Is anyone running their rear axle behind the spring? Any problem with that setup? I know I've seen it but I've never asked about it.
Works for me - more discussions here, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97651&highlight=spring
If it's a banjo why hide it? http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=106803&img=DSC02623.JPG http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=121859&img=Picture.jpg
It's the only way to do a modified, IMHO. It works just as good as the original config, but you will need to swap the axle housings side to side, and move the crossmember forward about four inches.
I swapped the axle housings side to side (be sure to replace the outer grease seals while it's apart), put the crossmember where I wanted it, & went to welding. Had to make my own upper & lower shock mounts. Shocks were '70 Chevy PU 2wd front shocks. It's hard to beat a bare banjo out back. Let us know if you have questions. JH
Excellant pictures! Why does the rear end get swapped end to end? This is close to the set up I would like to put together on my project. Is the swap done if you are using the factory brackets and wishbone? Don't worry what the tag line says, I'm still a newbie!!
I guess its not exactly the same since it has a turtle deck and all but the Isky T is set up that way, with a 32 rear spring.
This is what I thought, but before I made the commitment, I thought I'd ask. Second question... What spring are you guys using. I'm running a Model A crossmember with a '39 rearend. Model A spring or '39 spring? The perches seem like theyll be too far apart for the Model A spring, but the '39 spring, of course, doesn't want to conform to the curve of the Model A cossmember. Also, I'm going to leave the rear cross member where it is and lengthen the wheelbase. I'm going for a little more of a saltflats or dry lakes look. Plus I'm running some high gears for top end, and want some stability at 120mph. Thanks!
I think you can spread the Model A spring, it will give you a little more drop. If you need more height, run a T spring. I've seen later springs double-clamped into early crossmembers but they never look right.
I used a Model A spring. IMHO, it's the only way to go in an A crossmember. Can't for the life of me remember how I spread it & got it mounted. I can tell you I did in the garage with basic tools though. JH
In relation to this subject, Does the rear spring need to be perpendicular to the ground? or can it be canted at a slight angle along with the rake of the chassis? Kind of how front springs conform to the front crossmember's caster angle.
Kirk my 30 tudor is running a nine inch rear end with the model a leaf spring stacked on top of it. I can run highway speeds in Los Angels with some hopping of the rear end when I hit the biggest drop offs and pot holes. On smooth pavment the c-dan runs like a champ. The problem which I figured out while my friends were driving behind me is that the A is to light in the rump. I have no wieght added to the back to hold things down. Ask some questions and I will shoot you what I know.
Devin...the set up I have is perpendicular to the ground. I have no channel body on my 30. I am guessing that's why you are asking the question. I do not know if thats the way it must be set up, but thats my set up.
if you haven't reversed the rear spring eyes you can just buy a spreader, providing you can clear the rear axle housing. (or i can see if i can get one for you to borrow). if that doesn't work, unbolt the whole spring so all the leaves are separate. flatten the main leaf out until it bolts up to the eyes. Then restack the rest of the leaves on there. (with either the c-clamp method or the really long bolt through the whole collections)
The reason why I'm asking this question is that with my tire combination, the crossmember is tilted forward about 3 - 5 degrees. I'd rather not have to reposition the crossmember if it isn't necessary.
This is how I'm setting mine up. The axle's not as pretty as a banjo but it was cheap(free) and so am I. -stick
I used a T spring, in the A crossmember. It's softer than an A, didn't need much spreading either - just the right length. In the absence of a spreader, I took it apart, put the main leaf on, and rebuilt the spring in place.
It may be a T truck spring. Same spread static as the '37 spring was, required the same 2" stretch to fit. It's narrower than the rearend perches and the shackles had to be shimmed with about a 1/4" (slices of bronze bushing) on each side. Tried the stock 37 spring, not enough clearance for a practical driver. http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=120537&img=DSC01376.JPG
In regards to how to spread the spring to attach to the perches, I always just use my porta-power with the wedge ends, works great, and also my experience with "A" verses "T" springs is that the "T" spring is higher but not as wide so when the "T" spring is spread to reach the stock (as in 39) perches it will reach but ends up giving you a lower ride height than with an "A" spring. I learned this the hard way on my T rpu and ended up replacing the T spring with a stock model A spring.
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