Projects What is this Chevy Pickup worth?

So, I feel like this pickup sorta fell into my lap so to speak. It is about a mile from my house. I think I might be able to talk him down a little given some issues it has with rust and it wouldn't start up today, despite the claim it would...

Anyway, here are the pics. I've been wanting one for a while now and this one is definitely in my budget if it is truly running/driving. It wasn't able to be started today for whatever reason.

I currently have a roadster in my garage, so this would be outside under a cover if I get it...

 

I sold a 49 Chevy pickup a few years ago that was in much better shape body wise for 800 bucks. HRP

 

$1500 max is what I would pay and there's plenty of parts available, so it's just a matter of how much you want to spend.

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Under a grand....5k worth of work to do or more....and i aint talkin paint, drivetrain, wheels/tires, interior......

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That would be considered nearly rust free here in northeast PA. If it starts and has brakes.. $2,000

 

Reality

Fantasy

There a guy around the corner from me that has a restored one like that asking $25,000.00 he hasn't sold it yet.

My philosophy is if I bought it today at X number and needed that money for an emergency next week could I get ALL my money back.

Pat

 

Quote :
so this would be outside under a cover if I get it...

That will add to the rust problem........and devalue it further, something to consider maybe?

 

I would consider it a good parts truck, just to much rust in all the wrong places to be my first choice. You would be better off Cherry picking pieces of parts for '47 to '54 (first series) Chevy trucks if you had to have one. The Monroe Swap Meet is this weekend, good place to check prices. There's still a lot of these trucks & parts here in WA. St. to choose from..................

 

These trucks have become the rage within the last ten years or so.
That one has a lot of sheet metal repair. I hope you're prepared to sink a lot hours and Or money into it.
Even here in the rust belt I wouldn't pay over a grand for that.


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1934coupe. I go to farm auctions every week. There is a big difference what the general public pays for project cars than what the veteran cars guys here pay for project vehicles. If I described some of the vehicles that sold near me this spring so far you would think the general public was crazy.

 

It a '53. Buy it if cheap. Set aside for later parts or project.

 

Keep looking, like was said ,rust in all the wrong places.

 

I agree with HRP and $ 800.00 is tops.

 

If you are a good body man and are not scared of major rust repair, then this might be the truck for you. If not, then you are looking at many thousands of dollars in parts and labor for that rusty truck.

I would opt for spending a bunch more for a truck that has little or no rust and you would end up way ahead.

 

I'd p*** on it. Too rough. You'd be fixing rust the rest of your life. Lots of better starter trucks out there.

 

I can tell you after fixing one of these for the GFs kid when the cowl and door posts look like that, you are in for a lot of work. If you don't fix them the cowl starts flexing around and the doors will not open and close very well. That being said I haven't seen one yet that didn't have that problem.

 

If you're bored, have skills, have space, have a surplus of cash and time, and got it really cheap ($500.00 or less), I'd say go for it.
All things considered, no matter what the initial cost is, it will end up being an expensive truck.

 

Probably the only panel on that thing without a rust hole is the hood. I cut one up for s**** that was nicer than that 7-8 years ago. Save your money and buy a better one, there are a lot of those things still out there. The most valuable part of that truck is probably the wheels.

Dave

 

this thread must have come from the 20 years ago. if you pulled into a swap meet any where around here with $1,000.00 on that truck you wouldn't even have to unload it. what would I pay for it? as little as possible. I would not sell it for less than $2,000.00. as for the rust, are you car guys or girly men? it is an old truck, you will be getting dirty and probably do some bleeding before you are done. either man up or buy one that is done.

 

$5,000.00 ??? that is a lot of welding wire and sheetmetal.

 

The truck in my avatar looked just like that. Took 3 yrs of working almost every weekend and waaaaay more money than I planned to fix it all, and it was just the cab that was bad. Hood, fenders, bed all good. If I was starting over I would look my *** off for one that doesnt have any rust, and spend more if I had to. If I couldnt find one, Id take it on again but it would have to be under 1k.

 

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The guy is asking $2,500. Personally, I've never been one for completely restored trucks like this. I like the "rolled off the farm" look, but still fully functional and safe to drive (good brakes, good running motor). I imagine I'd eventually try to drop a V8 into it for the cruising power on the freeway.

I've toyed with the idea of one of these for quite a while, this one seemed a good candidate to cut the cancer out and replace with either patch panels or just plain sheet steel (the floor I'd just cut out and replace with new metal and Rhinoliner it or something).

I think I'll keep looking and if the price comes down enough...maybe I'll pick it up.

 

There is a lot more rust out that you can't see. The rocker panels are probably bad beyond what you can see . The cab corners are rusty , probably the inner cab corners too, these both attach to the rocker panels. . The floor, the rocker panel ,the kick panel ,the J panel or mud seal and that rusted out body mount are all sandwiched together and they are probably all rusted together. and something terrible has happened to that lower hinge. The hinge pocket is attached to the mud seal or J panel which ever you choose to call it. could be more damage there. But ,all that being said, that is a typical rustbelt truck. I replaced all that stuff and more on my avatar. Bill

 

$300 would work for me. Its one of those "jack up the radiator cap and slide a new truck under it" dealies to me.

 

Even if you didn't mind a few small rust holes on the lower regions, and want to drive a patina truck, that particular truck will be falling apart soon because of those rusted A posts. The hinges have nothing to support them, and soon the doors will be sagging and won't close. That's no fun for a daily driver.

 

Which part is it that is rusted out that will cause sagging doors? I haven't done too much poking around on these in person to know what to look for.

 

What about cab mounts?