First time doing patch panels so be easy. This isn't a show truck but it's my truck. Welded in some patch panels for the door. Knowing what I know show I should of cut another 1/4" from the bead roll on the bottom of the door. My grinding disk was a pain to get up to the bead to feather it in. So in stead I'm going to fill it and make it look uniform. Friend that paints cars for a living told me about all metal and suggest it over the bondo I was going to use. At most in one or two ares there will be 1/8" of a inch of filler that's still a maybe though. I want something that I can feather out, sand and will flex. This truck will vibrate a good bit because of the motor. For the bottom of the other door I have these pin holes from sandblasting. He said I could use all metal and fill in these holes. The bigger one will get welded.
I would still cut the bottom of that door off and weld in new steel. You could use a filler, but that wouldn't be right and at some point it will have to be welded in with new steel anyways since the filler won't stop the rust. It looks like you did a fine job on the other door, this one will be that much easier now that you know how to do it.
Find another friend. You already cut out one and repaired it with a new piece, why not keep up that level of workmanship?
This panel isn't bad compare to the other one I replace. I'm assuming the blaster got a little to close in some areas. The panel I replace I could drop a flat head screw driver on it and it would go through the panel. This actually happen by accident but was a blessing. I will spray some converter through the access hole to stop and seal the rust. I started to weld the pin holes in the panel above and I didn't blow through any. The door I just did I couldn't lay metal on it with out blowing even on the lowest setting.
My .02 cents, when using panel clamps of that style keep the gap closer, spot welds far apart, grind the welds flat then weld another series of spots, grind, spot weld, I think you get the picture, replace the sheet metal on the bottom of the door, All Metal filler is good stuff but it still contains talc that will absorb water and continue to rust at some point
Jimmy, Thanks for that. I sprayed some SEM primer on the panel for when I added filler to in hopes stop any rust
All metal is good to put over a weld zone because it's water RESISTANT.....it will offer more protection than normal filler...and it goes over the weld...then filler to finish... Filling holes with it.....hack! We call it bodyman in a can...
ALL METAL IS JUNK! IT SHOWS HAIRLINE CRACKS AFTER CURING!STICK WITH A GOOD FILLER,I LIKE 3M PLATINUM.
Weld the holes up or replace the metal, epoxy prime then use regular filler. Sent from my SGH-T399 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
All of the holes showing above started from the inside. Any dark circle that you may see nearby is another pit ready to bust through. Any welding nearby one of those scale plagued pits that you can't see yet will send it into hyper mode where it will also come through in about a year or two. All those holes in the crease by the door skin hem are where leaves and dirt trapped the moisture there to rust. Anything that made it through to the hemmed seam is rusting from the inside out. So unless your friend is painting this for free, don't waste good paint/material money and labor money until the door is opened up like the last one for proper prep, inside and out. You have enough red flags there to show that more rust is on the way. Need some fresh metal.
He's not painting it, I'm doing all the body work and painting. I want this to be something that I built. He hasn't seen the panels, only of what I sent pictures of to him. I'm not going to ask him to travel all the way out here (hour each way) to tell me what to do. He's going to paint some door art on the truck but that's a ways away. Is there such thing as epoxy prime in a spray can? I've got to get the doors done and then start chopping the roof mildly.
Way to go guy65. Just for the record, nothing stops developed rust. Nothing converts rust. You can encapsulate rust but it is still there, rust. You can get rid of it through abrading. Now... if you coat the NON rusted ferrous metal before rust develops you have a good chance of it not developing . You have less than 8 hours in a low humidity condition to get a direct to metal approved product on that freshly sanded and clean ferrous metal. Have you ever heard the phrase "rust never sleeps?" You can believe it. Virtual same properties apply to aluminum.
Thank you. Yes I've using some Rustoleum to encapsulate the not so bad areas. The lower portion off the door skin I'm nervous about doing because it's so easy to warp. It would be best to do one panel but doing the two lower corners about a 4" wide x 3" tall area would work well to.
As an FYI if you need to grind a weld down that is up against a bead or body line you can take a zip disk on its edge and use that if your really careful with it. Its thin enough that you can usually get up tight where a normal disk grinder is too large.
