I had the cab loose in my 1941 Ford PU to install a new rear floor. In the meantime I installed a small block Chevy motor. When I went to reinstall my cab I found that my right side valve cover was hitting the firewall. Not very much, but I can't leave it that way. I'm not sure if a notch is normally required here, or if I did something wrong. I used CE motor mounts and keyed off of the turbo 350 trans mount (part of the CE split wishbone kit) so my engine location would be correct. The only other thing I should mention is that I'm using a 1938 frame. I was under the impression that they were all the same from 1937-1941 for pickups.
FWIW.. I have a 40 PU with a 327 / TH400. It has 5/8 clearance between the firewall and RH valve cover. The firewall has not been modified. I am using a Hurst front mount and original mount holes in the cross member, The valve covers are old Cal Custom finned. Clete
The boss at a rod shop I used to work at had a '41 with a 327 and a four speed and his firewall was stock but it was on the original ch***is.
My 40 PU has the same CE kit that you have, I do have to shorten or totally cut off a stud sticking out of the firewall. As you see, there is about 3/8" clearance. You might re-check the instructions and dimensions on drilling the holes for the front motor mounts. The 38 frame is the same.
As I mentioned, I used the trans mount to locate the motor mounts. I installed the engine and trans together, bolted the trans to the rear mount, then installed the front mounts. I got this tip from CE to be sure the engine mounts would be exact. I did cut off the stud, but my valve cover is rubbing the firewall.
I put a Chevy crate motor in a '40 pickup on a '40 sedan frame with CE biscuit motor mounts and a CE center section for a TH350. Put Trans and motor in with center section in to determine motor mount location. Had about a 1/2" of space between firewall and p***enger side valve cover. I had just enough room between the firewall and the motor for the trans dip stick. I cleaned up the firewall of holes and studs also. Hope this helps.
You might need to jiggle the cab back on its mounting holes. Are you using stock wooden cab mounts? Make sure the cab is not tilted. Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hindsight is a *****, of course. When I had work done on my 37 Ford sedan body, I had the firewall replaced with a recessed, "big block" version, along with the new toe boards /front floor sections / tunnel that were all part of the EMS' package. I did this even though I only planned a SBF / C-4 install. It's just SO much nicer to have some extra room for the engine, accessories, steering, etc., and also to have room for tools and hands to fit when working on things later. If you have the time and inclination, I'd recommend a complete BB replacement firewall instead of a small notch or "wheel barrow" style recess. If not, a few little reversed blisters in the right places? Gary
I found the problem. The rear floor had been mounted slightly off. This kicked the cab forward causing the problem. When the floor problem was corrected I had the same clearance that was mentioned in a couple of the posts. Thanks for the help, the advice caused me look harder at the situation until I found the answer.
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