Technical Painting a chassis your approach more than welcome

After filing the welds I had the frame blasted then I put it in epoxy, added a little bondo on the welds, then sealed, base coat, and clear coat.

 

I did this frame with the Eastwood Satin Black 2k Ceramic Frame Paint and appropriate prime. Layed out pretty nice with a Horrible Freight HVLP gun. Only thing I would do different would be to get a gun thats 1.8mm. The 1.4mm had a tendency to drip from plugging the tip some...

 

what we use on the semi trailers ( flats and dumps) is we first remove any rust mechanically ( usssually sand.slag blasting . then we use ace hardware rust red primer and let it sit 2 days after painting we diluted it for spray . ( combination brush for tight spots and backs of brackets and sprayed for large areas ), then we use a industrial alykd enamel ( ace sells this at there stores ) , some trailers was gloss , some were dulled down with a satin additive, and then the brush and spray let it sit for a day then second coat them , and then we let them sit for a week in the sun to dry , many of them still have the paint on them and its been 10 years since I painted some . and the dumps they saw quarry/salt transfer duty .

 

I've used POR-15 with great results. Cut the edges with a foam brush, and roll the flat areas with a foam roller. It looks sprayed on and is super durable.


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Another vote for good old Rustoleum , foam roller, and a decent brush.
1 quart will do a frame easily, then spray the suspension parts.
Sometimes I'll do the frame flat, and other stuff gloss.

 

Eastwood chassis black and a bristle brush. Levels out well and is easy to repair.


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I will be doing the frame on my '55 Thunderbird. I have been told that the POR15 gets rock hard and is a PITA if you try to sand / scuff it. I would think if I used POR15 that I would have to grind it to do any rework / mods. Opinions?

 

I've not been impressed with the results of anything done with POR15.

I use Valspar Anti-Rust paint, usually brushed on. If its in the direct sun, some colors will fade a bit, that will become very apparent if you need to touch it up, but the black seems to hold up well. If your not in direct sunlight (or its not above 80) when you apply it, the paint will level out pretty well. Gene

 

And Left over House of Kolor , applied anywhere and everywhere...

 

I use PPG ALK 200 its an industrial coating easy to apply with a brush or you can spray it but watch out for overspray. Its inexpensive and very durable direct to metal and covers in one coat. comes in a wide variety of colors its always held up great for me

 

I used John Deere Blitz Black with Valspar hardener over my sand blasted and etch primed frames. Looks nice and holds up real well.

Gary

 

SPI black epoxy primer sprayed with a turbine sprayer. 70 bucks for 2 sprayable quarts.

 

I´m using Mipalin , it´s and industrial grad paint and made for machinery, agricultural vehicles and trucks / trailers. It is easy to spray or brush on, and is very heat and scratch resistant, plus it is cheap. I paint all my engines and chassis with it, if you get a chip on the chassis, just touch it up with a brush.
Last I did was this frame and engine...

 

I did my 35 frame similar to Blake27 above. This time around the 46 frame will be powder coasted after I clean it up. Too much work otherwise. Pretty resilient and easy to clean.

 

I did a couple of frames with DP 90 and they have held up well for thousands of miles.

 

SPI black epoxy primer.

 

This one of those things that you need to consider pretty hard. You're all the way down to the bare frame and it's never going to be a second bite at the apple. I'm in the 2 engine stands plan too. Spraying a frame isn't that hard from there. And too, it's a frame so cut and buff isn't involved. As to "tricks", well there's always that guy's project you see the bare running frame before the car and the top of it is awesome, yet the bottom, not so much from over spray or peel from fallout. To avoid it I finished them upside down, in the view it's going to be seen from now on. Dry spots and over spray are a bitch to manage, although not impossible. All work done, things fitted, welded, metal finish, then blasted, 2 coats of epoxy, a cpl hr break, straight to paint. "Modern" cars like from the 50s up, I know you said forget powder, but those are the powder candidates. There's a "chassis black" powder with the right OEM gloss. Cheaper than paint and nearly forever. I guess if it's down to the bare frame it's a serious project. In my world there's very little use for brush work on big stuff. The bottom of the old 30s bodies where the wood shows is about all we'll brush.

 

I did my Ford from the trans cross member forward. Took it down to bare steel as mush as possible, wiped it down with lacquer thinner and shot some VHT roll cage & chassis satin black on it. Going on 3 years and it has held up and is easy to touch up, the new blends in with the old nicely. I got a good deal on 6 cans at Amazon for around $7 a can, speed shop wants $10 to $11 a can.

 

I'm not the biggest fan of por-15 and it's not because of its performance. If you have to repair or change something you can't get the stuff off and clogs up your sand paper a sap . I guess it is doing what it's supposed to do , but I use chassis black or lacquer over Dp-40 or 90

 

I never really expected much response or this much information. This old cat has been skinned nine ways to Sunday.

I love seeing how other people do things.

 

In the old days, on my fender-less cars, I used Rustoleum red primer with Rustoleum gloss black over it - all rattle cans. Over time you could use rubbing compound and wax to make the highly visible places really shine.
On race chassis I use VHT epoxy chassis paint for the ability to do repairs and touch-ups easily. It has an interesting race car look that is not too flat and not too glossy.
I've been using Krylon Rust Tough in rattle cans for the last few years. It sticks like crazy even in places you can't prep well, the Semi-Flat black looks right as chassis black and it's so durable - I painted the front of the frame on my F100 ten years ago and it still washes up easily and looks great.

 

There is a powder coating business near me that will sandblast and powder coat a 30's era frame and components for around $400. The time and materials involved to properly clean and paint a frame make it a no brainer. I've done 4 cars this way, and was always happy with the results.
Dave

 

Still use quarts of Rustoleum rolled and brushed on HEAVY for frames, but "Krylon" in a rattle can (IMO) is much better than Rustoleum in spray cans- I have had a horrible time with Rustoleums "new, improved" nozzle dribbling and not working after the first use. They do back their product though- if you have a receipt and send the code # off the bottom of the can, you'll get a full refund!

 

In Idaho I can have a frame powder coated for $200. Cheaper than i can buy paint. Drop it off and pick it up the next day and no POR15 on my body and clothes forever.

 

I had the same problems with Rustoleum in spray cans and I don't have the patience to do returns/refunds so it's Krylon or VHT for me now. I do occasionally use brush-on black Rustoleum on engines though.
Here's Krylon Rust Tough Semi-flat black on the chassis and suspension;
Rustoleum Canvas white on the firewall;

 

My buddy just told me of a local joint that has a similar deal ,sandblast and powder coat spring special for 400 bucks. I wish I had something to bring them : }

 

The powdercoat prices quoted here are really reasonable compared to what they charge around here.
And I have no patience when shit I paid good money for doesn't work, but at 5 plus bucks a can sometimes "a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do" ( John Wayne)

 

I am a fan of the rattle can ,cheap cleans up easily many colors and even comes in lacquer

 

I used some Eastwood Chassis Black about 20 years ago; still looks great. For my current project (53 Ford) I'm trying Por15. I did the inside floor with a brush. Went on easy. I might be able to find an old gun, and spray the underside. I just want it to look clean. This stuff seems to stick to anything.

It all depends on the application. There is a time and place where a little "spray bomb" work does the trick.


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Brushed a frame with Chassis Black. Left the frame outside and it faded and turned chalky


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