Technical Junkyard cruise control

GM made a decent C/C setup in the late 70's early 80's ..Fender mounted control unit driven by the speedo cable. The vacuum device connected to the carb linkage and was regulated by the control unit. Engage switch in T/sig lever..
I had a early 80's Malibu wagon that had the GM system. I worked at a Chevy dealership ,so I scrounged up all the ones I could find. At one time I had boxes of control units ,cables , linkage ,etc..
System worked great..simple and easy to maintain..
I found them on G bodies (Malibu,Olds Cutl***,Monte Carlos ,etc from 78 - 87 ).. Lots of the components are still available rebuilt or EBay sources..Brackets ,cables ,wiring ,etc could still be found in junkyards possibly

 

that cruise was so-so when it got old, the transducer would get sticky and not work. Finding a good one today is not so easy! I put one in my truck back around 1981, and it kind of worked for a while, then quit. I had several of the transducers, still couldn't make it work reliably.

the more modern electronic ones worked a lot better....but they have all that yucky computer **** in them.

 

Ever seen one of these used ?

 

That last comment is funny having gone to your web site!!!

 

oh, computers are OK to play around with, but I don't like them in old cars.

 

Going by what has been said by some on here the following thread would also be an issue to these folks I guess.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/disc-brake-rear-to-use-in-1953-55-ford-f-100.1064114/

 

It's a difference of approach to computers. I've got no problem with computers providing me with the information I need to control mechanical stuff; I don't like computers controlling mechanical stuff directly. Example: I'd be all for using a computer to ****yse O2 data in order to determine a needle profile for a constant-vacuum carb. But once the needle is cut the computer becomes redundant.

It's the difference between a tool-using mind-set and a slave-commanding mind-set.

 

Yep. All you gotta do is click the little "report" ****on there on that thread & I'm sure a mod will zap it. But I ain't gonna do it.

One of the mods said recently that expecting them to catch every single post thats off topic is akin to expecting a cop to catch every single criminal.

 

I ain't reporting because I believe in live and let live since we are all of the same mind on here...

 

Sometimes a person needs to step back and see the big picture. The real people and their issues and questions. The hot rod is traditional. If this device helps this gentleman enjoy our hobby longer then what the hell is the problem? The whining and *****ing will close the thread a lot faster than the topic.

 

Hmmm what year did the T5 come out? I believe they are allowed here, so why not CC?

 

LOL. Some of y'all are a bit dense. This thread has gotten by so far. All of the "waaaaa, I'm **** hurt and wanna *****" posts are gonna get it closed or deleted eventually. Shut the frak up and maybe it'll fly under the radar long enuff to get an answer about it!

 

We would never criticize a hot rodder who lost the use of his legs fitting his hot rod or custom with hand controls so he could drive it. We would be impressed with his skill and ingenuity in figuring out something and making it work. We would take on over the quality of workmanship, and we'd be glad to see him driving his car and enjoying it like the rest of us. If you ever get a chance, visit President Franklin Roosevelt's vacation home in Warm Springs GA. It's open to the public. You can see FDR's last car, a '38 Ford Deluxe convertible sedan, rigged up with hand controls so he could drive it since polio left him a paraplegic. What you may not know--FDR bought the car at the Ford dealership in Warm Srings. Since there were no ready-made hand controls that could be bought, FDR himself did the engineering and designed hand controls that made it possible for him to drive a car with a manual transmission and mechanical brakes. The people in the brace shop at the polio hospital in Warm Springs made the components according to FDR's specs. A mechanic at the local Ford dealership put it all together. FDR should be recognized as the only hot rodder to serve as POTUS. So a rodder who rigs up a junkyard cruise control so he can drive his car in spite of a bad leg is following in the steps of FDR, finding a way to be able to drive his car and enjoy it.

 

...not if the Junior Moderators have anything to say about it....

 

If you get a cruise control unit from a car manufacturer built before about the mid 90s (before OBDII), they are not tied into the cars efi computer.

The servo does most of the work. It needs to know the vehicle mph, needs to be connected to the throttle, brake switch (and clutch pedal if standard trans) monitoring, most need a vacuum source, and it needs an on/off switch, and momentary "set" and "resume" switches.

The vacuum connection and the throttle connection are what gives the servo the ability to hold, increase, or decrees speed based on the vehicle mph connection. Older units connected the mph through the speedo cable connected directly to the servo. Some CC use magnets glued and taped to the driveshaft with a magnetic pickup mounted to the floor pan to get vehicle mph. Modern CC uses the electronic signal off the trans speed sensor.

