I have a 37 Chevrolet 1/2 ton and the sector and worm gear seem to be worn out in the steering box. I thought that it was just the sector that was worn so I found a NOS sector shaft and was trying to get the box all back together and adjusted only when I get the play out of the steering in the centered position it gets very tight at the extreme ends of motion. I imagine that the worm is also worn more in the center then at the ends. So I have two thoughts, rebuild the stock box with a NOS sector (which I have) and worm (which I don't have and haven't been able to find) OR can I use a later Recirculating ball type from a slightly later truck in it's place? I saw a 40's box that looks like it may work. OR does anybody have any other Ideas? By the way this all was started because of a shimmy that I couldn't get rid of and the last thing to deal with was the play in the steering box. Thanx Jaysin
Do the 41 to 46 boxes also bolt in for 37 Chevy passenger car steering, or just for the pickup? Maybe the car and pickup factory set ups are the same car to pickup, but can you confirm that? I have a 37 Chevy 2 door project with original steering that I'd like to upgrade.
I did that in my '40 GMC and now I can turn it with the palm of my hand. The Recirculating ball gear started in '41 and changed in '47 with the chassis/body change. I traded a six pack of Dr Pepper and a bag of Doritos for mine. On mine I even kept the dame mast jacket in the cab it took longer to jack the truck up than to change the gear. I found it easiest to drop the gear straight out the bottom which necessitated getting the truck the length of the shaft up in the air. Get the pitman arm with it if you can. Always good to have spares.
I'd happily trade a six pack of Dr. pepper and a bag of Doritos for one. If any one has a 41-46 box out there I would happily give a bag of chips and a six pack for it. Just kidding I'd happily pay for it. Thanx
I got a 41-47 type box in my 37 Chevy pu and it's way better than the 37 box.It's not exactly a bolt in.The 37 steering wheel has a keyway,38 and up are splined.You can use a 38 wheel, I welded the upper half of the 37 shaft onto the cut off 41-47 box shaft. The steering box on the bigger trucks is the same as the pu's but the shaft is longer,it'll work if shortened.I believe the COE box is somewhat different than the rest.
I forgot about the steering wheel differences but I am planning on using a early 40s car steering wheel and I hope I can get the horn to work,whats weird about the car steering wheel I have is it has both the splines and key slot. Jeff
I'm currently running a '54 Chevy passenger car wheel. I had a '57 Bel Air wheel on it but it was too deep and "in my face". GM splines are mostly universal.
Jaysin, I have a stock '36 chevy suburban box still connected to the orig column and steering wheel. Don't know if this would help you but...only problem I'm in Maryland and the shipping would probably kill ya' Rusty Nut
Hey guys~ Thanx for all the great info, now all I need is a 41-46 box. Rusty, thanx for the offer but I think I want to move to a later box then the earlier. Changing the end of the shaft shouldn't be a problem, cut and weld or throw it in the lathe and do a bit of machine work. Thanx again
This is great information guys, thanks. I'm looking for a 41-46 steering box for my 1939 Chevy 1/2 ton. If anyone on here has one or knows where I might be able to find one, I'd greatly appreciate any information. I'm willing to pay shipping costs within the U.S.
Been driving my 37 with the 41-6 box for 8 years and much better then the original and do not know where any are.
The AD box is different, but that doesn't mean someone with some skills couldn't make it work. The '41-'46 is a bolt in swap, other then the steering wheel difference. I rebuilt my original box with all NOS parts, then went to the '41 gear box. Even with NOS parts in the '37, the '41 was a much better option. All trucks used the same basic box, the difference is in the shaft length, so don't limit yourself to 1/2 ton only. On a side note, the '41 box uses different size ball bearings then '42-'46 box, so don't try and swap between them.
Thanks. I have a 1950 1/2 ton AD truck steering box but no arm or drag link and I also have a 1954 3 ton AD steering box with the steering arm and drag link. I gotta make it all work out with a 1935 axle.. Thanks
Its been a month since i asked my question on this thread.. I had set my mind to either find a 41-46 steering box or modify my frame to accept a 48-54 chevy AD box. Living in the middle of the desert,you come across old car parts in the weirdest places. I acquired,honestly,a couple of parts of this older gentelman that sells military vehicles and equipment. A very pristine deuce steering wheel (that he later changed his mind and bought it back) a rearbumper off an unknown truck with brackets And a steering box with a very crusty steering wheel that later broke off at the center because of rust.. All painted olive drab. All for 10 bux I hid it under an old bus and forgot about it til today. I found it and cleaned the numbers with a brush,took a pic and did a little research.. Turns out its a mid 40s steering box. Some times a desert rat gets lucky and finds a little cheese.
I have a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton pu, and the steering box in it steered rather hard the last time I used it. However, I don't know if it is the stock box - how can I ID a 1936 box vs a '41-'46 box. Anyone have a good 40s box to part with? Question 2: has anyone converted their beam axle steering parts to tie rod ends instead of spring-loaded ball-and-socket? Thanx
GuyW, there are modern tie-rod ends to convert the older spring loaded ones. Look here, Chevrolet_Tie_Rod_End_12_34_Ton_With_Ball_Replacement_Type.html Others sell them also. It's a direct replacement. The 41-46 gear box will be slightly bigger, here is the parts manual section for steering gear http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/393.htm Look for the casting number.
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