Yeah, what a stupid design. Never put one together but took one apart with a stuck motor. Had to pull the crank with the torque converter still attached, pia!
Just to add a bit more to the discussion regarding the install of these nuts I went & checked my 57-58 Plymouth Service Manual and the 1957-62 Oz Chrysler Royal Service Manuals........... The Plymouth book covers manual, overdrive, Powerflite(2 speed) and Torqueflite trans and has this to say....."Install torque converter on crankshaft. Install eight torque converter nuts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten to 55 to 60 foot pounds" ................. The Oz Chrysler Royal Book has this to say........ "Position torque converter unit on crankshaft flange. Using wrench C-589, tighten stud nuts to 55ft.lbs torque." ...........there is a small picture showing the use of tool C 589 which from the poor pic shows a 12-15" long open mouth spanner which may or may not have a special end but is impossible to see clearly ................ And neither book shows or describes any particular way to actually install the mongrel nuts on the threads...........once this is achieved everything else would be a walk in the park.............lol............AndersF is correct in that removing the oil pan would make the job easier................anyway hope this helps Daddy...............andydd
31 Vicki.......these are a normal looking converter more or less, but without a flexplate, the ring gear is a press fit then staked or welded to the converter flange.........the 8 studs protrude from the centre.............my experience with them has only been with the Oz Chrysler Royals & Dodge Phoenix which used these trans 1957 to 1962 and were US made, imported into Oz, they are the same as that used in US Mopars.............the Oz shop manuals use the same pics and text that the US Plymouth manuals use..............andyd
What's the thread pitch ? The rounded top will let the wrench sneak on and off, the flange won't let it pass thru and the small OD of the flange wont interfere with much.
Dunno how you could loose a thread you'd have to be rather hamfisted, I suppose you could run with just 7 nuts, I wouldn't think it would make that much difference tho'........even with the converter balance..................lol........BTW, the thread is either 3/8th or 7/16th UNF, can't remember which and ain't got a spare converter to check on at present..........lol.......... as for using the flexplate style of attachment.........the up to 1962 uses 8 studs........the flexplate uses 6 bolts................the early crank flange is also longer or shorter, can't remember which.....this is the same arrangement that the early Hemis use and is why there is a market for adaptors from various companies to use the later all alloy 727 Torqueflite and other trans which use the flexplate................andyd.
Typed in Chrysler C589 wrench and found nothing factory. But there was one item that did show up and it looks interesting. Here's a link to what it is (scroll down to find when opened) > http://www.samstagsales.com/stahlwille.htm and here's what it looks like.
I could see cross threading a nut on there installing it this way. Then not being able to get it off. I can see it clearly. The 8 bolt flex plates are available for early hemi / same a 426. That poly should be the same bolt pattern no?
Maybe one of these would work? Adjustable from 0 to 1". Sorry can't tell you where to purchase, I bought some at a swap meet a few years back for around $5 for 2. I keep one in a couple of my different tool boxes, very handy when I remember I have it. Around 10" overall length.
The Poly's I've seen are 6 bolt. My poly has 6 'normal' flex plate bolt holes in it unlike this one with a flange. My crank will be replaced with an 8 bolt unit designed for an LA small block. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Take an old box end wrench and weld a couple of spots on one side of box end so the nut can't slip through.
Push the flywheel back so only two of the threads protrude. That should get you some more room. Tape on the backside of a flattened box end with the nut captured if you still cannot get your fingers in there.
Finally got one in. But not before I went looking for a 7/16 20 thread flange nut. Apparently, they're such an oddball, they looked through 6 catalogs with no luck. I took a little from a few of your replies. As for the rachet wrench, the top of the wrench does not allow for the nut to line up. The oil pan is right above an exhaust pipe. The long screwdriver didn't have the correct angle. So, I put one, 3/16×3/16 piece of gorrila tape on the inside of the long, open end wrench, on one side. Then, I used piece of scrap, 3/16 rod, with a slight bend at the end to keep the nut in place, while I turned the wrench. It took about a minute to get the first one in. In conclusion, the tape held the nut snug in the wrench. The rod kept the nut from sliding out of the wrench. It is a stupid design. But at least, "WE", all figured it out. Thanks for your input. Art
Just think, now you have the experience. You can help someone else deal with this problem in the future. Gene
Swede.........my understanding is that all cast iron Torqueflites use the converter with studs..........once mopar went to the alloy Torqueflites in 1962 that's when they changed to converter attachment and went to the flexplate idea so the 318 Polysafter 1962 to 1967 used the alloy box and are what you have seen...........and yep, using the LA crank gets you the later 6 bolt style with a flexplate..........good to see lots of helpful tips, hints, ideas and tool suggestions........and you've had a win Daddy..............lol...........andyd
I bring this thread back because, well... now it involves me! I went through the removal of those eight nuts to pull the 413 on my '61 Chrysler (the last year for this abomination). I now have the short block back from the shop. Seems it would be least maddening to install the torque converter while the block is on the hoist before the oil pan goes on. My question is whether there are going to be clearance problems installing the engine/converter combination with the trans sitting in its installed position in the car. The alternative is to reverse my disassembly procedure leaving the converter on the tranny while I drop the block into place and facing those eight soul crushing nuts from underneath the car. If any of you have insight on installing the block/converter as an assembly , I would appreciate it.
The chances of you getting the torque converter property seated into the Trans with it bolted to the engine is pretty damn slim. There's plenty of advice info and ideas in this thread. A piece of tape and a bent rod worked for the original poster. There's a few dozen more that weren't even tried. It's not easy but it's not impossible.
I may have an effective solution. Probably 15 years ago my dad came walking into my shop with a set of long needle nose pliers he got for me at Costco. Pretty handy tools in some places, but there was a goofy looking pair in there with hooked jaws that we sort of giggled about for a minute then promptly forgot. They worked their way to the bottom of the pliers drawer and were not heard from again for years. 3 or 4 years ago I was trying to figure a good way to hold nuts way inside a piece of box tube and somehow those pliers came to mind. They worked great and have been used many, many times since for nuts or bolts in tight places. They are becoming a go to tool. Might be hard to find a set, but easy enough to modify a straight pair for the job. Also good for installing and pulling small hoses you can't reach easily.
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