I need a little advice from those of you who have experience with the Ford steering linkage. I'm chasing quirky steering in my car. I have one front wheel in the air, the other on the ground. Trying to turn (left/right) the tire in the air I noticed some slack. The idler arm is moving up and down. The arm ends look new with gold colored nuts, etc, and everything I find under the car is new. I changed an idler arm in a shoebox ford 50-odd yeas ago and seem to remember that the idler arm threads into the big nut in the bracket and the center link. Is there a chance that this idler is mis-adjusted and how do I check for sure? Thanks for your help Gene
I took it off, the bushing on the center link end is stripped. I'll install a new idler and bushings. Who is consistently has good steering parts? I see a wide range of prices, who do you stay away from?
I found a TRW old stock on ebay and bought it. I've always understood that TRW had quality parts. It cost a little more than some of them, but who knows where they were made. If anyone has a Ford repair manual install directions, I would appreciate it.
I completely rebuilding mine right now, i bought everything from Mac's and Concourse and it's all from China, or India. There is a complete kit on eBay but people told me these other companies are American NOT and it cost me a lot more. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is from my '53/'54 shop manual; I imagine the specs and procedures are the same for a '55. Since you already got yours off I'll skip that portion. Idler arm vertical free play should be 1/8" when ***embled to the steering linkage. Check the face of the frame rail for squareness as follows: 1) With the car on a level floor measure the distance from both frame rails to the floor. If the distances are unequal jack up the lowest rail until it is even with the other rail. Hold a level against the inside surface of the RH frame rail next to the idler arm bracket position, then establish the true perpendicular. Measure the gap between the side of the level and the frame rail. This measurement represents the thickness of any spacing washers to be installed between the bracket and the frame rail to correctly position the idler arm bracket. 2) Install the bushings in the bracket and the tie rod. Torque to 85 - 100 foot pounds, then install the zerk fittings. 3) Put new seals on the idler arm and thread the idler arm into the tie rod bushing until the shoulder on the arm is 11/16" (+/- 3/64") from the top face of the tie rod when the arm is in the straight ahead position. 4) Thread the bracket and bushing ***embly onto the idler arm until the shoulder on the arm is 11/16" (+/- 3/64") below the bottom side of the bracket when the bracket is parallel to the frame. Mount the bracket to the frame with the spacing washers as needed. Torque to 30 - 35 foot pounds. 5) Bob's your uncle.
Thank You! I never would have gotten it on correctly without those instructions. 85 ft lbs! The bushing in the tie rod was slipping with just a little pressure. I hope my center link doesn't have weak threads. Thanks again Gene
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