1952-59 Ford Dagels 1953 ford customline

PaddycakeFTW
hope this helps
Dan


I used 2 core supports added enough along the bottom so the core support was wide enough for the radiator and then shortened the side panels also added 1" angel iron to bottom of core support to add strength here is a shot of the support widened

finished




new bottom support that went from frame to frame


cutting off 3" from sides


3" from side brace bolts to the rear of the panel shown above

this shot shows the new side panel right side of car (p***enger) and where the pc were

2 more shot for referance


this shows the cut down side pc and the stock core support floating in the middle and the stock upper brace

this shows how to cut the bottom pan (lt green) so the radiator will drop in

here you can see the upper latch, hood lock support does not need any modifications



the core support but it was cut and widened 6" to meet the side panels you can cut it and bolt it to the sides and then fill the cut are with angel iron to fit
the new bracer across the bottom was made from 1x3 tubing and pc from the original support

 

That helps a lot, thanks Dan.

 

paddycakeFTW
If you need other pictures let me know. WE are pretty good in the shop of do***enting the builds you never know when you are going to be doing it again, the luring curve can take a long time.

 

well I still hate doing headliners no I am not an upholstery type person but when your cheep you learn how to do stuff you do not like First the bubble wrap was installed 4 years ago using 3m yellow headliner spray I sprayed both the roof and the bubble wrap and let it tack it has been in the Texas heat and cold and is still stuck



had to modify the wind lace

I can not stress this enough you must mark the headline bows there is a difference in them best way I found is wrap a pc of wire around them 1 wrap #1 2 wraps#2 3 wraps #3 ect. marking the with tape is fine if the head liner will be done soon I use the wire method on all ,life happens and time p***es and the ink fades.
Clean the rust off the bows you want them to slide freely in the headliner I install all bows starting from the back to the front clip the back where the rear bows land where it need to be (some headliner have wire from rear of car to the rear most bow) I pull it to the front and clip it again




this gets the headliner closes to where it need to be Most headliner will have the center line marked so center it side to side . these file clips work grate for an extra set of hands I use around 30 of them to do a headliner.

hard to see but I cut the Listing ( sleeve the bows go in ) up to where the bows start to flatten out at the top (I do not know if this is correct but it works for me)
starting in the center I work the headliner to the side 6" at a time right to left using clips to hold it
till most of the wrinkles are out then I will start at the center again tucking the headliner (invest in a headliner putty knife) as you work to the front kept the frond windshield tight Pull and re clip. Once the sides ar done I glue the front with 3m 8001 (yellow gasket glue in a tube) and re clip it . Let ti set over night.
most will tell you to do the rear next but there are no place to tuck the head line on the 53 at the rear it get glued so I finished the front first. next day trim excess and put in the gl***.


I will prep the gl*** the day before seams to help.


here isshot of the gl*** back in

some thing I have come across is if as you pull the rope of to pull the windshield seal in .
Tuck the rope back between the seal and the gl*** it hold pressure on the seal so it will stay in place as you work the rest of the seal



a compel shots of the front done back is not done at this point



there is suppose to be covers in the Conner if you for get to install there will be wind noise simple enough to cut and pop rivet some


I also made steel plates for the package tray and pre drilled the holes these will come out have speaker holes cut in them and reinstalled that way the card board package is not supporting the weight of the speakers


I started stretching the rear part of the head liner aging clipping it as I went till most of the wrinkles were out then starting from the center of the car to the rear glued (3m 8001 tube glue) and re clipping stretching as tight as possible then done the rear window and again let it set over night



there are still some wrinkles but most will disappear by the time hot weather get here

well that is enough to get you in trouble cloth headliner are more forgiving the vinyl




yep these wrinkles at the front corners where the sun visors go need more work but they use a tuck strip so they can be worked out for $135 I now have a headliner

 

got the side gl*** in ,the grill is painted, and inside window trim is in so its time to put the upholstery materials back in the car and push it back to the shed and cover it till the 59 ford is done.

