Hot Rods Bringing my 39 back to life

on the 35 to 40 chassis the fuel pump hits the front cross member right behind where the stock motor mount bolts to. That's why I had to change the cross member out because someone got real happy with a torch to clearance it for the fuel pump. I may still notch and box the cross member if I don't have to cut the motor mount all to hell to do it. if I go with an electric pump, it will def be a carter. I hate those loud ass Holley electric pumps.

 

So I have a set of the cheap Speedway biscuit type motor mounts that I was going to use for mock up with the Hurst mount. I noticed that they are loose as hell in the front cross member mount holes. I had planned on getting a set of Chassis engineering front mounts but I was wondering if anyone knew if they are loose in the stock mount holes as well? I don't like loose mounts, and if that's the case, then i'll go looking for original type mount biscuits. Any one have any experience with these?

 

Thanks for the update Jason. I still have the original flathead in my '39, and had good luck with the new Chassis Engineering motor mount biscuits that I installed.
-Ryan

 

Major progress made. Front end is all finished and rebuilt. Just finished up the fire wall repair, and got it in primer last night. The new 283 is coming together and I should have it all bolted together this week. Trans rebuild is planned for this weekend. I will have some pictures up this evening when I get home. Cant seem to get them to upload at work.

 

Looks great Jason. Are you using the '39 transmission?

 

@sidevalve8ba Yes i'm using the 39 trans on an NOS Wilcap adapter and the banjo rear. The car is in remarkable shape save for the scratched and chipped up paint. Everything I take off of it for the mostpart just needs cleaned lubed and reinstalled. The inside of the trans looks as good as you could hope for, NO moisture in it, everything all oily, no rust, and all the gears are tight in the case. The only thing I have found wrong with it so far is the sliding low reverse gear has on slightly chipped tooth. My pal Scott in NC has a new gear in the mail to me now. I have all the stuff to rebuild it and the banjo, so those will be done shortly and the drive train will be sorted.

 

Sounds great. I went through a '40 transmission a few years ago and found a great supplier then. Just thought I'd keep in touch in case you needed anything for that build.

 

Cool build. So ow do those fenderwell headers fit with the inner fenders? Just one of the many jobs to do on mine, so very interested in clearance, they look a little wide, but without the inner fenders on, its hard to tell.. Looking forward to more updates.

 

@neilswheels the headers fit really well. The don't come close to the tires and hug close to the cowl but not to close. As for the inner fenders. I will have to trim a few inches off to clear where the pass into the fender, however, they go right into the opening to let air out of the engine compartment. So I really just need to make the opening a little bigger.

 

So I am making some good headway and am shooting to have this driving by then end of Sept. Right now I have the gas tank out doing the toilet cleaner method. Front end is all rebuilt with F100 brakes. @titus hooked me up with some front tube shock mounts to finish it off. The 3 speed is out to be gone through and the 283 is nearly ready to be bolted together. Got a slick set of wide whites and some copper paint to coat the steelies and the motor. Fire wall is all patched up and almost ready for its coat of white paint. Finishing up firewall this week then the trans and motor and running the plumbing. Anyway here are some pics!

 

And some more. 5th picture down is the results so far of toilet cleaner In the gas tank.

 

Wow. Making some good progress.
So your not running grease shields in your front brakes?

 

I'm going to try it with out. I replaced the front hub seals with a double lip grease seal that should keep all the grease in the hub. he only reason im not using the shields is that they will not clear with the adjuster hardware I used. I made these auto adjust by using 53 to 56 F100 backing plates and hubs, 65 F100 shoes, hardware and adjuster kits. Also if you need new drums for your F100 brakes, you can get a set of early Bronco rear drums and they are a perfect fit. I rebuilt all the front brakes on the 39 with parts from Rock Auto, with wheel cylinders and drums it cost about 75 bucks.
If the hubs start slinging grease, then I will put the baffles in and swap the brake hardware out.

 

Nice job with the brakes man. I converted mine to original lincoln backing plates and brakes. But that whole f100 brake swap thing is killer. Hope the grease stays out for ya. Wish i had some auto adjusters!

 

Back in the 'old days' a number of vendors had the 'flatten out the motormounts on a 40
Basically a bend piece of bent metal welded in the notched front crossmember, unless you plan to go back to a flathead, you will never need them. I did mine with some found metal, cleared just enough for the fuel pump and a little more cause chevy pumps come in many sizes. and did the other side to match

 

More than bizarre, they even used two driver side manifolds. I think I like it. LOL

The engine looks pretty clean on the inside, it may be a keeper.

