Technical Rear Radius Rods AV8

I`ve thinking how to set up the rear radius rods in my AV8 project. I`ve many comments that the rear radius rods were weak and could break at the weld joint at the rear axle. My question is: what if I used the 40` ford radius as they were bolted to the backing plates and bolted to the transmission cross member(and here is where I need to know if this will work) plus run 2 rods from either side of the banjo rod to a connection point in the same location as the transmission cross member? Thanks
Richard

 

There are several threads showing something similar to what your describing , ***uming your running an open drive with no torque tube?

 

I believe the will work just fine if connected to the trans crossmember like original. I think the problem arises when split and run parallel to ch***is. I'm sure you will hear alot on this.

Pat

 

Rear bones connected to the torque tube.

 

Huh?
'40 rear rods were bolted to axle flange and the other ends were bolted to the torque tube.
'40 fronts were secured to axle by the perch bolts and the ball end pivoted at the cross-member.

Now some guys have taken a Model A front wishbone yoke and used it as pivot for rear bones (usually the stronger '35-'36 bones) along with added torque arm from the centersection to the forward end of one legs.

Four fixed arms all pivoting around the same forward plane does seem plausible.

It's an A/V-8, what's wrong with just anchoring them to the torque tube like Henry did?

 

He hasn't said if he has a torque tube or open rear.

 

If you got a open rear, you prbably should consider a torque arm along with the split rear wishbones

 

Sorry, I will have an open drive shaft. I do have a 40` rear end. I was thinking that I could use the original bones anjust separate them by 6 to 8 inches to clear the drive shaft and have additional support by running a couple rods off the rear end banjo to elevate the stress off the bones. Thanks guys.

 

A torque arm should be used. You typically don't need to split the rear radius rods as they were bolted to the bottom of torque tube.

 

Just get some Pete and Jake's Ladder bars and be done with it.

 

^^^^ I would rather use modified original parts then run to the new parts catalog.

 

If you've ever pie-cut front wishbones to adjust caster, you know that the joint at which the tube joins the casting is not particularly strong. You can get away with that on the front end because the worst of the shock loading tends to put the wishbones in compression, i.e. not trying to rip the weld apart.

The rear wishbones have the same weakness at the joint, and are made with lighter tubing than are the front wishbones. This is a problem for cars with no torque tube because the worst of the shock loading puts the wishbones in tension.

You might consider joining the heavier front wishbone tubes to the rear wishbone castings if you want to use traditional-looking parts and you're not going to use a torque tube. Better yet, use the front tubing and make a mount that captures all four of the flange bolts on the rear end.

I did the latter once, but after stepping back and studying the result, decided to go with a shortened torque-tube set-up.

 

'36 rods but you get the idea.

 

Can I get your email ?


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I was visioning exactly as the photos are showing. Great photos. My email is : rlberry@myfairpoint.net

Thanks guys for the additional ideas.