labeled...... Bearing grease. Could be what's in your grease gun. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Seems like the tapered race is already in the rotor/hub assembly so don't need to use the one with the bearing .... Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's a new rotor/hub.... Not the old one obviously Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Lots of vehicles have the hub and brake disc in one piece. The bearing race is pressed in. Older cars have a hub with separate disc or drum. Your service manual should have the info or check out some videos on Youtube. High temp grease is what you need. Wheel bearing grease or all purpose grease as long as it will stand up to high temps.
Hi Dont have a service manual as its just the dakota IFS going into a 57 Panel. Was more curious where you generally find this info at that detail. Been on youtube but none exactly match this setup that I could find. So - the race is already pressed in from factory right - meaning I can just throw away the race that came with the bearing and pack/seat the bearing and the bearing dust cap.
Hey Pork ........ but its brand new assembly (that pic is how it came) ....... thats the part that's confusing me. Why would they press in a race ..... if you weren't meant to use it ? *shrug*.
Production tolerances. It will work, but why not do it right? The bearings and cups (race) are a matched set, then you know it's going to be right.
Did the bearing come with the hub? or was it purchased separate? The deal is that the material that a bearing race is made from would be cost prohibitive to make a hub from. If you look close you can see that the race is a separate piece. But being a new part I would be sure that the race that came with the bearing is going to fit the hub and that the bearing itself matches the existing race. Make sense?
Makes sense and was my initial thought ........ except ...... I might damage the hub wall knocking it out. Plus tehn I started thinking - well why would they put it in there if it wasnt meant to be used.
Bearing was purchased seperate. basically Rockauto - 93 HUB and then bought matching inner and outer bearings. Makes sense. More concerned in damaging the hub pressing or knocking it out ......... but the bearing seems to fit well in either. Probbaly making a mountain out of a molehill here ..........
I always ask when I am second guessing myself. If it makes you feel any better, I got a friend in new York that is a Harley Mechanic. I do a certain amount of work on Vintage Harleys. Sometimes I think I am getting ready to do something wrong so I call and ask him. Last time we spoke he said,"Benno you wear me out man. How long have I known you? 40 years? Just do it like you have been doing it for the last 40 years and if you screw it up call me." Never hurts to get a second opinion. Oh I started to say that the hub was probably supposed to come with the bearing and for whatever reason it didn't.
Thanks again guys and PorknBeaner. Never been to Raytown - my family is from Chillicothe MO (NE of you) ..... way. Yeah generally most of this stuff is new to me (hotrod/custom). I find once you do it once its not too bad ....... but when there's any variation to what you thought you knew ... if google or youtube doesnt have an answer - straight here !!! thanks guys
Oh, it will work. A lot of folks never bother to replace the bearing cups, just the tapered bearing, over and over, because it's an extra step and a pita. A wheel sure turns smooth if ya do, though. The preload is going to have a lot more tolerance too. One thing about bearings. It depends a lot on where they are made, the quality of materials. They can last a LONG time if they are made of good stuff and repacked and adjusted correctly now and then. Lately though, there has been a flood of really crappy bearings. SKF are usually or often made in Japan. Timken used to be US made, Romania even made some decent ones for a while. I don't dislike furriners but sometimes ya get what ya pay for.
Most likely that inner race will work with your bearing but I almost always change them out for the one that came with the bearing.
During a brake job the rotor often gets replaced but not the bearing. New race is in hub/rotor. When you change bearings it's good to install race that came with the bearing regardless of new rotor or old. Have fun.
I work at O'Reillys and all our rotors come with the races installed . We sell bearings witout a race for this purpose. Unless changing it makes you feel warm and fuzzy it will be fine to use the one in the hub. Most people just reuse the old bearing. But that is up to you. If it's a good bearing keep it and clean and reuse it with new grease. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You guys are making this hard. From the picture I can see that is a new brake rotor, and a new bearing, in other words you have everything new so there is no reason to swap bearing races. Note to Beaner, my Dad, Don Perry, spent his formative years running all over KC, one day we were rolling down the highway and he pointed out the side window and said, "If you want to live long and do well, stay the hell out of Raytown". Dad never said why, maybe you know.
I think it's been said before, but forget my aging mind. Here;s the deal, if you buy a new bearing/outer race assy, it's matched...plain and simple...what you do not do is use (sorry O'Rielyguy) is use an older/different/etc, bearing with a new race...ya just don't do that. So, if the hub assy came with just a race an no bearing, what you do is buy a race/bearing assy, knock out the race in the hub, knock your new race in, pack the bearing, follow procedures...(disconnect neg battery cable, wear safety glasses, sell your third born)...and put things together the right way. Simple chit..the ONLY time that I've ever seen a different scenario, is in in big trucks...i/e Petes, KW's, etc, where you can buy a bearing, or you can buy a race separate, but you are in the real automotive world, use the matched set, and get on down the road. Now I see why P and B have that AV Pic thing
Bullshit they are not matched. They are pulled off the line and packaged together. There is no way each bearing is matched to the race. And if the bearing is good no need to replace it. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Leave the races in the new rotor. In the hundreds I have changed out they were fine with new and old bearings. Pack the bearing with grease and put it together. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I will dis agree with the statement that bearings are not matched bearings. You can not mix brands of bearings, meaning the use of one brand bearing with another brand of race. Brands match the tolerance between their mating parts. I work on many pumps, gearboxes and what not. And have attended many classes on the subject.
Raunchy is right. Common tapered roller bearings are cheap precisely because they are not matched. A matched bearing will assemble to a very closely controlled overall thickness as measured from the back side of the outer race to the face of the flange on the inner race. Common production bearings can have an assembled height that varies by a few thousandths, hence the need for having some means of adjusting the end play. If you ever run into a situation that requires a matched set of tapered rollers, you'll find out how much that match costs. Last time I ran across such a critter was several years ago on the input shaft of a speed reducer. Pair of bearings about the size of a typical inner wheel bearing. $245 for the pair. Bigger problem was that they were not in stock anywhere in the country and it would be a few months before Timken was scheduled to run some for the replacement market as they had no customers currently using the bearings on a production basis.. One of their engineers gave me a part number for a common bearing that could be used to produce the special, and the required overall height it needed to be ground to. That finished height needed to be held to +/- .0001" to duplicate the original matched bearing sets. About $40 for the pair of bearings and then I had another $100 or so in shop time for measuring, setup, and grinding to the right height.
Wow..... Never had a problem. Never had any instructor in the many many classes I attended at Ford say to never mix brands. If it was a cardinal sin then why would every manufacturer of rotors spend the time and money installing them and then not put a warning on the box telling you what brand races they installed. There are far too many old wife tales told. Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Check out a HD 9028 some time.(Left side tapered Main bearing for big twins 1969-02)For years they came with a paper in the box that said "WARNING this is a matched bearing assembly do not mix parts in this bearing assembly".There is a center spacer in the assembly that CAN be changed. HD makes those spacers from .095" to ;120" in increments of .002" so you can correct endplay due to production tolerance.
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