Hot Rods '56 GMC on my drive,

Found a very complete, if a bit rusty in some really weird places, 1956 GMC 100. This is a truck that has been on my list for years and one finally showed up in the Boston area. Originally from Virginia it seems to have had a fairly easy life. Both the fenders are gone above the lights, I'm not sure why they did that as the rest of the fender is solid.
Needs brakes so it'll get a disk conversion. the Guy who sold it to me has a bunch of these era trucks and a full NAPCO set up on hand. If it were a long bed I'd be tempted to go that route but for now I'm thinking Posies lowering springs and a 5 speed.

 

Nice, the fenders always rust there and the 4th picture it does look like a long (8ft) bed, one other thing is it should be positive ground (gmc thing) unless it has been changed.

 

Fairly well optioned by someone who knew just what to order. Better show us under the hood, because no starter pedal or ''V'' emblems showing makes us wonder. The rust holes vary in different parts of the country depending on how sticky the mud is.
Lowering springs don't do the job on these. Dropped axle is what you'll need.

 

it's a GMC, not a Chevy, they had real starter solenoids on their six engines, didn't they?

56 would have either 6.5' or 7.5' bed length, I think. 8' was a new thing for 1958

The fender eyebrow rust is a very common northern thing, but not something we see down in the southwest very often. Something about salty roads?

 

Congrats - had a '56 with the factory 347 Pontiac & Hydramatic - here one in Calif

 

Bed is 7'6", long or short I like the proportions.
It does have a positive ground which made me look twice. Depending what I do for the motor that may or may not change.
this has the 270 (I think) with three on the tree

 

engine size should be stamped on the machined pad on the block, near the distributor. It will say 270 if it's a 270, etc.

It's a long bed, but that's ok...I've had my long bed 59 chevy for 40 years, I still like it

 

Nice truck! Looks really solid!

My 59 came from New Mexico, it has rust through on both sides where the fenders meet the hood.

 

Unless it's a "U.S" thing, it shouldn't be a positive ground. I've had a 55, a6 and a 57 GMC and they were all negative ground.

 

A very "low" optioned 56 for a big window in my opinion. Jimmys of that time were noted for their chrome grilles, head light rings, dash surrounds, 326" Pontiac V-8's and hydros, and stainless rings on the tail lights. Mine also had the stainless around the rear window and door windows for 2 tone paint. Backup lights and the stock rear bumper in chrome seem out of place. You are lucky the dash has not been butchered for a radio. Mine also had the Delux heater with all the controls where your fan switch it located. Always liked my 56 GMC. It's going to be fun watching you work with it. Please don't jump at ditching the Jimmy 6 unless it's totally gone. They have the torque to pull over a house. If you do the choice would be a big Pontiac to make it look stock. Have Fun.

 

Jimmy Six, keeping the 270 would be good if I can adapt it to a T5 (As I have one sitting around). Still doing a bit of research . The guy who sold me the truck has a 258 with a T5 and rear axle which he is willing to trade for the 270. Food for thought. Either way I have my eye on the dual carb kit that Clifford made which would be a great way to ****e up the drive train.

 

the column shift 3 speed is the way to go! if the rear gears are too steep, you can swap the rearend, you know.

 

Check the voltage on that thing - GMC offered really weird options, such as in some years 4 different charging systems - 6N or P and 12N or P. I've worked on one '56 ***led GMC 100 that was a 248'' & 6v positive system- leftover '55 ?

 

That truck looks pretty solid, coming from the Hillbilly State, and the tailgate looks really straight. Are the gentleman's NAPCO parts for a 1/2 ton?

 

Had a 56 350 Series grain truck....It was negative ground. My 59 100 Series is also a negative ground.

Be sure to check the inside of the roof.....Right above the windshield.......Both front windshield posts.....And the inner roof structure above the door openings, all for rust. If mice got in there and built their nests....LOOK OUT!!! If they didn't, it should be good and solid.

 

dentisaurus.I LIKE it!!!!!!Bruce.

 

The 12V , 6V thing is a bit odd. Definitely a positive ground, which is a first for me ( no battery installed). Soon as it stops raining I'll have a closer look under the truck.
Going to need to rebuild or replace the water pump, rebuild the carb, clean out the gas tank and fix the brakes. Should be drivable after that.

 

I believe they are


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Top of the cab looks pretty good. Thanks for the pointers.


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Never actually driven a three on the tree before. This should be an adventure!


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When I was a kid, it was very common...my 59 truck had it, neighbor's cars had it, etc. I got one last year (Edsel), it was a blast to drive.

We seem to forget that before everything had automatic overdrive, most of them had a 3 on the tree, and folks drove them everywhere, and didn't seem to mind. The funny thing is, you can still drive them everywhere, they still work fine.

 

If you want extra gears add an overdrive. On my 56 GMC pickup I did that and didn't use all the factory stuff. I just installed the cable to lock it in or out and a toggle on the column 3sp stick to put the solenoid in or out. I could actually drive it as a 6 speed even tho it was not advised to use 1st over. I used 2nd over all the time. With practice I got really good at shifting thru 5 gears and really screwed with guys and this was in the mid 70's.... Wish had that pickup back.

 

nice truck...what others have said...rust in the brows is a tri-five thing weather truck or car....funny big back window and a plain jane...but does have the factory rear bumper - in chrome - which is funny.....nice truck did I say...

 

Never come across the 3 speed overdrive transmission before, did a bit of reading on the web and it looks like an interesting idea. If I can find one worth having I'd go that way to keep the column shift. Say one set up that used a second floor dimmer switch for the on/off for the overdrive. Pretty neat solution.
First things first, brakes, I don't have any at the moment ( other than the hand brake, which works like a champ!).

 

If you use all the original controls for the overdrive, then it shifts into OD automatically, no need for any ****ons or switches.

 

I have a 270 (pictured at left) with an A833 ****** and 4-on-the-tree and a push-pull cable for reverse.

I am running a 3.73 and turning 1980 rpm at 60mph in OD. I think that if you really want acceleration and a bit more fun, that this setup would work better with a 4.11, but it is a great driver with the 3.73 and I get 16 mpg and still do a long accel to 100 mph so I'm happy.

 

Agreed! I dont understand why guys insist on adding toggles and trying to reinvent the wheel. A stock setup OD works really well as is.

 

Bought a 54 Jimmy years ago with a 248 and Hydramatic. Very nice running setup. 6v P originally, just reversed the wires on the amp gauge and put a 12v alternator in it for convenience and reliability (it was the '90's and I was in a hurry... being 22 years old and all!) and ran it all over Humboldt County

 

Well now I'm confused, everything I've read on the web about chevy 3 speed overdrives talks about a dash or floor switch to activate the overdrive. Some folks retain the kick down function and a few brave soles byp*** the governor. Did the factory set up not use a switch to manually engage overdrive or is this just what is done to use it in a non factory fitted vehicle?

 

I'm not reinventing the wheel. I just saying without all the original equipment, relays, swiches on pedals or carbs, etc. OD's can be made to work and work fine. I had a Saginaw 4 speed with an OD on the back an made it an 8 speed by splitting the gears using a toggle. It was the coolest car I ever had. Granted I did not normally use it but when I want Ed too I did...... It's called "hot rodding" ...