Hey guys, I've been trying to get this Flaming River steering column to clear headers and having a tough time. I've had little to no help from Flaming River. This is a SBC 64' Chevelle. I've tried 4 sets. 1 cheapie mid length ebay, 2 pairs of hedman mid lengths, and now Sanderson which hug the block really close, but the rubber boot on the Flaming River steering shaft is touch the header tube. This boot is just covering the area where the column would collapse in the event of an accident. If that's the case can I just remove the boot, and perhaps put some heat shrink where it is, then a heat sock over it with metal zip ties, and a small ding in the header tube for extra clearance? I do not want to go full length headers, I've been trying all mid length, and haven't tried block hugger's yet, some brands may have more clearance in the center header tubes. Any advice would be CRAZY appreciated. I've been emailing Flaming River for 8 weeks and keep returning headers! Some help from the guys at Chevelles.com but no solution yet.
Headers are typically designed to fit how cars came off the ***embly line. But this doesn't guaranty anything as we've all ran into interference with everything stock. As Vicky pointed out the Flaming River stuff is bigger which would work fine for a SBC or BBC with cast iron manifolds. I don't know why you have a U-joint now but I'd use it to my advantage and move the column away from the header. It's that or cut and modify the headers.
^^^ Is there any need for a telescoping intermediate shaft? Also those header flanges are beefy, a set with thinner flanges and a 3/4DD intermediate could give you the 1/2" clearance needed. Am I correct in ***uming that you eliminated the lower OEM rag joint and subs***uted it with a similar universal joint as per the one on the lower column? If a push comes to a shove you could m***age the pipe or scallop it to provide clearance.
Shoot. You all have offered more insight in 3 hours than I've gotten in 8 weeks (Back and forth between other projects on my build) The collapsible column to me is not even needed, I'd have to drive off a cliff or into a tree to have the column and front end crush that far, someone's life would be gone either way! That's a dark thought. However, yes, the ragjoint was eliminated with this setup. I had called Flaming River, gosh their customer service rocks when you're buying something, but when you need to get it fitting... ssss.... another story The Flaming River rep had told me to buy this column, and a DD style U joint for the top and a DD style U joint for the steering box side (where the rag joint originally was) I believe, if memory serves me correctly it goes from 1" to a 3/4" shaft. If I can find a fixed something all the way down, non-collapsable in I'm guessign 1/2" or 3/4" it would be gold, without that silly boot on there. Keep the U-joint on the top, and matching U-joint for the steering box side (Current one reduced 1" to 3/4") or put a factory rag joint on, which I have and came with my Lares steering box. I just want to keep it as simple as possible, and ditch some of this stuff, steering isn't my strong suit that's why I bought what the dude recommended, Im betting with engines and electrical! The steering shaft actually clears now, it's just the boot that would roast and melt on the headers and rub. So if I replaced the shaft/column do I just simply buy a 3/4" DD shaft and cut it to size?
You may be able to rescue most of what you have. The inner of that collapsible/telescoping shaft is 3/4" DD. The outer is 1" DD. You can get a matching u-joint that is 3/4" DD on one side, and 1" DD on the other. If you separate the two sections of the shaft, you have all of the raw material that you need to do this. Just add a 3/4" heim steering support, for a whopping $10 (+s/h, and two nuts), and build a little bracket to hold it. Like so: You'd be essentially creating an "elbow" at the same spot where that rubber boot is/was: Cut those two shafts to put the joint where it is at least 1" away from the header.
You can use as many joints as you need, as long as there is one support per joint, for every setup over two joints. Here is one of my builds, showing three joints, one support, all to clear a motor mount: I have used as many as four joints, in an off-highway vehicle.
The looks great Gimpy! I will definitely go that route or just ditch the telescoping shaft and go straight down with this (or one a hair longer I need to measure): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-409418 I can clear the headers without that boot. The less joints and connections I have the better. You guys have been so helpful! Fine chime in about going straight. I'd just need the non-telescope shaft and to replace the U-joint on the steering box to a 3/4" as it's currently 1" on that end. Then i'd be steering?
Why can't he just dump the rubber boot? Isn't it there to keep dirt off the slide portion? Maybe i'm seeing this different than the rest of you guys.
Engines move on their mounts. Having a header impinge a steering shaft, even for a brief moment, could cause an accident.
" I had called Flaming River, gosh their customer service rocks when you're buying something, but when you need to get it fitting... ssss.... another story " Flaming River left a bad taste in my mouth a few years ago, by personal choice I no longer use their column's.
Good point, things do shift. So If I keep these current headers it sounds like there are 2 or 3 options here (2 being my fav): 1) Ditch the telescoping shaft and add a third u-joint to the center of the shaft, and a support bearing like Gimpy mentioned above, I've attached a better overhead shot, I think I would have enough space to add a third u-joint and a support bearing, it may be tight. I'd order these two parts: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-409418 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-700000 2) Dimple the header and use a straight 3/4" steering shaft - Provided there is at least what... 1/2" clearence (Sounds like a safe distance from what I've read????) I'd feel more comfortable going this route for a daily driver. (It sounds like some are working with tolerances as close as 1/4") 3) Least desirable... try a fifth set of headers and cross my fingers (They'd probably be block hugger shorties at this point)
Ha, yes. A full picture is much better. So I am removing the slip style shaft and going with straight 3/4" and replacing the lower u-joint from 1"/ 30 spline, to 3/4"/ 30 spline. Then calling this project done. Unless someone foresee's that setup unsafe. The only difference would be ditching the collapse column. A a thing about the one they sell, I had to cut off so much to make it fit my application it would only collapse a couple inches anyways, which is better than nothing I suppose.
It should be fine. Inspect the header tube regularly. If you see a mark on it at any point, put a dimple where the mark is, to give it a little more clearance. It will not affect performance.
Good tip, I'll keep an eye on them once I start driving this thing. Thanks everyone for the various methods, super stoked that I am moving forward with a solid resolve! Virtual beers on me. Or Kombucha if that's your thing.
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