Technical Installing motor

I installed my sbc in to my coupe, with a 200r4 transmission. My question is, do you set the carb base level, or the pan of the transmission level? Or split the difference.

Thanks, Pat

 

I always go with setting the intake level. HRP

 

I've always used the intake.

 

I checked, and the carb and trans pan are the same angle. The pan is easier to make parallel to the frame, you can often eyeball it and get it within a small fraction of a degree.

 

Carb level....phase the rear end....shims are available

 

I always set the engine level because I prefer that look, but regardless I don't think it makes any difference. The engine/carbs/automatic trans won't care.

 

the engine won't care and neither will the carb.

The working angles of the U joints do care,

and since one of them u joints is attached to the transmission , that's what you need to worry about.

 

On especially a high performance engine, the carburetor i.e. Float level is important.
During takeoff the float could make the air fuel ratio run rich or lean.

 

Every engine swap or hot rod engine install I have been involved in for the past 50 years we set the carb mounting surface of the intake level and went from there.
I found over the years that it is a lot simpler to set the mount for the trans where you want it and then level the carb mount than go the other way around.

 

It's not going to matter much more than pissing in the ocean will change the amount of water.

Wheel stands and landings, rear tire growth, instant velocity, drive line angles with straight blowers vs 3* intakes, rubber rakes all of those do not make much of a difference. Nor do negotiating grades or parking garages.

 

yup....don't make much difference. My Chevy II has a blower, so the carbs are angled back 3 to 4 degrees...but the trans pan is parallel to the rocker panels. Just like GM intended. I have no idea what the fuel does when it's launching, but it doesn't seem to bog, so I don't really care, either.

 

I have it already set with the tranny pan level. It makes the intake sit at a nose up of between 3 & 4 degrees. Which also makes the output shaft sit level with the ground. It looks like a lot more then that, but when I put the level finder on it, it's only really 3-4. I guess I'll just leave it like it is.

Thanks, Pat

 

squirrel,
I like you chevy II.!
I had a '62 2dr post 283, a '63 convert, 327, a '64 SS with a straight axle, Built 283, and a '64 hard top 327, and a '66 hard top, 327.
And I'll take another! There is a early '60's wagon, near me just sitting. Hmmm!

Pat

 

Tail shaft and pinion alignment is the most important. Intakes can be milled if angle is to much. That's how I go about it. And your U joints will thank you by not prematurely failing.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I think we need a sticky for drivetrain angles.

 

I like 3* because I do not run a Rake. It helps in my mind with air in the cooling passages and purging cooling system. That's just what I like and what makes me Sleep good @ night. Also I've had better Header Clearance running 3*.