Technical Reqest help with SBC cam selection

This is the pistons I used and my review at Summit. They wound up being .022 in the hole.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h100cp30/reviews/

 

Thanks! That's an excellent ***ortment of calculators. Absolutely bookmarked.

I had used the following calc to verify my miscalculation moments after receiving his last e-mail.

 

One other thing I remember from someone else on cam selection is what I normally tell folks about "Reality Street".
Somewhere, I read that on camshaft duration, at .050" lift, "Reality Street" duration max is at 225 degrees on the intake lobe, for economy. You can adjust up for more power, and the sacrifice begins on economy. Add compression as advised for fuel burn.
Fuel and air=what try to do-rubber=recycling and hybrid. It burns fuel and rubber= hybrid.

 

I used the L79 can in a 300hp 327 good idle could not tell and difference in the low end but from 3000 up there was quite a difference great cam for your 327.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies. I'll be sure to follow-up with results though it'll likely not be for a few months.

 

Hey guys, I'm back to use and abuse you some more.

Revisiting the cam selection process after a short hiatus and have a few aspects I'm hoping to get some insight on.

First off, just for the heck of it, I'm trying to determine what is actually considered the line between "aggressive" and "lazy" ramps. I'm curious if the value between advertised duration and duration @.050 could be a somewhat reliable indicator. Using the Comp Cams cards as an example I see the blueprint 151 displays 342°(adv)/222°(@.050), a difference of 120° while the revamped N+L79H displays 276°(adv)/229°(@.050), a difference of a much smaller 47°. Since all specs are derived from their cards I ***ume values are attained using similar methods for both cams.

What got me thinking about this were the suggestions to consider the 151 or 962 grinds. Unfortunately when I plug these numbers into a calc to figure dynamic compression I come up with a very low number hovering around 6.0 CR. Also, with such a large advertised duration I'm wondering just how effective advancing the cam by 4 degrees would be in helping to shift the power band lower than the 1,800-6,000 rating for the straight up 151/962 grinds? This advance would also help in raising the DCR but by an amount that is negligible (.10-.20).

Aside from the cl***ic grinds I'm still eying the Lunati 20701 or 20702. These offer most of what I perceive to be my requirements -- Keeping DCR between 7.5-8.5, overlap under 60°, LSA at 112 and duration relatively compact so as to aid a lower RPM power band.

Would be great to hear additional valued insight and opinions.

 

Use a Summit K-1103 or K-1104 as an example, or a Comp 4x4 12-243-3 cam. The Summit cam numbers transfer to Sealed Power numbers that you can buy from your local auto parts store if they carry that line. With the Comp Cam, I believe valve spring and valve guide work will be necessary and aftermarket rockers.
If your lobe separation closes toward 110, the idle gets choppier and vacuum for power brakes suffers, and the torque band rises in RPM compared to wider lobe separation.
Watch some Engine Masters videos on YouTube for some examples. I've done a lot of studying on this subject before I had the ability to watch any of those videos. Not saying I'm the expert, but after a conversation I had face to face with a Comp Cam rep, he said I was in line on my observations.
Want to get crazy with lift? Check out some of their marine cams for pleasure boats. The duration numbers are similar to the 4x4 cams, but the lift is quite a bit more, which again leads to cylinder head work. Boat engines are almost like a constant dyno when in operation. That's why many of the engine designers try their engines in a boat to test characteristics and life cycle...GM, Ford, Chrysler....
Just some ideas on how to gauge what would be better for the job intended. Pick your bullet.