Alright guys, I could use a good eye and advice. I’m getting rid of the IFS set-up on a fenderless/hoodless A coupe that’s been channeled 4”. I’ll use an old P&J tube axle set-up with 4” drop spring over axle. I also have a 4” chopped grill and radiator. I have a looong 460 up front. I just mocked it up. I have two problems: #1 the front needs to come down at least 2” for some rake #2 my short radiator (17" W X 15"H core) ain’t gonna cool the 9.5:1 460. It barely cooled the 9:1 351C. I have the crossmember mocked up at 106” WB right now. The grill/rad are installed in the typical holes on top of the xmem. This pushes the grill out 3” farther than normal, but gives about 2” clearance from the water pump shaft to back of radiator. I don’t plan on buying an axle with more drop or doing a suicide mount. I have to make new rails anyway, so I can sweep the rails up 2” to lower the front. That means the grill will be too high. Since I need a longer radiator anyway, I could mount it in front of the xmem. I can move the xmem back 3” (to a 103” WB), cut the firewall and push the engine back the same amount (that will mean I have to put an S-bend in the right rear header tube to clear the cowl - I only have 2/5" clearance now). I’ll have to deal with the lowered water outlet, too. First pic shows the mock-up ride height and grill forward 3”. Desired tire height is mocked up (29.5” rear, 25” front with boat trailer wheels!). The only thing that would change in this view is the front wheels moving back 3”. Does the grill location look goofy? How much drop could I get by removing a leaf from the spring? Any other ideas to get a decent rake and have good grill aesthetics?
2" dropped spindles... for the s bends I use the 90* turns from stairwell handrails, they are stamped and need the seam welded but are a thick ga. and bend very tight, 2 of 'em each side should do the trick.. my '30 coupe has 36.?? " long hood sides, I wanted to keep the firewall and be able to remove the bellhousing bolts...
Are those the radius rods you are using? I thought I've heard you should only use 4 bar set-up with tube axle to prevent bind. Reversed eye springs will get it down some also if you don't have them
It's a 4-bar. they are just sitting on each other. This is an old 70s P&J tube axle kit. It's a 49" axle between kingpins with a 6-leaf reverse eye spring pack. Spring perches are on 36" centers. I'd rather lower the ride height than sweep the rails, if at all possible. Once I sweep the rails, I'll forever have to run an extended grill location.
IMHO: For my taste, I think that your rear needs to be raised to where the radius of wheel well sits at the top of the rear tires (matches the curve). That also would give you some rake. But that might not be the look that you like. Just sayn. Bill
Yeah, I was going for a low stance. Looks like I won't get there without a lot of work or more parts. Spring-over-axle just makes it that way. Here's a pic with the rear raised 1.75", which is the next hole in the rear shock mounting bracket. It ain't low but it has a little rake. I still might take a leaf out of the front spring.
Your thinking correctly, seek help, plan, do it once Sent from my SM-G550T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Notch the rails and use a flat front cross member. Example shown although a piece of channel should work just as well.
channel is cool if you don't use a factory radiator... the left side of the lower tank dips down about an inch... the factory x member has a clearance divet stamped in it...
I had a similar problem. I had to mount my radiator in front of the crossmember in order to get the correct profile from grille shell to cowl. The radiator shop made the lower hose outlet flat and rectangular so it wouldn't take up so much room. The flat crossmember won't help unless you can notch the rails for the spring to travel upward.
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