Technical Brake help before crash and burn

All I will add is that you must have a bit of free play when the pedal is "at rest" I've seen this many times and had it happen on mine before. If the rod/ rods are adjustable. Try shortening them up a bit to make sure the brake system isn't building heat ( which builds pressure) that can't be released when the pedal is in the normal at rest position. A return spring can also help with this sometimes. A collapsed line can hold pressure as well but will usually bleed off after a short time.

 

Thanks!

 

Heres some fuel on the fire Bendix style drum brakes are somewhat self energizing and require less pressure than disk brakes. Without a proportioning valve they will lock up quicker. A residual valve is used on drum brakes to keep the wheel cylinder cups seated to the pistons because you have springs pulling the shoes back they will over ride the pressure, disk brakes don't have that.

 

This is the kind of stuff we tend to forget in the era of anti-lock brakes...

There seems to be a lot of solid information here...

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/brakes-101.html

...Well illustrated and clearly explained.

 

You're right on that supposed Vette master, m*** produced for anything but a Vette. One size does not fit all. Like I said, I can almost guarantee that when I see a brake thread here it involves a not-exactly master like yours. The car would probably stop better with your drum brakes done over and add a '67 Chevelle drum-drum master under the floor.

 

Just pulled that one off the rack yesterday.


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OK, Innohry rotor run out is a condition where the rotor is out of "round" or loose, or something is moveing around when you are at highway speeds this creates pressure in the caliper forcing air into the piston area past the "O" rings now you have air in the system. So I cut my disc, and they were good but maybe not perfect enough, checked/ regreased my wheel bearings, and shimmed the brackets to center the caliper. now the good part I had to polish my stainless piston in the calipers and replace all the "O" rings. took me 2 years to find it and 2 hours to fix it

 

After reading all your posts I think you are capable, but because nobody else asked yet. Are your rear brakes adjusted up? The springs retract the shoes and then the discs bottom out before the master cylinder has a chance to pump enough volume to the rear.

 

Redo32! Thanks for reading thru my post and realizing that even thou I have low post numbers I'm not an idiot. Ha ha ha ha

The very first place I went to when all of this started was checking over the adjustments, lines, rubber lines, and pedal drag.

 

Is your proportioning valve a dedicated one or is it a COMBINATION VALVE ? I ask because if it's the latter you could have tripped the pressure differential valve and are now fighting that issue.

 

Have you verified the brake actuator rod is adjusted to allow the mastery cylinder pistons to fully retract?

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