Hot Rods Yup another primer question

Hi guys.I primed the 56 Chrysler windsors roof and hood yesterday with a gray epoxy primer. The roof came out nice but, the hood you can still see scratchs and pit marks on it. Should I wet block sand it and try more primer or any suggestions?The rest of the car looks like it will turn out well when I prime it.Thanks Bruce.

 

Bruce, now use a filler primer over the top, three good coats. let it sit for a while then wet sand that.

 

2X. That's exactly what I did. The high build primer will do the trick.

 

Tb33anda3rd.I thought the epoxy primer was a filler primer?What kind do you suggest? Thanks Bruce.

 

Epoxy has a recoat window for proper adhesion, please read about your paint brand, or let us know what it is.

If enough time has p***ed that youre past the recoat window, you need to scuff/sand it before the next coat -high build.

If you dont know the brand or type, scuff it down to be safe.

 

the epoxy primer, or at least the ones i use are "non sanding". i use them because they have the ability to "lock" down any old finish it is being sprayed over, having the ability to stick to, bare metal, fillers etc., and, as stated above, they have an "adhesion" window that makes whatever is sprayed over it "stick".
filling primers have the ability to fill and can be sanded easily. they have a high build capability and you can sand out a lot of imperfections. unlike the epoxy primers they they don't seal what's below it.

 

You should use the same brand filler primer as your epoxy. That way if you have a problem later on the paint company "might" stand behind it. Standing behind it in paint company language is they might replace the product, I have never gotten any labor money out of them.

 

Ive considered recoat window many times, Bruce may still be in the window.

I usually let my stuff sit for quite a while and completely cure, it adds a sanding step but ensures the solvents have all been outg***ed. My personal opinion -this is where a lot of the compatibility issues comes from.

By the time I get something prepped and shot, Im ready to walk away for a few days anyway.

 

When I did the roof of the '58, I did a skim coat of Bondo's filler paste over the repair and sanded it with 1500 until I could not tell the difference running my hand over the repair. Then I used a couple coats of primer, wet sanding in between coats. When I laid down the final spray I could not tell where the repair was.

 

Hey Bruce, not trying to be a smart ***, but it sounds like you need to stop what you're doing for a while and do some research/reading/learning. That stuff is to expensive and time consuming to have issues down the road caused by a wrong decision.

 

Good advice so far.
Read Read Read the Product Information Sheets. The answers are there.
You are on the right track so far.

 

Agreed! most epoxy primers are made to put body filler over if needed. Then you can touch up your bare spots with a bit of epoxy. re coat with 2k primer via flash time of tech sheet. every primer plus body product has a tech sheet. google your product name or part number along with tech sheet in the text. It will have everything you need to know on it. good luck.

 

If you have sand scratches showing on the hood I can almost guarantee they are on the roof as well. You may not see them now but they will show up once you start painting so make sure whatever you do to the hood you do to the roof as well. Evercoat make some nice high build primers that are easy to sand and fairly well priced.
http://www.evercoat.com/evercoat-primers/us/

Slick Sand and/or Superbuild are used by a lot of restoration shops for blocking out vehicles.

 

I have wet block sanded epoxy primer countless times to remove light imperfections, scratches etc. without exposing bare metal. Doing so can reduce the amount of primer filler required.
I never exceed the recommended coats of epoxy and don't expect it to fill all flaws.
Just saying.

 

Texas57.I am not trying to be a smart *** either but I have been painting cars for years. I always used the regular old fashion primer and never had a problem with it. I am just not used to this new stuff.Thanks Bruce.

 

K13 Thanks Bruce.

 

Indyjps.This is what I used on the hood and roof. It will have to be resanded down. Thanks Bruce.

 

Be careful. Wear a respirator even if you are outside.

 

You do realize, don't you, that is not epoxy primer ?.

 

Yeah... what he said. That nason in the pic isn't epoxy. that's regular primer.

 

And you read this part of the TDS:

Note: Aluminum, galvanized, and steel must be pretreated with SelectPrime™ 491-17™ 2K Etch Primer, SelectPrime™ 491-55™ 2K Chrome Free Etch Primer or Ful-Poxy® 491-16™ DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer or other Nason® etch primer or epoxy primer

 

If you asked your paint guy for epoxy primer and that's what he sold you, you need to find another paint supply house!

 

Belair I did it in the shop.I always wear a respirator. You only have 1 pair of lungs and THANKS. Bruce.

 

John they told me at the parts store it was???Bruce.

 

DAMN!Bruce

 

Slopok.I guess I will be going back to the paint store I used to use in the next town over. Its further to travel but I never had any problem with any of their paint supplys. Bruce.

 

Man that ****s. Selling you that as epoxy or as a product to go over bare metal is just incompetence. I would take what's left back and get your money back and tell them they can come over to help you strip it all off. I had to strip off my finished paint last fall because of my own FU so I know how bad it ****s but to have to do it because a supposed paint store sells you the wrong thing is ****. I feel for you man.

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Nason 421-19 is high build only.

My first respray, I da'd a black car down, fixed some dents and used sealer direct on metal and over filler where needed, and shot single stage black enamel over it, a panel at a time, spent forever wetsanding and buffing it out. That car is still running around 20 years later with no paint issues but faded black paint, I didnt know any better, primer was primer. must have gotten lucky.

 

Not according to their technical data sheets the "note" in my earlier post is straight from their TDS. Requires etch or epoxy first if spraying over steel. It may last and it may not I for one wouldn't be spending more money and time on the hope it will adhere when the paint manufacturer specifies it is not a DTM primer.

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Good call, I was looking at 421-10, not 421-19. 421-19 is high build. Ill update previous post.