The electrical connection turn the unit on or off, the momentary "set" switch tells the servo the desired speed. The brake switch (and clutch switch if equipped) temporarily shut the unit off without clearing the desired speed setting (this would be so you can stop at a sign and not have to fight the CC trying to go 55 mph). The momentary "resume" switch reactivates the servo to resume the desired mph. Turning the unit off will clear the speed setting.

You can piece a unit together. The electrical switches (off/on, set, resume, and brake light switches) are the most expensive individual parts outside of the servo itself. The servo usually comes with a vacuum connection point and the throttle attachment (or the one required is available). The driveshaft magnets and pickup with mount can be bought as a set online.

Rather then chasing parts, Rostra (Google cruise control) makes a good self standing unit complete with everything for around $250- $300. Gene

 

you can also pick up a NOS Dana Perfect Circle unit, from the 70s, on ebay for $50-100. They were sold by sears, etc so do some searching. Those units also use a vacuum valve on the brake switch, and they have the magnet on the driveshaft thing going on as well. I used them quite a bit in the 1980s, and installed a few used ones in the 1990s, they were often free for removing them from someones car. They are getting old, though, the last time I tried to get something going with my left over parts, it wouldn't work. Usually a new in the box unit will work fine, though.

I have one of the recent Rostra units (globalcruise), it works ok, but is a bit of a pain to get adjusted just so. I've had it in several different cars.... I still like the Rostra 16-R best, as I mentioned in my first post.

search for wiring diagrams for 1980s-90s GM cars to see the wiring connections that Gene described. He's right, it's not rocket surgery, you just need to figure out what the unit wants as far as controls and signals, and wire it up accordingly.

 

That one works okay, but as Jim said , it needs a little tune up once in a while with some brake clean . If you are wanting to use drive cables, it will adapt okay.
Yes, the next version had a brain box and works better, with the tap up/ tap down stuff. Still not a big deal, but you'll need a mag pick up on the trans.
I don't think we what transmission we're dealing with here, do we?

 

Hell get one off an Old Fordson tractor that would be period correct.

 

Cool bit of history. But ironic given the cartelizing effects of the New Deal!

 

A simple solution would be a throttle cable, that`s what I used on my `38 Buick.

 

We put a factory junk yard cruise control from an 80s Caddy in my friend's '42 Willys pickup. We installed a rebuilt GM tilt column and he wanted the CC handle to look like just a plain turn signal with no ****ons all over it (can see the handle on the column in picture below). It was the one with the speedo cable going thru a sensor box that in turn sends a vacuum signal to the servo that pulls on the carb arm. Had to rebuild the units (mainly take out the rock hard white grease and relube it all) but it works like a champ. No issues for at least 10 years of pretty heavy operation.

 

I adapted one from mid-70's Chrysler product. Uses speedo cable in and out for speed signal, and vacuum pot/cable to control the throttle. The turn signal switch fits Mopar columns, and with a little grinding will fit GM turn signal switches.

 

Jeep guys have used PTO cables for many years. When you are in low range it's nice to hold the revs up and crawl. If you do it with your foot the Jeep or truck tends to buck like a bronco. You can twist to the desired RPM but in an emergency just punch the center ****on and it releases. Very simple and period.

 

the HAMB works in strange and mysterious ways. Don't worry about...

 

Cruise control is traditional

 

I second that!

I use it in my DD to prevent speeding tix as well. wore out the 1st OE switch in 30k miles replacement just starting to wear out in 50k more miles but when I don't use it I'm doing 70 in a 45mph with out realizing it. Hemi power and 6speeds.

 

Okay - hand throttles - the '41 has one (pre-65, l believe) could these have been used for more than to help Ol Bess warm up on a cold morning? Granted it may not be the safest 'cruise control'

 

According to Wikipedia a 58 Imperial was the first to offer it factory Rostra kits a so cheap to even think about using factory stuff.

 

some folks have a different concept of what "cheap" is, compared to others

 

I had a 78 Chevy C-10 Bonanza edition with tilt, power windows, power locks, and cruise. It had a 350 w/Q-Jet/TH350 and It was pre-ECM. The cruise worked awesome. What design was it if anyone knows? Gotta be some junkyards with a few of those somewhere?


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