Zip disk? Cut off disk? I've used the dremel with a reinforced cut off weel in hard to reach areas to grind the weld down. Example, the area where the door has a 90 degree bend on the where it meets the door jam.
I have a friend with a '57 Chevy pickup, had the requisite Swiss cheese door bottoms. After fixing them he soaked feminine napkins in motor oil and put them inside the doors to protect that from further rot.
The answer to this question is yes. You can get it at auto paint supply stores, or online from Eastwood. It's 2K: has a button on the bottom of the can that you "pop" to mix in the hardener. You need to be ready to go when you pop it, because once mixed, it has a 24 hour pot life, after which you have a can of solid material. Be sure to wear a proper respirator and cover your skin--it is nasty stuff.
IMHO All Metal is a joke. All it is is regular body filler with aluminum dust instead of polyester powder mixed in. It's no stronger, it's the resin that holds it together, not the filler. All it's good for is building up arm muscles, much harder to sand. Had a guy in my shop watching me do metal finishing and some lead work on a 32. Commented that the shop that was building his pickup was "metal finishing" it as well. I questioned him since I knew how rough his truck was and I knew the shop's reputation, it's when he told me instead of sticks of lead like I was using it came in a can like bondo. Yep, All Metal. After being pi--ed for a few minutes he got an education on metal work. Funny thing is the truck ended up part of a law suit, seems his "metal finishing" started falling out in chunks shortly after a high dollar Candy paint job was done. Glad to see your going ahead and doing it right with new metal. Just finish now with regular body filler.
LOL all metal body filler is called Lead. Mud is an accepted practice, in high stress areas most professional body men use Kitty Hair ( or Gorilla Hair or what ever they call it where you live). There is no reason to over complicate a simple repair.
You are on the right path. The side you are looking at with the holes is the good side and it will continue working its way out if not removed. One of my favourite tools for working in tight corners or cutting is a cordless Dremel with the quick change Dremel zipcuts. I bought the Dremel 12 years ago and have used it a lot. Along the way the Dremel right angle drill head was added to the kit and it is good for small holes & work in tight places.
Why do people use Exopy primer? To seal the metal or some other reason? I ask because I have some of Evercoat Super build that I was going to use as the base/filler/primer. Since it's not a expoy I'm debating it using it as the base coat. Thoughts? http://www.eastwood.com/evercoat-super-build-primer-gallon-4-1-56682.html Is Eastwood's stuff any good? They can be a hit or miss at times. When I refinished my bridgeport (avatar) I used macro-epoxy. I need to paint it to cover the bare metal up so it doesn't rust for sure.
I have used all-metal but usually only over joints I have welded. It can be a bit pricey and does appear to have a shelf life so I only buy the smaller cans. I have also found it a little tougher to work with. When using all-metal to seal the welded areas, I then prefer a lighter weight filler to smooth out and shape those areas. 20 plus years ago when I was first introduced to all-metal I used it over the many welded areas I pieced together to create 37 Chevy Kingcab Pickup. A skim coat of all-metal was used on the sides of my grille shell that had small pinholes and pits that were too tough and too many to weld. I also coated that area with POP-15 before doing finish body work and primer. My Son now owns that primered truck and the grille shell still looks great.
The benefit of epoxy primer is to seal the bare metal from moisture. I use Evercoat polyester primers all the time but not over bare metal, get it wet and the metal under will start to rust which of course leads to paint failure. I always put a good coat of PPG DP-40 down before the polyester on bare metal.
It cracks me up when people say PPG DP-epoxy is junk. They usually complain how poorly it sand and that thinner will take it off. Ignorance. My PPG rep recommends waiting 3 days before painting it or applying surfacer. It sure is a time saver on bare steel if the steel doesn't need blocking, just epoxy it and paint it... no sanding.
It probably has some epoxy in it. And I m sure it says "properly prepared" somewhere in those directions. I just like knowing I have a pure epoxy on bare metal. So no I would not use it on bare metal. I might use it if there was just a little metal showing here and there but I would not use it under 4000 dollars of product if there is a lot of bare metal.
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