Technical I'm thinking about buying Christine's less attractive cousin...

This '59 Fury is all original and supposedly has less than 18k miles on it. I know it has too many doors but it's all original and I always liked this body style. I talked to the owner and he said that after driving it 20 miles the oil light comes on when it's idling. Would that be a serious problem? I'm not looking to get a car that needs major engine work. It has a small V8 but I'm not sure what size. Has anyone else owned a late '50s Plymouth? I may take a look at it tonight so any input would be appreciated...

 

Christine was a four door in the book, so go for it.
But watch for self fixing fenders!!!!!

 

It could just be low on oil or a bunch of things, minor to major. If the price is right I would get it. I liked the 57 better but it's still pretty cool.

 

That poly V8 is a good reliable motor. The oil light coming on after twenty miles sounds like sludge build up that is being picked up from the pan. Pull the dipstick and check for thick oil on the edges. Ask about the maintenance schedule, with only 18K miles on it since 1959 the oil may have only been changed 6 times in 58 years so the oil could potentially have been in it for ten years at a time.

 

off brand

 

Needs dual quads.....and the commando 350 wasn't a poly but a for runner of the 361.....

 

Looks like a poly 318. The oil thing would worry me a little, id want to drop the oil pan and see what it looks like in there.

Or at least hook a gauge up and see what it reads instead of relying on an idiot light. If its just full of crud or maybe needs a new pickup tube screen, no big deal. But oil pressure issues can be bad.

Maybe see if you can take a valve cover off. If the underside is caked with gunk, that might identify the issue.

These cars have a strong following, even the 4 doors. If its clean and solid and runs nice, it could be a great car, and easier to resell than the early 50s models, or other 4 doors in general.

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Listen to it, how does it sound when the light comes on? Maybe tape the light over with electrical tape and run it. I would grab it myself if the $$ was right.

 

Those kinds of problems don't fix themselves! Plan on removing the engine to clean it out, new seals and such, inspect oil pump, bearings and maybe rings. Do a compression test first. Could be a cheap rebuild or an expensive rebuild, don't know till you look. On the other hand it could be the oil pressure sender. Like was already mentioned, the first thing would be a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what is really there, hopefully it won't start knocking too soon. Bought right and fixing it would be worth it, it's cool. You have to look at it as if the motor needs rebuilt though.

 

Pull a valve cover and have a look see. If, as said before, its gunked up, major cleaning is in order. 19K would tell me the seals are dried out and its gonna be a leaker anyway.
Oil technology has come a long way since 1958.
Those were wax based and tended to clog the arteries when not run enough to properly heat up the motor.
Drive to work, drive to the store, never got hot enough to melt the crud in the little places.
The solvents in todays oils are much better.
IF, theres no crud, the oil/compression pressure is good on a gauge, change the oil and see what happens.
Actually, a full fluid change would be in order anyway.

 

Lotta paint missing on that engine to be 18,000 miles in my opinion.

 

Back in 70 my dad bought a 65 Lincoln 4 door that did the exact thing, a trip to the auto parts store and a new sending unit later we were off and running for 3 yrs.

So I would check the simple stuff first, like stated throw a gauge on it and see what it says.

 

I have a 57 plymouth that I bought with 26000 orig miles. It has the 301 and never had the oil light come on but I would check the oil sender like mentioned. Could be sludge. Other than that good running cars.

 

Years ago, I had a Ford truck with 390cid that had the same problem. It had plenty of oil pressure at idle but as soon as you got up to highway speed it would drop. The problem? The oil return holes in the heads/block were plugged with sludge. It would pump oil to the top of the motor and then it would take its time draining back to the pan. I removed the valve covers and cleaned the p***ages out with a coat hanger. Was fine after that!

 

I agree. I suspect 118,000. I would agree that exterior looks good, but engine looks like higher mileage.
Farmalldan

 

Maybe the mileage actually rolled over?
Look over the pedals for wear, or to see if the pads have been changed

What I was thinking...may be closer to 118K?

 

You beat me to it. I'm always amused when anyone posts that a 50+ year old car has like 20K miles on the odometer. Could it happen? Maybe.... but highly unlikely. I'd want to see some history on it.

 

I'm with the sludged up guys. My father had a 58 that did the same thing. Super low miles with the old oil did that. Can you pull the pan and check the oil screen.

 

Lots of good relevant feedback from everyone. I'm also with the 118k & sludge groups. Still, those engines are known to perform well and go a long, long time. In terms of longevity, the Poly 318 is probably on par with the 225 slant 6 as being one of the most bullet-proof engines ever made. I like the 57s but this 59 is amazing. Besides, I moved to Oregon in 1960 with my family in a 59 Plymouth Sport Fury 9-p***enger station wagon. That car was heavy but would still chirp the tires with the old torqueflight. You need to buy that car.

- EM

 

If it's reasonable, I'd get it. If the motor needs work, just find a good 318 and swap motors. I'm sure 318s are everywhere. I would do it. I'm not a big MOPAR guy, but respect 'em.
Or make a sleeper out of it.

 

If you like it, why not buy it. You may be able to solve the sludge problem by warming it up, changing the oil filter, topping up with an engine flush. Run at high Idle for 25 minutes. Then do an oil and filter change. This will clean all but the most persistent sludge, and the process is repeatable. If the light is still illuminating, replace the sender. If it is still a problem, drop the pan and change the bearings. I have never done it on a Chrysler product, but I have done it on GMs and Fords with good success.
Bob

 

The car looks solid, not sure I'm buyin' the 18K from the look of that engine. I'd dig a little deeper, unless it's super wholesale pricing. Oil light could a simple fix, or not...

 

Dad bought a new '59 Ply wagon, it was our only family car until he bought a 1966 Chev Camper Special. I learned to drive in the wagon. Got stopped many times the first year before I got a'51 Ford. Back then the cops were a little nicer to a young dumb kid horsing around in daddy's wagon. They would tell me "Slow down & go home. If I see you out again tonight....yada,yada, yada." Any way, Dad bought Mom a new '70 Nova and sold the wagon to my brother in law. Dad religiously had the oil changed every 3,000 miles at the dealer, they used Pennzoil. When my BIL wanted to adjust the valves because of a slight ticking, he took the valve cover off and you could barely see the tops of the rockers and the valve springs for all the sludge that was there. He wisely replaced the cover and continued to drive it for a couple more years.

 

The seller is asking $10k or best offer and has no interest in trading for my '65 Bonneville so I'm going to think about it for a couple of days and maybe go look at it this weekend. Thanks for the comments and advice and if I pursue it I'll let you guys know what happens....

 

I bet he'll jump at $6500 cash fanned in his face. Especially with a possible engine woe. I agree that it would probably have to come apart for at least a good de-gunking and new gaskets.. and a Krylon rebuild.

 

It looks like the two '59 Plymouth taxis in this cl***ic chase scene held up pretty well with all the hard cornering while fully loaded...

 

I watch those movies and cringe. Remember, those were $50.00 cars then.
Buster Keaton said it all, without saying a word.

 

I know exactly where that was shot...

Those old Plymouths were a mainstay of the Freeport Speedway (Long Island NY) bomber cl*** about 1964 or so.

 

I'm in no way an expert on these particular cars, but I do have plenty of experience with allowing my heart to talk my head into a bad car decision.

$10K seems very high for a four-door with engine issues. As others have said, I suspect the odemeter has rolled over, and yet the price is apparently based on "less than 18K orignal miles."

Tread cautiously, and good luck to you.

 

To be honest, I love it, as long as someone else has it and isnt costing me anything to admire it.
If you like it enough to want it and be proud of it, That makes me like it even more (for you)