How much should piston rings rotate once installed in the block. I know you offset the gaps, but should they mostly stay where you put them when you run it???
Every motor I have built then later disassembled to freshenen up the rings have been right where I left them. I don't believe they are supposed to rotate.
Piston go up and down, not round and round... If you have rings that are rotating then you got some real problems on your hands...
Ok... that's what I thought! The f'in A'holes that built my short block (we'll call them Suck-E-Motors) screwed up that part too!!! 4 of the pistons had ALL of the gaps in a straight line 2 others had all of the oil gaps lined up and 2 had both compression rings with the gaps lined up No wonder it was burnin a little oil huh!?!?! I THOUGHT I was getting a deal, cuz with the cost of all parts involved, I only paid like $400 for all of the machine work AND assembly, but with all of the trouble I've had, I should trusted my gut and did it myself like I have every other time! I am now out WAY more money and time than it would have taken to do it right in the first place!
Here is how it was told to me / standard rings are good to .020 then you need to go to over size pistons & rings. If you do not understand how to get your proper ring gap setting, it is something you need to read up on and will find in any good motor manual. Offset your openings at least one quarter turn from the next ,for two reasions /first you will have weak compreshion in that cylender and next you will be pumping oil out of it. what breakes the rings are a number of things first is lack of lubracation causeing a ring ridge stoping the ring and snapping it thats whay you hone the cyl. to clean them up and next is to resize the Cyl. if it is egg shaped or the groovs are to deep get out by just a cleanup bore. When a ring rotates is useualy when you install it and find you need to turn the conecting rod a little to aline it to the crank before bolting the bearings and baringcap .