I am looking for opinions on converting a flathead Ford from a by-p*** filtering system as original to a full flow system. I have seen kits for about $150.00 and machine work is required. I have a good running Flathead that is 70 years old. Is it worth the expense and effort?
"Is it worth the expense and effort?" The answer is "NO", unless you are going to rebuild you engine into an all out race horse high performance 296 cu. in. engine. Besides the money, you have to remove your oil pan and install new lines to your pump and modify your block. You know what they say: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Must admit. I am biased as I don't even use a filter. Just change the oil frequently.
In my opinion, NOPE. If your vehicle is used like mine, in good conditions and with regular maintenance, I think the byp*** filter already on the car is better than a full-flow conversion. It filters out finer particles, and with the frequent oil changes these cars get, there should be no problem. When I was in high school, I drove on a lot of dirt roads; when was the last time you were on a dirt road? I particularly WOULD NOT tear a good running engine apart to add the "95% Full Flow" option. The 100% option, which requires modification to the oil pump itself would be even less desireable in my mind. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"! Of course, if going off-roading in the desert is your desire, ignore this advice.
Add me to the "not worth it" list. If completely rebuilding, then have a conversation about it. No way on a running used engine. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well IO already have it apart to bore and put a stroker crank in it. It will be a street hot rod flathead. Now what do you think about the full flow conversion? Thanks for the reply.
Has anyone seen the 100% filtration method that requires drilling a hole from the fuel pump pushrod bore through to the rear main bore? I've seen the tech explained before on HAMB or Fordbarn but I've had no luck finding it again.
In Tex Smiths book he shows how to do it at the oil pressure gauge port, drill and tap one hole and plug another Have did it and am happy.
If you want to do it go a head. I would agree with the others though in saying that if you change the oil frequently you should be fine. I installed the version that requires changing the oil pump and running the oil supply line out of the side of the oil pan. It is not an easy installation and getting the oil pan on is a challenge. My 40 coupe build thread shows the install if you want to check it out.
Well, since you already have engine apart I would install the new system. Go to www.fordbarn.com and do a search for "full low oil system" , "remote oil filter" and similar terms. If the heads you are using don't have holes for mounting the filter you may have to install it elsewhere. Also check out this thread. https://www.google.com/search?q=ful...e..69i57j0.11580j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 On the other hand I had a stroker crank in my " street" 8BA and it ran fine using the original oiling system.
I asked this same question to Mike at H & H when I was building my last 8BA, he said "P***". His estimation was it was not worth the drop in pressure on a motor that never had great pressure to begin with. I put well over $10k into my flatty so my money IS where my mouth is. Change the oil regularly, a lot at first. I only left my start up oil in the case for a couple of 20 minute burn ins.
Nope. It is ugly, and you have at least one hole tap to create shavings to s****e up your new parts if even a shaving or two gets in the mix. The experts I consulted for my new build all said "NO". the original setup does SOME filtering, it all gets mixed over the miles anyway, so no.
It's kind of like "my broker is EF Hutton, and he says..." Mike knows his flatheads. I made 343 HP on the dyno, not bad for a flatty. Thanks Mike! Flatheads forever! The only thing I change more regularly than the oil in my cars is the ice in my tumbler. Make your habit the same.
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