Hot Rods Flooring for T- Bucket

Question about body mounting,

On my 23 T Bucket I am planning to use 3/4 marine plywood for the floor. But, what I want to do is instead of running a full floor is use just enough wood to cover the frame rails leaving the center section open. I will be using the body mount bolts that Speedway sells. Seats and so forth will be mounted directly to steel rails welded to the frame. Steel sheet will be used on the bottom of the frame as a floorpan. Does anyone see anything wrong with this plan? The fiber-gl***ed wood will only be supporting the body and nothing else. Did any of this make any sense?

Thanks

 

Sure you can do that. I guess the question is why? Are you are trying to gain 3" of leg/foot room? But only between the frame rails? I'm 6'4" so I'm all for leg room, but the trans is going to take most of that away. If you just want to see the trans, okay I guess.

 

Thank you for the response. I am making a project with a specific look. Has nothing to do with leg room.

SM

 

Yup. The first piece of road debris that hits you in the face could be what does you in.

Cars have floors for a reason.

 

Please re-read my post. I said I was going to install a steel floorpan under the frame..... I beginning to remember now why I quit posting here before... some of you guys are so quick to criticize when you didn't even read the post.

SM

 

With all due respect, your question really isn't that clear. But going by what you've posted, so far, yes.... it can be done. But the thinking is....why? The amount of room gained would hardly be worth it, but if your going for "looks", sure go for it.

It sounds like you're trying to do a "belly pan". If so, those were usually removable. Not welded to the frame.

 

I didn't say I was going to weld the sheet steel to the bottom of the frame. I also never said I was doing it for the room. I just asked a question about the use of the wood for the body attachment. The rest was ***umptions by the responders.

I do appreciate the response to my question concerning the body mount.

SM

 

Okay....... do it. Good luck with it.

 

You can certainly do it that way,it should work fine.3\4" marine plywood is VERY strong.

 

So your gonna bolt the steel to the frame, just an ***umption on my part as you were not clear up front ,do it ,I guess

 

I wouldn't, but yes it can be done

 

i ***ume you're talking about a belly pan. a lot of racers did that when model t fords were still in junkyards.

 

Thank you

 

I didn't really expand on that because it wasn't the question I was asking. The seat rails will be welded to the frame. I haven't decided yet on the floor pan.

SM

 

So the wood, would just be between the frame and body, but not a full floor, with maybe a little around the close perimeter of the frame? That's what I understood this to be, plus a belly pan to seal everything up so-to-speak. I'm sure it's been done before. I am ***uming there would be through-bolts; body-wood-frame? Anything less would't be structurally sound. I remember one year at Bremerton Raceway, when I was still with the Handler's Racing ***ociation (operators of the track since 1959), and the Bracket Finals were coming up. Track Tech people were being a little more critical of cars in order to be sure no one would be tossed out for not meeting tech at another track. A beautiful Fiat Topolino from Oregon showed up, and it had the most beautiful wooden floor; thick plywood finished with clear lacquer that brought out the wood grain. Got a lot of attention as everyone thought the guy showed up with a "wood floor". Turns out he also had a full belly pan, and was allowed to race, but it was a bit tense for a few minutes (glad I was't the Tech Man). Recently, I've seen a lot of Pro Modified type cars with the transmission fully exposed in the drivers compartment (course they also have an SFI certified bellhousing and case). At one time that would have been not allowed at all, and would have required a trans-blanket, or trans-shield irregardless. Build your car your way, just make it safe, and it can even be "unique", if that's what you're going for. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Yes, it can be done. And after going back and re-reading the original post, I don't even need to understand the details and maybe have to guess somewhat. Historically, a lot of cars have been built with a lot more wood than that. No one needs to get curt with their posts, OP or a replaying member. But it also understandable if it happens. Just ***ume that everyone is trying to help. It not "pushing the envelope" but it is "outside the box". There's nobody here that wouldn't carry you on their shoulders when you win the 500 or wouldn't carry your coffin when you don't finish.

I don't mean to single out anyone. Any resemblance to anyone, living or dead. is purely coincidence.

.

 

WOW: That was intense.

 

What keeps your side wings of floor from folding up? The joint where they wood is gl***ed to the body sides will not be very stiff to hold all the weight. There needs to be bracing all the way across the body.

 

That is exactly what my concern is and what I was questioning. I wouldn't have even thought of it if it was going to carry all the weight. The only stress the wood will be carrying is the fibergl*** body itself since seats and so forth will mounted to frame rails. The car is based on 40's/50's roadster dirt cars.

What I have built so far...

 

Yes sir, as I stated in the post, I will be using Speedway Motors body kit. Three bolts per side. They're bolts that go through the wood/fibergl*** then a rubber sleeve that expands in the frame. The body will actually sit on the top portion of the rubber similar to a motor mount.

SM

 

Sounds like it would work.

 

That was my first thought, too. The torsions resulting from the two half-floors are all going into the frame rails rather than through the middle section of the floor, which no longer exists. It's asking a lot of the attachment of the floor to the rails. I'd see if I could incorporate any kind of continuous cross-rails to tie the half-floors together. Otherwise I don't see a problem.

 

I will look into that... thanks for the suggestion.

SM

 

or just put two outriggers on each side of the frame and bolt the body to them

 

I like where this build is going...

I built this one years ago.

 

That's awesome... haven't thought of that. The body is gl***, would running bolts through it cause cracks?

 

That is very cool... how you liking the 6?

SM

 

Sold it in '08. Built AMC 258. Big cam, worked head, 2 bbl Demon carb on a Clifford intake. Built 3 speed auto trans. GOBS of torque. I mean...GOBS! All way down low. It was a blast.
And it also had 3/4 plywood gl***ed to the body. Screwed a bead rolled sheetmetal floor right on top of that.

 

This is how I mount fibergl*** bodies on the track roadsters I build. A formed angle out of 10 ga is welded to the side of the frame rail. 1/8 " rubber is sandwiched between the angle and the lower body flange, with 4 bolts per side. Out of 9 cars, with lots of miles and plenty of laps on dirt tracks, cracking has not been a problem. Also, my floors are .090 aluminum, and the belly pan has a 3/4" tube frame. I take it you are after the exposed power train look.

 

I hope you like heat. How are you going to seal away engine heat?