I need to attach the filler neck to my gas tank. It was originally inserted and soldered to the tank, and extends up through the driver's side rear fender. I would like to solder it again, but the tank has been cleaned and epoxy lined, and soldering will burn off at last some of the epoxy near the filler to tank joint. Looking for alternate ways to attach the neck. I might cut off about four inches of the neck that inserts into the tank, which is a tight fit, and JB Weld it. This would avoid heat damage to the epoxy in the tank. I could then use a hose and clamps to attach the rest of the neck to the piece in the tank. Just not sure about the long term exposure of JB Weld to gasoline. If you gents have any suggestions on what to do, let me know. Thanks!
as long as it's not JB KwikWeld, it should be fine. What happens if you mess up the epoxy, does it start peeling off? I'm not a fan of lining the inside of tanks....
I am afraid the solder heat will make a bit of the lining flake off and get in my gas line. Not sure if additional lining would begin to peel off after that. I researched lining products very thoroughly and used what I believe is the best product out there. There are some cheap tank lining products out there, and to apply a lining correctly takes a lot of prep work, done correctly. I think that poor prep contributes to a lot of issues. People get in a hurry and try to short cut cleaning and drying before a careful application. Had great results on a previous tank.
JB Weld makes a gas tank repair kit, but it's for patching holes, not bonding something together. Their other epoxies won't take long-term exposure to gasoline (I've tried a couple of times), softening and deteriorating over time. I'd use a chunk of fuel-rated hose and two clamps.
maybe you could tin the perimeter of the tank hole. Then check the inside for any flaking while you still have access. Then once that's all good tin the neck and then fit it up and do the final soldering.
My 62 Chevy II fuel tank filler neck started leaking badly so I wire brushed it, sanded as needed, cleaned it with lacquer thinner then used regular JB Weld, it worked great. Fuel did not bother it, mine has a short hose between the fender neck and tank neck. I don't know how many years it might have lasted because I eventually replaced the tank and straps due to rust and age.
I used JB weld for that exact thing once. It was still holding strong and sealing it when I sold the car at least 12 years later.
Here is what I did on mine. Reconfigured the pipe then welded it the best I could but it still had pinhole leaks. Epoxied with jb kwick, installed with filler neck hose and clamps at both ends been over a year and still no leaks. Scroll down on this link. https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Replacing-the-Fuel-Filler-Door/
if you can get to the area to be soldered, there are products such as Bloc-It. it's a putty in a tube that keeps the heat where you want it.
If JB weld didn't work a round gasoline my intake manifold interior work would have failed years ago...
You might look at hardware for sink drains. They have a flange that goes in the sink and one that threads on from the bottom and hooks the drain pipe. Just pick one that is small enough to fit through the gauge sender hole and use a sealer that is fuel safe.
Is the soldered area in the tank opening accessible/visible easily? I have successfully tinned and soldered sheetmetal using just the BIG Weller soldering gun...not the one most stores carry, go to Amazon or whatever and find the one with biggest numbers. You just go about 1/4" at a time, and once you get going it becomes quick and easy because the next area is already pretty hot and you have a bit of a melted pool rolling along at the tip of the gun. This is with electrical solder, perfectly usable on clean and wire brushed sheet metal. Acid core solder scares me, strong possibility of future corrosion. Tinning a flange does not spread out heat much, and if worried just lay shredded newspaper soaked in water around ground zero. And once the flange around the hole is tinned and the neck is tinned, not all that much heat is going to be needed to do the joining.
Txcr13.I have used Red Koat tank sealer on several of my old cars along with the gas tank on my old Farm All tractors . I never had a problem with it. Like you said prep work is the main part and letting it dry good.Bruce.
I patched a tank that had a hole the size of a dime rusted through on the bottom of the tank with JB Weld. Cleaned and sanded metal good and added several layers of fibergl*** mat for reinforcement. Just a quick fix to try to get the truck running still holding 12 years latter. I keep thinking someday I 'll find a new tank.
You might want to think about this. Made for pretty much what you want to do. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/fueltanksealants/ps890.php Gary
Yep, I can get at it real easy, the tank is off the car. I have a friend who may have a gun big enough to try the tinning approach and will check with him.
Thanks, but I got nothing to clamp the hose to. I have a tank with a hole in it and a filler neck that came out of the hole. If I just had a neck on the tank I would be home free.
The area of the tank where the neck inserts has a really funky shape to it. Probably would be hard to get a flange with a small enough o.d. to fit into the area. I will do a search and see what's available that I could grind/shape to fit the area around the hold. Thanks.
If it is a flat surface this would work (link below is a Tanks product) http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...uct_id=85/category_id=166/mode=prod/prd85.htm Just a bolt on piece. I used it to relocate the fill tube on my Model A, and I bolted a flat (18 ga) piece over the old hole. Cork gasket works.
Tks. I got the dimensions off the website and will see if there is enough area on the end of my tank to mount it to.
Thanks again to everyone. We got the neck attached last night, by soldering it, using a very small flame and oxy/acetylene brazing tip. We had the metal real clean, but had trouble with the solder sticking to it. Not sure what the issue was. What ended up working for us was to tin the neck and the hole in the tank, ***emble them and solder them together. The solder then stuck to the joint OK. There was more heat involved than we wanted, but it was kept to a minimum, and the area cooled with a water soaked towel. I think there was a pretty good chance that I could have used JB Weld, but I talked with their Tech Dept and they advised against long term use of JB Weld in contact with ethanol fuel. But, a number of people have had good long term results with it.
The Jalopy Journal
