Can anyone out there tell me the proper way to install the seals on the stanchions for a roadster windshield. I am ***uming they need to be glued / epoxied / contact cement or something similar. The bottom seal on the windshield itself slips into a groove in the frame, but the side seals are different. thanks in advance
Don't final cut the corners for 24 hrs. after you slide them down the gasket channel as they will pull themselves back in even after being pulled down the channel... Also don't make the gasket side and bottom support the w/w frame... make a little stop that lays against the front of the tube... the gaskets will last a lot longer...
That still doesn't address or answer the original question. I am also wondering how that side seal in the post works or if there is a better alternative to seal up the gap on a roadster windshield post to windshield frame on the Model or T.
I have never done that on an open car... but the rubber acts the same open or closed cars... so when you figure out how to get the rubber in... my post may make more sense... only trying to help.
So am I. My '27 repop stanchions have a narrow, shallow channel with a 'soft' stamping that rubber will definitely have to be glued to. (I may remove the inner stampings and make some with a 'dado' stamping that will hold a good rubber gasket) Prior to doing this, I'm open to 'Roadster Suggestions'...
Bro, If I understand your question correctly... could you be trying to 'install the seals onto the stanchions for a roadster windshield' instead of onto the windshield itself? Said another way... my 1928-29 windshield FRAME has a slot cut all the way around on the bottom and both sides... that you slide and thread the rubber gasket into and around the frame... not glued to the stanchions but around the frame itself. Mine doesn't require any glue and you don't even have to cut the bottom corners ... maybe your frame is different than mine and doesn't have any cut groove on the sides?
That's an interesting idea. I may look at doing that now as I have a pair of cut down (4") stock T windshield posts. The inner stamping was (and is) thin and rusty. I could probably remove it and replace it with a flat piece of metal with a groove like the bottom of the windshield frame and then just use a piece of the bottom seal on the sides. I'm going to look at that right away because I want to box up my windshield frame and posts to send off for chroming.
My model T windshield frame has no grooves in the sides, just the bottom and the sides of the windshield posts are as shown in the OP's picture.
If Henry Ford had today's adhesives he would have glued the whole car together... a good glue should work, and it should not see the weather it saw the first time round...
My 29 RPU had a slot in each post. The rubber seals I got were too fat to fit in the slot. ( I don't remember where I got them.) But I stretched each rubber piece making it skinnier, pressed it in the groove while stretched, and released the stretch. Rubber pieces were then tight in grooves. Then trimmed the ends. No glue needed. I had two original windshield frames and one repro frame. None had slots in the sides for rubber seals. Hope this helps. Just my $.02
My '30 roadster W/S frame has slots on the ends and bottom... the upper station does not, it has a raised rib... . .
After taking a pic of my stantion I looked closer at yours... not really for sure as I don't mess with '28-'29 open cars much...but it look as if someone may have put the inner strip in upside down... mine is flush, yours looks concave... the rubber's outer edge sets against the raised ridge on my stantion... the no slots in the W/S frame's sides may be a '28-'29 vs. '30-31 ford thing, as frank posted he did not have W/S frame slots on his '28-'29 RPU ... did Henry's boys feel that rubber in the w/s frame repelled water better than the rubber in the posts and change between '29 and '30 ?
I guess this generated more questions than answers...I did a bit more digging and found that Permatex makes a weather strip adhesive. (3M has something similar too) My stanchions are Ford licensed reproductions and the Vintique weather strip fits perfectly in the "U" shaped groove. It just seems to need some glue to hold it there...Unlike the windshield frame that has a "T" slot in the bottom where it's weather strip slides in and stays put.. I will give it a try this weekend and see how it goes.
bought some A tin today..., model A rumble lid, upper trunk gutter, pair of rumble seat grab handles and the bottom half of a '31 grill shell... guy had 3 roadster W/S frames, he had [1] with the slots in the sides... but had [2] with no side slots ... is it a year of production thing ?
This thread has shown that 28 & 29 are the same and do not have slots in the side. 30 & 31 are the same and do have slots in the side. It has already been established that 28\29 windshield frames and 30\31 windshield frames are not interchangeable. At the risk of starting topic drift, you might want to find out if your rumble lid is 28/29 or 30/31. I believe they are different. Also the "grab handles" were originally put only on roadsters and cabriolets and were top bow rests for when the top was down to keep bows off of the paint and keep top from bouncing. Bows were tied to these "handles" with short leather straps.
Napa still sells butyl rubber windshield sealer. Comes in a tube, like caulk. Sticks like crazy. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I've not worked with "T"s,but "A"s seal dose slid into windshield frame bottom n sides,the small canel in the upright is only for keeping rubber lip from blowing at speed too inside of car{ keeping in mind that speed in a stock "A"was not above 50 an sure as hell not in the rain or snow. NO GLUING <<<<<
While this may be handy info, it has nothing to do with a roadster windshield to windshield post seal.
I don't try to use the seal between the stanchion an windshield frame on my roadsters because its not going to be air tight anyway. I think it looks better without it. I do use the bottom rubber but mostly to keep the windshield from swinging thru and to protect the paint.
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