I have a strange vibration/mild clunking noise guys. It only happens when I'm moving which would lead me to think it's a wheel bearing, axle bearing or u-joint, right..? Well, the driveshaft has zero play, and all four wheels, when lifted off the ground, spin freely with no noise or feeling of any sticking points. Also, the front wheels don't have any play when rocking at 12-6 or 3-9. I'm stumped. Anyone have any ideas?
It's the muffler bearing. Your car has one, right? Oh wait, we don't have any idea what car you have..........
I have seen lots of u-joints that felt OK on the car but were wasted when dis***embled. Dry, stacked rollers with no slop can be really noisy.
It's in a '51 Chevy (avatar pic). I put the t5 in about 2 months ago with new u-joints. I measured the pinion/output shaft angles right before I posted and they were dead on exact opposite. It vibrates from about 5 mph and up under power, under deceleration and in neutral, on or off the brakes
Could be bearing or bearings in the transmission. Being a T5 did you put the correct oil in it for the application? Some T5's use Dexron, some use synchromesh oil. KK
what is the frequency of the vibration? is it wheel speed? or driveline speed? or engine speed? (driveline spins about 3 times as fast as wheels roll, and is about 3 times as fast as engine speed in low gear )
Is the driveshaft yoke far enough in the transmission? Did you install the new Ujoints correctly, or maybe got the cups too far inward? Greased them up fully (don't trust the factory grease)?
It feels like when brakes start getting low and they have the vibration or slight grinding. It goes with what I'm ***uming is wheel speed. I have my brakes adjusted to where they're just off the drums, so they don't drag at all
I did grease them up fully before I drove the car for the first time. The yoke is exactly where it needs to be in the back of the trans.
I just hit the lug nuts with a 4 way and they all tightened up a bit. I used my torque wrench and hit them at 90 ft/lbs when I put them on initially, so I dont know if I just never re-torqued them or if I just made them tighter than 90. Gotta go on a test ride and see
It's still there but I've narrowed it down to the front end. I jacked up the rear end and let it run in first and second gear and I didn't feel it at all. Would the front wheel bearings act differently with a load on them? I'll have to wait till Monday to pull them out. This is gonna drive me crazy all weekend
yes, they might be munched. I only mentioned lug nuts, because I've messed up that way. I didn't expect you have the problem, because you would have noticed when you were wiggling the wheels around to check the bearings.
Are the hub and spindle ok? (and you might want to edit your post, you seem to have messed up the QUOTE brackets)
Yeah, everything is as smooth as can be, even the race. Advanced has a national bearing for $33 so I'll get one tomorrow. I wonder how that happened though? The ball bearing in that hole pushed through the outside of the cage, folding part of it back on itself. The balls all chewed up too. I can't believe it didn't screw anything else up
Why don't you convert to roller bearings ? Pretty easy to swap hubs... Just sayin.....lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did this happen "all if sudden"? Did you change somthing then noticed this? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Help us, help you. The more details the better we can ***ist you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Even if the race looks good on the bearing, it should be changed as well. I don't have any experience with those ball bearings except for watching my dad drive his Chevy home one day on a really hot bearing. Needed replacement BAD. Or my daughters MG which has similar front wheel bearings, and they are VERY sensitive to the amount of torque applied to the spindle nut.
I was a tally just thinking about that. It comes with the new race so there's really no reason not to change it
The acid test for bad front wheel bearings: Jack the car up and spin the front wheel, place a finger on the front bumper and the roughness will be evident, at least most of the time. A good bearing will have a smooth feeling, a bad one you can feel it grinding.
should not be any need to change to roller bearings...the replacement roller bearings for those are not like most roller bearings, they have a few large rollers, just like the ball bearings have a few large balls. Take the race out, make sure to take out the inner bearing and clean it in solvent and inspect and lube it too, and replace the outer race. And of course, take the other side apart, clean and inspect and lube the bearings. I'd do the dis***emble and inspect soon, so you know if you need to order more parts. The ball bearings will last an awful long time, with proper maintenance. Every now and then, one goes bad. Just like with roller bearings. It's just part of life.
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