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Technical 1940 Ford starter button problem.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by thomasanonymous, Jun 14, 2017.

  1. Original 6 volt positive ground. I installed a new clutch, pressure plate etc. new gaskets in the motor and trans. When I was done and ready to start it I hit the ****on and... nothing. I hit the ****on on the solenoid and it fired right up. I took the starter ****on out and it pretty much crumbled in my hand. I ordered a new one and...nothing. I pulled it out and tried grounding the wire to it to no avail. I accidently left it grounded once when I hit the solenoid ****on and the starter kicked on and wouldn't shut off. What does that tell me? I don't know. I have a hard time wrapping my mind around this positive ground thing. It is backwards to me. Is there a circuit breaker or fuse that the starter ****on runs to? Any advice is appreciated.
     
  2. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,389

    Andy
    Member

    Sounds like the solenoid is froze up.
     
  3. paleot
    Joined: Aug 29, 2011
    Posts: 232

    paleot
    Member
    from louisiana

    The starter ****on on the older fords grounds the solenoid switch to make it start. If it is a single wire start ****on make sure the body of the switch has a good clean surface where it mounts in the dash.
     
    mrfliboy and LOU WELLS like this.
  4. 4dFord/SC
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 837

    4dFord/SC
    Member

    In addition to making sure the starter switch has a good ground through the dash, check that the wire connection is tight. I had a similar problem with a replacement switch and tracked it down to a loose connection.
     
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    And find a good original! Repro parts store switches are mostly garbage. Positive ground has NOTHING to do with this...put the battery in backwards and everything in the starter world would work exactly as before.

    Diagnosis here: Screw a 3 foot wire to that small terminal, put car in neutral if you wish to live, and touch loose end of wire to grounded terminal of battery. Starter should crank as you touch the wire down, stop cranking when you lift it. If this is thus, all is fine thereabouts. Next get a decent switch (used Ford one, maybe NAPA STB 1).
    Try touching the wire from starter to edge of hole in dash first, after cleaning that edge. Should crank. Then put in switch and try it out. Those switches are very simple, I ***ume what crumbled was the insulation board on the back.
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  6. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

  7. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,843

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yep--got a new repop one from a supplier--no good--out in the bushes somewhere. Dug in my junk and found an orig--all good now--2nd repop that was NG. Had the same issue with a dimmer switch-new from a supplier-hit the ****on and the cap end came off first time I used it and went flying over my shoulder-found a used one at a wrecking yard-all good now.
     
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  8. typo41
    Joined: Jul 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,571

    typo41
    Member Emeritus

    I got a repo switch and it blew apart on the first push
    Like others, I dug through the junk pile and found the original, with the crumbly ****on, and it worked
    Be sure you don't have fully painted dash at the ****on,, it grounds to the dash or your dash might not be grounded if fully painted.......
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  9. I cleaned all the connections. New solenoid. Made sure everything was tight. Nope. I tried jumping the ****on wire to the Positive ground side of the battery...nothing. I jumped it to the negative side and the starter ran and did not shut off.
     
  10. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 273

    MIKE STEWART

    I also bought a repo from Dennis Carpenter - pure junk . Found an original one - ****on a little cracked - but it works.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  11. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    You may well have a solenoid that needs power lead to small terminal (grounded base solenoid) rather than the proper early Ford one that needs the terminal grounded. Do you have a NAPA or Standard part number for it??
    You could either correct the problem or byp*** it by running an extra wire and getting a '52 Ford truck 2 pole ****on.
     
    46international likes this.
  12. Mac's part # 01A-11450. Thanks Bruce. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
     
  13. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 273

    MIKE STEWART

    I have the grounded original 1940 started ****on - used a Standard solenoid part number SS-587 - the local NAPA dealer could cross over this part . It has a single pole - the starter ****on provides the ground - I have this on my 1939 Ford - with 327 Chevy power - rewired the starter to this solenoid. So far - works good.
     
  14. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Does the Mac's part have a box or label with a manufacturer or number? From Mac, your only ***urance is that it is the cheapest solenoid that could be found and that no one in the process has any idea of what ground it has or should have...
    But your description of activation from the hot terminal on battery sounds it is the wrong sort.
    Again, on this stuff we are discussing DIRECTION of ground is irrelevant...you have a ground terminal and a hot terminal at the battery, and the solenoid does not care which is which...if it activates when you connect it to the ground terminal, it is acting as a '40 Ford one would. If it activates when you connect to the hot terminal, it is not for your application.
     
  15. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Echlin ST 53 is right, ST 56 for 12V
    Standard SS558 is 6V, SS587 for 12V
     
    MIKE STEWART likes this.

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