Maybe I will get back on it by may next year. till then the rac****s . opossum, and cats cant get in it no more

 

well the 53 has been put to bed for now. other things need more attention



need to get this finished up and sealed goes in my model A



and need to get this



installed in this



trying to free up some floor and shelf space and get part installed where thy belong before they disappear.

 

From the "Sticky Faq" you may find this handy: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/anybody-got-a-y-block-in-a-shoebox.177373/

 

Thanks jeffb2 , I have read that one and all other I could find. Problem is I like pictures of the actually work . and good ones are hard to find usually just a shot of it done.

When I start this one I will be taking lots of pictures and will right it up. I got the truck pan , a t-bird pan and a stock pan. Got 2 engine mount kit with the car one sb chevy one sb ford from Jamco. both sbf , sbc are more common the a Y-Block. I figure I will start with the small block ford setup as the Y-Block and a 302 ford both fit on the same factory mount in my 59 ford.

Only reason for the Y-Block is, I built it for my 59 and carbs would not clear the hood so figured this would be a good home for the $3500 Y-Block .

I figured it was time some one done a build do***enting it and listing parts needed (that we can find nowadays) I wanted to do it with a 200r4 or AOD trans but cant justify the $600 for the adapter . so the 3 speed overdrive will have to do . Also doing a Volva ps box at the same time.

 

Since the y-block mounts in a 54-59 are easily changed to accommodate a SBF maybe a small modification would work in the shoebox to y-block swap? http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/49-51-ford-car-bolt-in-sb-ford-engine-transmission-mount-kit-2501cp/

 

done a little work on this past week putting some pc in the inside in

I think I will go with the rear rim combo I have on it now just need 2 ford rims for the front MORE MONEY
I always said I would not own a trailer Queen LOL, but I now do.

Not by choice I just do not have it running yet and there is a show here in town Saturday May 20.

So up on the trailer it will go







I need to find the front drip rail trim.
I have installed some on the side drip rail from 52 mercury 4 door Monterey I do like chrome one of my favorite colors

 

Very cool man, congratulations.

 

you better bring handout sungl***es or hope it is cloudyI would have thought orange would look like shyte.now it is getting closer I think it is beautiful. in my opinion.

 

the Omaha orange was shot over black so it looks a little more pumpkin and the cream really helped

 

I had some time while waiting for parts on the 59 ford so thought I would try to get the rear end and exhaust ****oned up

I did a truck arm type rear suspension to make it where I could change the rear tire on the road with a jack


the jolly joints and brackets are from blastic industries there actually made for 4 wheel drives there forged heat treated and raitted for over 5 ton work load there adjustable so it make it a breze to square the rear end.

the links ( truck arms) are 2"x2" x3/16" square tubing 64" over all length



strut rod from joint to opiset side is used as the pan hard rod ( like is use with ladder bars) air bag mounted 16" in front of rear axle where the original front spring pocket was


this setup allows a lot of articulation in the suspension



rear pads and ubolt is a drop kit for 67-72 chevy pu from speedway motors these are 1" I need 2" so will have to order the spacer the bolts are long enough


2 1/2 tubing and Smithy mufflers


done with dom tubing because I do not have the dies for 2.5" pipe in my exhaust tubing bender.

had to get Wheelsmith to make me some 8" rims with 6" back spacing who would think we would be paying $300 for 2 steel rims with shipping $120 per wheel plus $40 each to ship wow


I now have 1.75 " of clearance on the outside


1.50" on the inside so may also run a .115 shim between the wheel if needed.



car is set up where with the air bags dumped the rear axle will rest on the frame and the air bag, and shock are not fully compressed and with the rear dropped the shock stops the travel about .25" before the bag fully stretches out. I also moved the rear axle back 1.5" so it is centered in the wheel well
I think I may go to a 60s mustang gas tank the fuel cell now sets bellow the pumpkin
and yes I always wrap the exhaust it keeps the heat from under the car and helps the ac cool better and an added benefit if a pipe is to close to the fame or shock or any thing else no rattle

 

Nice work, I like it.

 

What an impressive build. Nice work!

 

Like the exhaust work, doing mine similar now. Thanks for sharing.

 

Great job!!!