Don't be frightened of the ****. I've been gluing alloy decks onto steel framed trailers for years [never had an issue] This eliminates the electrolysis issue by having a barrier between the 2 metals I also glued together a Galv sheetmetal trailer as an experiment. My glue of choice is a Bostik product "ISR 70-03"
This? From a guy who thinks an International might possibly be a traditional hotrod? Internationals were never used as hotrods
You can use a joiner strip behind both panels for a flush finish. Or "Joggle" [swage] around the edges for the same finish Even though I endorse glue ,there is a place for it. I personally think **** joins are best left for welding. By the time you factor in labour to swage the edges of the patch you could simply weld the panels. Glue does have the advantage of no heat distortion, and is usually sealed properly. I also glued fender backs into fenders on trailers. I used to plug weld them and then seal them to stop water getting in between causing rust stains. By using glue it joined it and sealed it at the same time [see photos which shows the swage also]
I glued lots of roofs, quarter panels and truck box sides on while in body shop. 3M says that a few welds are necessary to keep panel from peeling off in an accident. We did try to overlap some patch panels a couple times on old loaner cars. The patches showed up later just like has been said. I would never do it. As for removing a panel that has been glued on with 3M adhesive. It just takes some heat and a peeling action and it comes apart. That's why 3M recommended a few spot welds where they said. I will be using it to attach my drip rails on my A Sedan though. Sent from my SM-G900R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Me too, I'm still a little old fashioned in some areas. However, I can see where glue might work much faster and easier, like floor pans and trunk pans, and inner panels, etc. where it will be covered over with carpet or upholstery and such.
The drip rail replacement was a perfect use of the adhesive cause the area behind it was very pitted an thin. I felt welding it with a mig would cause blow through. All my other patch panels etc. were welded. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Not traditional? Perhaps, but I guess you aren't logging on through an Eniac connected to a Zenith TV either. There is a place for it, just like modern oils, paint, and even welding (otherwise you would be brazing), ignition, etc. It's funny how people are wary of technological changes bumping them out of their comfort zones. At work we are going to be running out a new computer system that is Oracle based instead of the clunky yet familiar POS that was proprietary to us. The geezers are worrying themselves silly and bemoaning the loss of the familiar format, while I go in the other direction and cannot wait for them to do the roll-out and make my life easier in the long run.
Good luck at work-each time we upgrade the system ( not a new OS but an upgrade to the existing software system) it seems harder to use, hared to find the basic system we need to operate and full of cute features that 99% of the staff won't use AND takes up way more space on the server.
I was very skeptical of gluing panels too, until I tried it on new floor pans in my 1964 Dodge 330 wagon. I used plenty of small sheet metal screws to secure the floor pans while the glue dried, then ground off any visible screw tips flush. Really like how well it seals the two panels and the safety of not setting the car on fire from welding.
What Dino 64 did and a few of you talking floor pans, not a bad choice. There's always a downside to doing new process stuff on old cars. As mentioned, the temperature makes it visible in hot conditions. Even if you **** joint with the support strip there's going to be a line on that 87 degree day at the car show so proceed with caution. Think it through. If excess mud shows in the heat why wouldn't panel bond? Well, it would. Dino's gig was the perfect application. Anyone who wants to wax on about how perfect a result they had then have at it. Just know that in general terms there's going to be a "tell" even under a coat of mud if you're considering it for external patch panels.
No don't think my International is a traditional hot rod it is just the truck that I have owned since 1978 and became my screen name, My 1930 Model A with a Y block is a traditional hot rod. But that does not matter in this conversation.
I've mentioned it before and I'll mention it again: is this a forum for traditional rods or a forum for traditional styling of rods? No everyone can find/afford what they could back in the day to build their '32, Model A, etc. So build what you want with no apologies to those who have a restricted view of what we all are interested in doing. Pics of your IH?
This one was nailed together when new, I think glue will be an upgrade. Lots of lap joints, but hopefully placed so they don't show. Like Internationals, Autocars aren't traditional either.
Murphy bodies were nailed to their frame work too. Hardwood frame that was also glued like fine furniture then a skin nailed over it. Thin layers of felt-like cloth were used to prevent drumming of the sheet metal in select areas too. "Coachbuilding" is as traditional as can be and inspired many a rod/race/custom builder over many generations. I never saw glue on metal but some heavy asphalt based sound deadener was fairly prolific. Not Dynamat though...
It certainly has a place when doing a number of things however in my view not rust repairs. 'Do it once do it right' IMHO, cut it out and weld the repair panel in and then treat /seal the area so it won't rust again by eliminating water and air. The product may ***ist those who I understand don't want to go through the process of welding repair panels in. I can't think of anything worse than buying a car and later finding out that under the shiny paintwork and underbody layer this was the way the rust was rectified. Maybe I'm old school and a dinosaur as this is what I did my trade in (Collision repair). Over the years like most of us I've seen some rough backyard (Shade tree) repairs and similar by qualified tradesmen who should know better.
I realy did not want to get into the traditional/non traditional thing if you look at my "quip" about this glueing thing not being traditional, I used the smiley faces. But thanks for taking up for the lonely International owners. My truck is NOT fit to be on this fourm but since you asked I will load up a photo.
Your truck is fine on this forum as far as I am concerned. Better then a 4 door 50's car, which were never traditional, it was mainly 2 drs back then.
Thanks for the thread. Great idea for gluing solar panel brackets on the roof of my non-traditional vehicle. Great place to learn "stuff".
Been in the cool 90's this week but last week had days in the 100+ range and no seams showing through so far. We have rollers on the bead roller that can make up to a 1.5" step flange so not much filler is needed. The always rusted rear inner fenders on an A were a snap to replace and don't show so this might be an area even the **** welders might consider. Left the screws in and ground flush here.
Original Corvette body work, especially after a period of several years, would often begin to show where various body panels and bonding strips had been originally ***embled. It was more noticeable with darker colored paint jobs. A 10 or 15 year old Corvette without these visible seams was usually considered to have been refinished or to have had some collision repair. Though by the mid 80s and newer models these seams seemed to have disappeared.
The Jalopy Journal
