How can I straighter a 21 model A wheel A nice how to would be great [FONT="]Can I use a press? [/FONT]
I've heard that you can heat/shrink various spokes to straighten them and I saw a wheel straightening lever device/contraption today at Brent-in-10-uh-C's shop. Imagine a wheel mounted on a hub - opposite that is a fulcrum point - both the hub point and fulcrum point are attached to a U-shaped frame. A long lever across the fulcrum pushes against the rim to straighten it. A picture would be easier - maybe PM Brent?
And search on Ahooga and Fordbarn--there have been threads on wheel straightening and on spoke straightening. They show both 1920's actual commercial straightening devices (big stands like a tire changer) and modern improvisations.
Hey Simon We just finished doing a 3-day Workshop here at the shop for 77 Fordbarn.com guys from all over the country and I honestly ain't in the mood to do a tech how-to at this moment but the short of it is this. You can use a press however the wheels will not stay unless the spokes are shrunk back into tension. The first thing that must be done is remove any eggshape or out-of-roundness by working (heat & shrink) the X between the main section and the rim. You can find this fault by installing the wheel on your truck and barely jacking the wheel up off the ground. As you spin it, the worst portion will show up as almost touching the floor. With this area at the very bottom, let a little tension off of the jack until the rim is in contact with the floor. The weight of the truck will aid in the straightening process. This will allow slight pressure and you can shrink the two crossing spokes. Keep this up until the wheel is round. Next, deal with the lateral movement by placing an aersol can on the floor and spinning the wheel. Start heating & shrinking the area further-est away drawing it near until it is alignment. It takes time and practice, so don't get frustrated if you do not see something happening immediately. We have done some that could be completed in an hour and some that have taken 4 or 5 hours to do the job correctly.
So do you quench the the X spokes with water or do you just let it cool down Do you use a hammer and a bit of wood to move the rim? thanks
You guys know coker sells those new right? For 4 or 5 hours worth of work I would just get new ones. Jimmy
You guys know that those new ones are not correct in all details, right? You guys also know that it doesn't take that kind of time to do them correctly, ...right?? Just like anything else, there is usually better wheels (than what you have) out there and available if you are willing to pay the price.
Whats different about them? I've personally never seen one in person that I know of, but they look pretty close in pictures.
I guess it would be best if you could see them side-by-side to note the spoke shape differences and etc. Another way to look at this would be that most people here could care less about exacting reproductions so "close" may be OK. In my line of work, sometimes that can be an issue.
Brent - any indication would be great So do you quench the the X spokes with water or do you just let it cool down Do you use a hammer and a bit of wood to adjust the lateral movement of the rim? I like your web site - you look very busy thanks
Rarely will you ever find a rim that is bent outward. Most of them have been "curbed" where the spoke that attaches closest to the hubcap has been stretched. The first thing you need to do is determine whether the rim is "egg-shaped". If it is, you can use the weight of the vehicle to assist in repairing this. With the wheel mounted onto the front end of a vehicle (without the tire attached), spin the wheel. If the vehicle is jacked up about 1/8th inch off of the floor, you should be able to spin the rim. If it touches somewhere, place that area against the concrete and put just a small amount of vehicle weight onto the rim. Heat the two spokes (the "X") hot enough until they will sizzle when water is sprayed onto them. This will cause them shrink ever so slightly. You must not over-shrink them so go slowly. If you are very close but just need a tad more, then use compresssed air to cool them. Then with the egg-shape corrected, you can adjust lateral runout by using a can to reference the runout and spinning the rim again. A ratchet strap attached to the opposite side spring perch, and then attached at the bottom of the rim will allow you to make an inward pull while you heat to relieve the spoke tension, --and shrinking a spoke will pull a rim back into alignment. I do have a machine that does this but since most people do not have that many wheels to do, it is easier to go about it this way.
I have a couple 19th that are out of whack don't know if its worth fixing them are just buying two new ones Buying new is in my budget but didn't know what the quality of the new ones are does anyone have an opinion
Might be better to start a new thread for something like this, rather than resurrecting a 10-year-old-one.
The Jalopy Journal
