Hi Folks, I have a 1954 Bel Air 235. The end goal for this car is the juice up the 235 without breaking the bank. The engine has 90,000 miles on it and is in need of a rebuild, so I though this might be the best time to change out the cam and add a few more carburetors. It currently has duel exhaust, HEI, a 12 volt system, and a rebuilt radiator, new fuel pump and carburetor, new starter & alternator, and a rebuilt power glide transmission. The valve cover says "Blue Flame" but I'm not 100% certain that it is. I can't see the block number below the distributor but the block serial number tag (as best as I can tell is) 024,444 I5 Z. The head casting number on the driver side is 3885913 and on the p***enger side the numbers are 8 913 241 570. My questions is, what cam would you recommend and should I go with 2 or 3 carburetors? This will be a weekend ripper not a daily driver. Also in my research it appears to me that the head casting number is from a truck but I am under the impression this is the original motor to the car. Thanks for the help and have a great day
2 carbs are more common and practical for a 235. 3 carbs for 261 and the 270/302 GMC. That said, with dual exhaust and a bigger cam (I'm no help there, and finding good lifters can be a problem, I think), you might be OK running trips. The smart guys will be here soon to sort out your cam questions.
Belair: Thank you for your information I have been searching all day and I keep running in circles on weather to run two or three carbs.
If your going to use 3 uprights on an offy intake you'll need to do a little firewall mod. Here's a pic of our 53 firewall before I trimmed the brace. It would also need some work to clear the rear carb higher up. We decided to go with corvette side drafts & I simply notched the brace only. Two carbs muuuuch easier. Flux
I have always run 3 carbs-usually Rochester model "B"s- with progressive linkage simply because it allows you to run on the center carb unless you are really on it.Cures fuel mileage and driveability problems .
Two will be easier (see above post by flux capacitor) because of clearance issues. Honestly, determining the correct SIZE of carburetors to use is more important than whether to use two or three. If two, DEFINATELY solid linkage. If three, solid linkage will outperform progressive linkage at all times except wide open throttle. At WOT only, performance may be equal, but then the progressive would really be poor at other conditions. How many factory inline sixes with trips did you ever see with progressive linkage (think early Corvette, Jaguar, Austin-Healey, etc.) Engineers REALLY do things for a reason. Camshaft expertise is not my field, will defer that question to others. Jon.
Mr. Capacitor Thank you for your response and all the information. The pictures you have posted are very helpful. I am flattered that you would take the time to share your progress. Between what you and the "Carbking" have said I think that I will be going with two carburetors. Now to decide on the cam. Thanks again for everything
Hi Jon: Thank you for lending your expertise. Between what you have said and the pics and information from Flux, I have decided to go with two carburetors. I have seen a lot of different carbs out there but I am very ignorant when it comes to the subject. Because I am cheep, I would like to keep the Rochester B body, even thou I am not crazy about it. If you think that the car would run better with a set different carbs I would love your your suggestions. Also I will keep looking around to find as many options as I can. Thank you for your time and information. Kyle
Looking at the limited engine no.s you posted I think that engine is not the original engine that came with the car. A Powerglide engine would end with the suffix "Y". A "Z" suffix indicates a car engine without powerglide. Main difference here is that the PG engines ran hydraulic lifters, and the stick engines used solid lifters. The head number you posted was used on trucks in '54 and on cars and trucks in '55. I've heard that several guys are happy with their Carter/Weber carbs from Langdons.
Kyle, your well on your way. I'm running a 54 235 also 12 volts with an S-10 HEI from Tom Langdons. I also have a 3/4 mild cam again from Tom. I have a matched pair of Carter WA-1s. They are early Pontiac carbs and I was given some encouragement from Jon Hardgrove, aka carbking about using them. I'm running a vintage Tatterfield intake and I have it water heated. It is a good idea to heat the intake if you can. You will get the best performance in cold weather temps and it won't hurt in all weather. temps. The Tattersfield has the smaller 216 carb bolt spacing and lets you use the smaller carbs if you like. I have an S10 T-5 ****** and a 10 bolt rear with 373s. The car will run easily 65 to 70. If I wished to I know it can go more.
Thanks for the complement, I am excited about this build. It sounds like you have done some amazing things with your hot rod. I love the idea of running the Carter's and I have been looking into that. I have just learned about water cooling the intake and I will take your advice with that one. It seams like a minimal investment for a good result. I have never heard of a Tatterfeild so I guess I have some homework to do. I also got my old dog up to 70 mph and felt that was quite fast enough for one day. Thanks for everything and I look forward talk to you again.
That is one beautiful engine. I really like how you ran your fuel lines. Man, the look of a couple of two barrels sitting atop a spilt exhaust is bad to the bone. It appears to me that you are using an Offenhauser intake with a manifold cooler? I also am ***uming that you have a stepped up camshaft and perhaps some head work done? I have a touch more research to do on my engine. I know that my head is from a 54 truck and has been rebuild. I need to pull my cam and see exactly what I am dealing with. Thanks for your response and again I love your motor Kyle
Hey Kyle, It's not really cooling the intake. What it actually happening is the water is warming the base of the intake manifold. On your current engine, you'll see how the intake manifold is bolted to the exhaust manifold and where they meet is the place where the hot exhaust will warm the base of the intake. It makes the air fuel mixture behave as it should and atomize the fuel with the air nicely. The mixture will then enter the intake and flow into the carbs without the engine hesitating or stumble. When the air fuel mixture isn't warmed, the fuel will not mix with the air and it will stay liquid, pool up in the intake and the engine will stumble. Another important item to have is an insulator between the carb base and the intake. They will keep the carb from becoming too cold and cause the dreaded vapor lock problem that is so common with the inline six and multi carbs.
Thank you for taking the time to explain all of that is such great detail. I am lucky to have so much great information shared with me. I have a clear goal for my Bel Air now and I'm excited to start it. The previous owner put on a set of Fenton headers and when I took the valve cover off, I found that the head has been done and coated with a red material. I am ***uming this is to allow the oil to drain better. I'm not sure if the valves are the original size or if they have been enlarged. I will also have to investigate the rockers to see what type I have. Next I am going to do a compression check. If all of my cylinders compression checkout I'm going to put on a Fenton duel intake manifold (with a water manifold heater) and enjoy the car. Again thanks for the help and talk to you soon. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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