 

I was hoping so, but a few of the cylinders were pretty rusty and need an overbore. I got another 283 that needed less done to it to freshen it up. Should sound pretty good. With the speed pro version of the 097 cam.

 

Can't win all of 'em I guess. I like the idea of a 283, its a nice change from what normally gets done these days. With the 097 it should d better then sound good.

 

I kind of have a thing for 283's. I love the way a 265 and 283 sound. best sounding of the small chevies when put together with the right stuff. I hoard them I grab every one I can find. I think im up to 6 or 7 core motors now. Plus I know how I drive, and I could slam 350 in it way easier, but I think ill be breaking trans parts a lot faster... Plus its nice when some one says "its got a 350 in it.." and I can correct them, "no its a 65 283..."

 

I always liked the short stroke motors.

 

Man, I need some of what you're eating, front brake upgrade looks simple and cheap! I'm sticking with stock for now, but its good to know there is an affordable alternative to Lincoln stuff.,great progress! Couple more questions for you tho, what shock mounts are you going to use on the front end, are you running a stock axle, only ask that regarding header/tyre clearance, I have fitted a posie spring and super bell axle, so maybe sitting a little lower than you, so less clearance maybe. It amuses me that so many aftermarket headers aren't 'equal length', I guess it really doesn't matter unless your after those 'tenths'. I've got a w in mine, so was looking at making headers, but at the price these are, maybe I can cut them up to fit.

 

I am using a set of old Western Auto Tube shock conversion brackets. They bolt on in the stock location for the lever shocks and use the attachment point from perch pin to connect the lever shock link for the lower tube shock mount. Really simple and worked for years. you can usually find a set on e-bay for around 40 to 60 bucks. I am running a Stock axle with a reversed eye stock spring. But this winter I will be swapping to a dropped 35 36 axle and 36 wishbone. The 36 wishbone will allow the use of the 36 axle or most aftermarket dropped axles, while still suing the stock width spring without splitting the wishbone, making the entire set up a bolt in deal. With the exception of heating and bending the steering arms to clear the axle. There really is no tire clearance issue whatsoever. the primary header tubes enter the wheel well area probably 10 inches behind the tire, they never even come close. I had though about building my own headers but these just work so well and the price an be beat. If your doing a small chevy swap and using the original trans I would recommend getting an early Mallory YC or YL distributor. They will give you about 1 1/2 inch clearance between distributor and firewall compared to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch with a stock 58 up chevy points distributor. I just picked up a YL dual point for 50 buck and put a pertroinx conversion in it since I cant find a decent points for less than 80 bucks a set.

 

Lookin good, love those 39 standards! That exhaust is hilarious. Mount those on the garage wall for a permanent coversation piece.

 

I chucked the manifolds, now I wish I had kept them, they were just ridiculous. What I really want is a set of pipes like you had on the Varmit. I love those little kick stand lake pipes. Id try to buy them from you if you still had the car!

 

Like this? I've got issues getting the shock off, clearance on the drop isn't enough. Although this is a bit of a 'modified' affair. I think I need to go back to a bolt instead of a pin on the top mount, and am thinking of using 39 perch bolts to move the bottom mount over. I'm slowly getting a 348 and T5 in mine, but thanks for the info, its all good, and useful to anyone doing the same swap as you.

 

My brackets are a little different but the application is exactly the same. yes the 37 to 39 perch bolts should give you the clearance you need, but id just swap it out for a bolt!

 

If i wouldn't have found the pipes like I did, I would've had them made. A guy on instagram by the name McDonald Handmade (I think) makes any pipes you want out of stainless or not, and puts the ripples in them. Also, on the cheap, you could have some bent up out of regular steel and paint them white. That would be cost effective and still look cool.

 

That's what I was planning to do. I'll look Mcdonald handmade up on instagram. I have not had much luck finding the rippled pipe, that sort of just makes them..

 

Thought you may know someone who would want this car i just found on craigslist here in Eugene OR. Title says 1930 Ford 5 window rat rod!!!! Hahaha. Check it out. Looks like the best ratrod i have seen in awhile. $8500.

 

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I ended up changing the entire front crossmember out and not cutting it to clear the fuel pump on the 283. Running a carter electric pump in the rear. I also ditched the old chassis engineering side mounts I had planed to use as they didn't work well with the original trans. The moved the motor and inch forward.

Funny you should mention going back to a flathead.... I just talked to a buddy of mine and seems I just inherited a rebuilt 20 years ago and never run 8BA. I may go back to a flathead after all.....