I have a line on a 52 chevy 2dr bel air. Seems kinda cheep but was told it was complete. Minor stuff disassembled, but all there (radiator removed, few interior things take apart, etc). Even has a upholstery redone on interior. It has been sitting for some time, about 10-15 years inside where it was started up every once in a while, then outside under tarps for the last few years. The seller says paint is shot, but no major rust, and no serious rot (worse spot being on back fender under one of the chrome moldings). Other details: original 235 motor w/ powerglide trans, original 6v electrical, all glass and mechanicals (locks, window cranks, etc) are in tact and work. Anyway, on to the question(s). Im planning to look at the car while Im in the area for the holiday weekend. Besides obvious things like looking for rot in the trunk, rockers, and fenders, what other potential land minds might be hiding on this thing. Anything thats typical on these early 50s chevys that would be a good idea to look for? Is $1500 a good price for what Ive described? Im looking to make a project out of this, so minor things arent an issue, but Id like to avoid getting sucked into something with a huge major problem, especially if its a typical one that I could have spotted up front. Thanks in advance for any help. -J
no. thats horrible. where is it located? what's the guy's number? i paid 1000 for my 53, needs glass, interior, and rust repair.
Sounds like you know what to look for...but usually a small spot of rust under a molding turns into rotted out rockers, quarters, and floors. Lift up the carpet/floor mat and remove the sill plates and poke around with a screwdriver...I bet you'll find more rust if you look for it. Still, that's a reasonable price for the car even if you do need to fix the usual amount of rust.
If it's a Bel Air, then I agree w/ 53 Sled's assessment. Typical rust/rot on these cars is almost always behind the stainless ("chrome") pieces on the lower front part of the rear fender "bulge". It's rare to find a car from east of the Mississippi that doesn't have a hole in these places big enough to throw a cat thru. Also, the outer rocker panels are usually bad. And lay down on the ground and look up at the bottom edge of the doors... both inside the seal and outside. While you're on your back, check the braces that are part of the floor structure between the frame rail and the rocker. Check all over the trunk floor... especially down in the spare tire well. If this really is a Bel Air (hardtop model: no B-post-- if you roll down front & back windows, there should only be one continuous hole.), then the floors will probably be "tender" at best. Hardtops were pretty bad to leak once the rubber parts started to dry out and crack. Replacement rubber for door- and window seals is expensive on the Bel Air hardtops. Don't bother with the cheap stuff. There's a reason why it's cheaper. (Voice of experience speaking.) Get the goods from Steele Rubber or one of their dealers. Aftermarket parts and replacement/repair parts are pretty plentiful and easy to find. Just be aware that the Bel Air shared a frame with the convertibles, which is different from the regular coupes, sedans, fleetlines, etc. Some chassis upgrade parts won't work on these (like tranny crossmember adapters). But you can usually make this stuff yourself.... IF you know what you're doing. If you get into this thing, then pretty much anything you want to do to it has been done by a bunch of other HAMBers. Search the archives for any specific subject. I'll be glad to help myself, as I've done dang near everything on my 52 sedan at least a couple times over. (I've had the car for over 11 years and drive it daily.) Learned more of what NOT to do than what TO do.
If it is a Bel Air and half decent, it's a steal. If it's a sedan, it'd be a good price for a builder complete. Coupes are somewhere in between. Side trim is 1 year only and not easy to find. 302
thanks everyone, i really apreciate the reposnses and the pm's. i'll use this info when i check out the car.