Technical Burning up pertronix!

I would just add that you make sure you have a GOOD ground from the engine to the chassis AND the body to the chassis.

 

Make sure your distributor is grounded as well!

 

When it comes to electrics, I'm as dumb as a bag of hammers. Two years ago I had the blower off for a rebuild, and swapped the points in my dual point Mallory for an Ignitor II. I used their coil, and wired it as the instructions said. I'm using a volt meter, and I have had easier starting, a bit better mileage, and not one problem in two years. Since the distributor is not accessible with the blower in place, I like the idea of not worrying about points.

 

Could put a gun to my head and still can't read a schematic, but good grounds, clean tight connections, I can grok that. Loose, missing, or corroded grounds cause trouble.

 

A lot of bullshit artists chiming in with just that.
It doesn't matter a bit how many amps an alternator or generator are rated at as either will only put out what the demand calls for. Meaning a 140 amp alternator is just going to put out what the system calls for to keep things operating and the battery charged, they don't put out a constant 140 amps nor does a 35 amp generator put out a constant 35 amps.
If the alternator is charging over 14.2 volts all the time such as charging 16 volts due to a bad regulator that could burn up the ignition and some other components. That would have to be constant and not just after fireup though.
Burning up any ignition component usually is due to a high resistance down stream from that component. Such as a bad HEI coil will cause the module to blow or another high resistance in the system will cause modules to blow.
If the engine cranks over good it is probably grounded right as far as being grounded back to the battery. The next step is that you have to have the components be grounded to the block right so that the current flow goes from them back to the battery. Lots of pretty paint on a fresh engine can play havoc with grounds.

I believe you said all the wiring to the igniton is hooked up correctly. A bit of a search shows that you have to wire the unit for the vehicle and engine you have. You also have to wire it for the ground system you have be it positive or negative ground. Looking at the wrong diagram could cause a disaster.

 

I'd put a good ground cable from engine to frame from cab to frame and ground battery to engine. Be sure connections are clean no paint or rust.

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"Let's switch his favorite Coffee to De-caff, and see if anybody notices!"

 

Of course the alternator won't put out a constant 60 amps BUT IT WILL PUT OUT AS MUCH AS NEEDED TO CHARGE THE BATTERY AFTER YOU DRAW IT DOWN STARTING THE VEHICLE. It only has to put out 32 amps for a second to blow a 30 amp fuse so it's best not to run it through one. The ammeter in the car isn't designed for higher current either. The alternator reads the voltage on the positive lead which is why it's best to be directly connected to the battery. The use of a large wire avoids any voltage drop and the fuse is protection in the event the alternator shorts out internally.

 

I used the accel module and their coil. The coil got so hot you couldn't lay your hand on it. They stated no ballast resistor. With the internal coil. I knew with that much heat something would go wrong. Contacted GMC Buba over on the Ford barn. He told me to add the ballast resistor are burn the coil and are module. I did add the ballast resistor and two years it's been fine.

 

I wish Bubba would talk about that. Coils get hot, that's what they do, right? If an ignition is drawing 5 amps at 12 or 14 volts it's going to dissipate 50 to 75 watts. I can't put my hand on a 75 watt lightbulb either.

 

I tried grounding the alternator better and switched back to point/resistor wire. I'm still cooking that 30 amp fuse. I got so frustrated I bought the American autowire harness designed for 63-66 c10's. It comes with a new ignition and everything I need. Now if this doesn't fix the problem, I don't know what would!? I'm just so sick of not driving it and I feel stupid for not doing it from the beginning... the next project is getting new wiring before anything else.

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Are you sure you have an internal voltage regulator and that it is working?

 

I don't know why people continually say you can't get Pertronix parts at the auto parts store; a cursory internet search found them at Advance and O'Reilly's. I've used them and they have never failed me. I don't have a dog in that fight, but I'm thinking a lot of this naysaying is just repeating old-wives tales that may have been true back in the '90s.

 

Yes. 100% sure. I took it to my friends shop where they specialize in rebuilding starters and alternators. We put it on his test machine, everything checks out.

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I have seen them too, but maybe not always same day availability... I'm am confident in the pertronix modules, I know a lot of people using them with no problem. I have a generic in our vw bus and it has been reliable.

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The problem is NOT with the PerTronix. If you are blowing 30 amp fuses, you have another issue and that is causing the PerTronix failures. You have an electrical/wiring problem that is the root of your evil.

 

What type of coil are you using? HRP

 

As they say, points will get you home.

 

Sounds like too many amps, I would suggest to use 1,5 OHM coil. Simple old coil...

 

I remember those days points and plugs every 10,000 miles.

 

Finally got the new AA harness in my hands and installed. It was so nice to work with. Anyways... back on the road with the Pertronix 2 billet distributor for now. If it gives me trouble I will be sure to report back! Thanks for the help folks.

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Yup! But now it's hard to find a set of points.

I've had nothing but trouble with HEI's. Never did trust an HEI.

Now, I really like the idea of the Pertronix 2 or 3 myself. I have one of each.

 

Where are you looking? That auction site has hundreds of them, for anything you can think of, from lawnmowers to tractors, cars, trucks, NOS for 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s.. It's easier now than ever before probably.

 

That's strange to me. I've had several vehicles with HEI with over 100K miles, one over 200K with no problems. Now I suppose one will fail tomorrow!

 

I gave up on points when I found out that the earth was a globe... lol Glad to see them go.

 

Maybe, but that's what a lot of people say about hot rods

 

I can look at a set of points and see if they are burned out or not. An electronic module I can't see anything but a plastic box that I have no idea of what's inside or how it works.
I'm putting a points distributor in the 5.o in my Linc, it might get a Pertronix later on, and it might not. Last 5.0 I did the same way, was still running the same points I had put in it three years before when I got rid of it, never had a problem with them.
I order mine from RockAuto.

 

That's a clean truck. I saw you cruise thru Galena Saturday night. Glad to hear the problem is rectified.

 

Thanks man. I decided to take a victory lap through downtown. I was just looking through your instagram and I found a picture of my truck from torque fest two years ago, right before I got it! It's a small world!

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