Hot Rods Chevy drum question

adjustment

 

OK, thanks all.I will take the drums into the shop and see what they say about turning.After that I will form a plan.

 

http://www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm

Reverse the rust. It does work.

 

Just brushed, not as bad as I thought. A little pitting.

 

so, you haven't taken the bearings out and inspected them?

 

One thing at a time, brother family day today, escaping to the garage when I can, haha.

 

No need to remove the rivets or drums from the hubs unless you have wheels that are flat on the back and don't have enough recess to clear the rivets. I had to knock them off my drums/hubs when I put the mags on my 48.
I think there is a year change somewhere where the car drums bolt directly on using the truck backing plates but what year eludes me. After the change the car drums are supposed to fit the truck backing plates and shoes and before the change they don't an you have to use the car backing plates to make it work
I have always used the matching car backing plates when I swapped drums so you need to check and make sure that the drums cover the whole shoe of the brakes and never tried it with truck backing plates.

If you use the car backing plates there are a couple of steps to do to fit them up. The "fitting involves drilling two new holes in each backing plate to match the truck spindles and making spacers which becomes self explanatory when you fit things up and put the top bolts in.

 

51-54 car hub/drum fits 51-59 trucks

 

51-58 drums are the SAME for p***enger cars. The Tri-Five guys used to swap to "newer" front hubs to get roller/tapered bearings; I'm not sure what year the change was (early 60's), but virtually ALL the Tr-Five vendors sell complete front hub kits to convert to roller/tapered bearings. I have NO idea if squirrel's suggestion also takes the same bearings, BUT with the interest in 50's Chevrolet trucks, I'll bet there's a vendor that DOES supply a kit. Drums are still available new. Cold chisel, or a power chisel, to the rivets, and knock them out. Probably best to use new studs due to missing and/or rusted ones anyways. Post your location in your avatar; someone local may be able to help you. I could have given you a pair of used drums as an example. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Those drums were also used on rear brakes on full size chevys through 1970....

 

Those drums have a steel disk with a cast rim Just heat the area a 1/2 inch or so around the hub red hot and let them cool and the drums should come right off after the rivets are out.